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  2. It does happen from time to time, especially if your throwing back in the pad fields. It has happened to me a few times, never intentional.
  3. I use floro for all my plastics, except when flipping heavy cover. Floro is clear in clean water, super sensitive, abrasive resistant, with very little stretch for rock hard hook sets. I don't like tying leaders. I am a devote line watch and often dead stick with slack for a natural fall, so being a line watcher is very important. You will see the line jump or move way before feeling it through the rod. It has worked for me for decades.
  4. IMO a 7 foot rod med to medium heavy with a softish tip would be about right. You need something short enough to easily work a top water, but long enough to move some line for bottom contact. Honestly I'd have a tough time not recommending a Falcon Bucoo SR. The 7 foot med heavy Trapcaster model is a rod that I originally bought for treble hook lures <1/2 oz, but I have found it to be a versatile rod for alot of stuff. It is light, well balanced, and more sensitive than I expected, nice handle length. Makes a great rod for 3/16 and 1/4 Texas rig weights. It is closer to a medium power than a medium heavy IMO, which lends hand to how well it can cast lighter Texas rigs. Not a fan of the grey foam handles, but they are comfortable and kind of a nit picky complaint.
  5. I've settled on a 7' for frogging. A 6'10" or 7'2" would work well too.
  6. Unfortunately I think it all depends on the user, and the ponds/lakes you fish. Everyone has a preference. I use to fish frog on a shorter rod and worked fine. I now use a 7’4” rod and prefer it. I spend a decent penny on it so the balance is good, weight hasn’t been an issue and I can bomb a frog twice as far as I use to be able too, hook sets are stronger, land ratio has been better! You can really move the fish with a longer rod.
  7. Either way, its a great looking profile. And i yes i could see that being a big PIA
  8. Spinner baits (3/8 oz), jigs (3/8oz), and t-rigs (1/4 / 3/16oz).
  9. Matt & Tim are accustomed to high end gear. Their average reel and probably runs around $400. So if they liked the SLX, that's coming from someone with high gear standards. Plus, anyone who has watched knows that both those guys are serious! I haven't used the SLX rod or reel, but I saw in a post maybe from a week ago that someone was selling the SLX combo for $129.99. So just from my experience with Shimano, the price range of the SLX rod and reel and what it's competing with, I would say it's pretty safe to assume the SLX rod would be one hell of a steal for only $30 if you can find it at that price -- and worthwhile as a backup should you buy something better later. I believe part of the reason you hear more about the reel is because like Daiwa, Shimano is one of most bass angler's preferred reel manufacturers. If you took a poll on who on these forums own at least one Shimano reel, I have a feeling that the amount of people who said yes would surprise you. But the number who said yes to owning Shimano rods would be more spread out as many people will use rods by other manufacturers that don't make reels, St. Croix, Dobyns, Megabass, etc. Oh looks like I made my prior post too late. Nice, I hope you like it.
  10. Today
  11. There was a spill at the Whiskey plant upstream and now all of the fish are drunk.
  12. Got a good buddy wanting a couple of these reels. I know they bring ridiculous money but he likes em. If u have any for sale in excellent condition and good working order lemme know. Thanks
  13. I agree. I just won't walk it in those situations, but if I have some sort of a boat, I'm usually taking it to areas where I don't need to walk it as well. I don't think you really need an extra fast tip. A fast should do (although that is subjective by manufacturer). An extra fast tip may be a bit of a broomstick, with with a heavy backbone you should have enough power to pull frogs out of whatever weeds you're fishing. Up until this year, I used a MH/F rod with 40lb braid. I don't have too many areas with weeds that were too heavy for me, and in the few cases when I found some weeds that were really heavy I just fished around the edges (and caught tons of fish).
  14. I use a 7' but it's what I'm comfortable with that matters.
  15. Thanks, I will try that. I use a lot of fluke trailers, keitech's and Lake Fork Live Magic Shad.
  16. NorCal WOW what an amazing catch congrats!! Biggest last night skipping and pitchin Keitech 3.8s around the docks last night.
  17. We were going to make it a wine cellar but we moved before I could start work on it.
  18. For bass fishing, I doubt you'll ever use more than 100 yards of line. The benefit of a spool that holds 140 yards of 12lb line is that you can still hold a solid 80 yards of 20lb line, but if you're running 12 or 14 or even 17lb, that's more than you need.
  19. I have used a 6'10" rod for the past two years, and that was about perfect. I would think 6'8 - 6'10" is the happy medium range depending on the height of the person using it. I would imagine most people aren't making their longest casts when fishing a frog as well, so the only downside of the shorter rod is you'll have to work harder to pull a big fish out of the weeds. I purchased a 7'1" H/F rod for jigs and frogs for this year, but haven't got to use it yet -- the water's too cold.
  20. You are 100% correct about the PM's, blocking a name/web site etc. on the main boards is fine but a PM is just that...a private message between 2 members and what's said between those 2 members is private and therefore the name filters should not be in effect...totally agree about that!!!
  21. I wade fished for many years and I feel your pain. It was in the same type of water you are describing. Good points have been made to this point but I'll add what I did. First, NEVER fish upstream against the current. Guaranteed snag 99% of the time unless you are an expert at bouncing baits while retrieving line. My casts were almost always straight across the current and making my retrieve so that I had minimal contact with the rocks as the current/lure swung to straight downstream. Once there I used a slow retrieve to bounce the lure back towards me. If I snagged, it was easy to just let out a little line and the current would free the lure most of the time. When fishing I would always wade upstream and work my way downstream throughout the stretch I wanted to fish. Resign yourself that you will lose some lures but when wading, you always have the option to go to them to get them freed without breaking off. Here's a little guide tip that will also help. Every once in a while turn over some rocks and send bait flowing downstream, hellgrammites, small craws and other bait that you will be pulling your bait through.
  22. Thanks Catt and everyone for all the great info, I have finished reading through all the pages!! Great insight into Toledo Bend and fishing tactics. My question is on finding "hard spots". What are they, why do bass like them, and how do you find them? Thanks again!!
  23. Could be your reeling them in and the hook is off center with the mass of the fish causing them to spin as you reel them in. Just like rigging a non-straight or crooked plastic bait. FM
  24. At the Poplar Creek ramp on Lake Gaston in Virginia if you fish the bridge you will lose your tackle. Now, the fishing can be great in this area, as long as you understand that you will lose your tackle. At American Legion Post 354 on the Historic James River in Midlothian, Virginia, there are rocks of all sizes under the water and you will get hung up and lose your tackle. But this is a great place to catch catfish and you have to put up with the aggravation of replacing setups. You fish where the fish are, which means in rocks, trees, shrubs, and in Chicago, dead bodies. As how to not get hung up. That is the $64,000 question. You can go weightless or Texas rigged, but you can still get hung up. When you find the solution please let us all know. In the meantime, just realize getting hung up is part of fishing where the fish are.
  25. 150 is a decent budget, and will give you a bunch of options. It's going to be tough to recommend a do "everything" rod but easy to recommend a do 'most things well' rod. What kind of baits/lures and weights will you spend most of your time throwing?
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