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Mud River Matt

What Line To Use In Different Setups

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Ok guys. I pretty much use mono for everything. I am wondering what type of line should I use for different applications, like for jigs, cranking, spinner, exc.... I do use braid for throwing my frogs most of the time, but I hear about this line stretching and that line not and I just need some help. Thanks guys.

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A lot of guys throw braid for everything including cranks some swear by flouro for everything. Myself I use braid on all but 1 set up which has 17# flouro on it and it's another jig and plastics set up. I don't crank though if I did I would probably use a flouro on that one though. But for me it's 50# braid on most.

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It's all preference. Like me I use Mono for topwater poppers, Jigs frogs and possibly walk the dog lures braid, cranks, shaky, wacky, and anything else finesse flouro. Spinners and buzzbaits co-polymer. I might switched out every now and then but this is how I like me setups for I do have specific line brands I like. Like for co-polymer I love P-line CXX.

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Mono and FC are both going to stretch. The difference is that mono will bouce back and return to its original shape while many CHEAPER FC's will not. This is one of the reasons you will see many people say to buy a premium FC if you are going that route. Google Tackle Tour's Flourocarbon Shootout. It's very interesting, at least I thought so. They tried several FC's at various price points and the only one that returned to its original shape after being stretched was Sunline Shooter. Sunline Shooter is $35-$40 for about 100-160 yards depending on LB test.

Back to your original question, I will use 50LB braid larger jigs, t-rigs and frogs; 30LB braid for smaller jigs and t-rigs; 8-10LB Yo-Zuri Hybrid for cranks. I'll also have some 12-15LB Yo-Zuri Hybrid to use as leaders with the braid as necessary.  For the time being, I am steering away from FC because I cannot afford the stuff that really works and the thought of one bad bird's nest costing up to $40 is a little scary.

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Mono for topwaters, jerkbaits, other floating lures. Can also use for cranks and spinnerbaits, but Seaguar invizx and tatsu does well in that area too.

Braid for frogs only

High Grade Fluoro for everything else. You cant beat it. Perfect feel throughout the entire casting and retrieving process. Is great in the wind, works for all water clarities, doesnt dig, high abrasion resistance, it sinks, etc

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I use Power Pro 50# braid for my heavy cover apps like jigs and frogs. Everything else I use YoZuri 12, 15, and 20# depending on needs.

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Does yo-Zuri float? Meaning, can you use it for top water?

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I use braid for everything, and tie fluorocarbon leaders on as needed.

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I've always been leery of using Fluorocarbon lines after reading TT's test results on knot strength.  I grew up with mono, and still use it on the vast majority of my reels.  I do love braid for fishing in the slop.  I bought some 10# Fluorocarbon (cuz it was on sale at DSG).  So far I have been satisfied with it.  I want to fish jigs more this year and plan on having a rod set up with fluoro and one with braid to see if it makes a difference in my ability to feel what is on the bottom....and in detecting fish strikes.  Of course fish need to cooperate for that part.  :)  Bass fishing in my area really sucks, so the later comparison may be a complete bust.  :(

 

 

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I've always been leery of using Fluorocarbon lines after reading TT's test results on knot strength. I grew up with mono, and still use it on the vast majority of my reels. I do love braid for fishing in the slop. I bought some 10# Fluorocarbon (cuz it was on sale at DSG). So far I have been satisfied with it. I want to fish jigs more this year and plan on having a rod set up with fluoro and one with braid to see if it makes a difference in my ability to feel what is on the bottom....and in detecting fish strikes. Of course fish need to cooperate for that part. :) Bass fishing in my area really sucks, so the later comparison may be a complete bust. :(

While TT review is nice. It does not include seaguar tatsu a line very promising in just about every category. Furthermore, I have had 0 knot issues to date with FC. I agree that the cheaper stuff is problematic, but fluorocarbon itself offers slack line sensitivity and does not belly on the water or in the wind. It is a big deal to me to be able to feel slack line strikes and for my line to sink readily creating a more linear connection from rod to lure.

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IABASS8, thanks for the link. I think that is a great piece of information. Thanks a lot

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No problem.

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Whatever you do, make sure you keep if simple. I just relined ALL of my rods, heres what i did on my casting gear. Will reline spinning gear later. Note this is my first year using floro on cranks. I have always used mono on them.

Topwater and Jerkbait rod - 10lb Sunline Mono

Dock skipping rod - 12lb Sunline Sniper FC

Squarebill/traps rod -17lb Sunline Sniper FC

Frog/heavy topwater rod -50lb Spiderwire Ultra cast

Worm/Senko/finesse jigs rod -30lb Spiderwire Ultra cast

Jig rod - 30lb Spiderwire Ultra Cast

Spinnerbait/swimjig/hollowbody rod -30lb Spiderwire Ultra cast

2flippin sticks - 50lb Spiderwire,

flippin/swimbait rod -undecided...

2Crank rods -12lb Sunline Sniper

I use leaders on my braid when needed.

I used big game and XPS that i had laying around for backing other wise it gets really expensive.

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Does yo-Zuri float? Meaning, can you use it for top water?

How can I put this. It doesnt float like mono, but doesnt sink like fluoro. Yes you can use it for topwater, I have been experimenting with it myself on top with 12#, and so far I like it.

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Teal, what exactly do you mean by "backing"? I am assuming you mean spool so far with cheap line, then put your expensive line on last. Thanks for an input you can give me.

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Yes that is what he means

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Yup thats what i meant.

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Braid for mainline

 

Leader can be any other line of mono, copoly, fluorocarbon.

 

If you're limited on number of setups, this can be an awesome way around it.

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While TT review is nice. It does not include seaguar tatsu a line very promising in just about every category. Furthermore, I have had 0 knot issues to date with FC. I agree that the cheaper stuff is problematic, but fluorocarbon itself offers slack line sensitivity and does not belly on the water or in the wind. It is a big deal to me to be able to feel slack line strikes and for my line to sink readily creating a more linear connection from rod to lure.

 

This is the first time I have read that fluoro does not belly on the water or in the wind.  That makes me want to give fluoro a try on a few more of my reels.  Big line curves on the water are aggravating.

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Mono for topwaters, jerkbaits, other floating lures. Can also use for cranks and spinnerbaits, but Seaguar invizx and tatsu does well in that area too.

Braid for frogs only

High Grade Fluoro for everything else. You cant beat it. Perfect feel throughout the entire casting and retrieving process. Is great in the wind, works for all water clarities, doesnt dig, high abrasion resistance, it sinks, etc

X1,000,000

Hit the nail on the head

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So how much "backing" do you put on the reel and how much of the good line do you guys use? This sounds like an interesting idea that I may have to try out. So any more advice anyone can give me on this would be much appreciated. Thanks guys, Matt

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This is the first time I have read that fluoro does not belly on the water or in the wind. That makes me want to give fluoro a try on a few more of my reels. Big line curves on the water are aggravating.

Yeah and that belly kills sensitivity because the line is so slack and braid does not transmit slack line sensitivity anyways.

On that note, fluorocarbon will belly somewhat just not anywhere near the extent that braid does because the line is much denser and it sinks. Much better overall feel imho.

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Thanks a lot ENDLESS.

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