I found this in FAQ.
Why does it say "Fry” or “Minnow" under my name?
Those names are referring to the number of posts you've made on the forums. It breaks down like this:
0-10 = Fry
11-124 = Minnow
125-249 = Dink
250-499 = Short Fish
500-999 = Keeper
1000-1999 = Kicker
2000-3999 = Big 'un
4000-7999 = Hawg
8000+ = Double Digit
These are simply references for you to help identify how often a member posts messages. They are NOT status symbols. Frivolous posts designed to add to one's post count will be removed.
Not sure this is applicable to your inquiry.
You might need to directly supplement @Glenn with cold hard cash.
A-Jay
The paddle tail or boot tail swimbait can be a very effective deal for just about any kind of bass and in a super wide variety of applications. Not news. At this point its common knowledge that sliding one on a jig head can and does get bites pretty much anywhere in the country.
Whether it be a solid or hollow belly bait, small, medium or even the larger versions, these baits seem to have some serious strike drawing power at times.
I’ll start off with ‘The when’; and this may be the easiest aspect of this one.
Seasonally, as soon as there is open water here and straight through to hard water, I almost always have a swimbait on a jig head rigged up & ready to throw. This is the deal I’ll be discussing here and I’ll get to the where and how in a bit. But yea, when the local brown bass population is on the feed, they almost always seem fairly eager to choke one of these things.
Now let me get into some of my more common ‘where’ scenarios.
Right off the bat, the versatility of these things does lend them to be effective in a wide vary of ‘wheres’. So it can literally be one of those 3 feet to 30 feet deals. However for me, up in this clear water, regardless of season, time of day or body of water, a swimbait on a jighead is an effective way to cover water and it’s usually ‘deeper’ stuff.
I’ll quantify that by saying I’m throwing them up on to or off of mid lake humps, up & off points, as well as drop-offs and into saddle areas. Usually targeting bass in 10-20 feet.
Bottom composition and cover can vary but in super heavy soft cover (weeds) I am not probing them with this bait. I might swim one over and around it, but IME, they don’t fish very effectively through the slop. Great way to cover a big mid-lake flat though. Slow rolling one over the weeds can help find biters (and a bunch of Pike, unfortunately).
On a hard bottom, I like the lift & fall technique, on both a tight & slack line, as well as the cranking it along slow and letting it deflect; trigger deal.
On a sand bottom I am all about grinding the bait. Reeling it along in such a manner, and at whatever speed I need, to maintain constant contact with the bottom. This is one of my more productive approaches that also gets me a ton of by-catch; walleye mostly. A Football head is a solid choice.
Now for the gear, and it’s really nothing special.
I use spinning & casting gear, pretty much interchangeably.
Almost always using 7 ft Medium action in both blanks.
Spinning gear is done with 10-15 lb braid and an 8 – 10 lb FC leader.
And the casting gear is straight 10-12 lb FC.
I will say that the spinning gear is usually selected when I’m looking to keep the baits deeper, say below 10 – 15 feet and the casting gear often gets the nod in anything shallower. Incidentally, this is the same tackle I fish a tube with.
The Jig heads & Baits ~
There is a plethora of good quality swim baits and matching jig heads to choose from now. On line vendors literally list what seems like hundreds. I’ve fished a dozen or so types & brands. To keep it simple, I’ve pretty much settled on two; listed below.
I do prefer softer baits in the 3 to 5 inch size range, with something close to 4 inch being a big player. While clearly less durable, I seem to get more bites. Along with that, having the right action, especially on the fall, is a must for me.
When it comes to jighead shape, design and the all-important hook, again I like to keep it simple but here I am fairly particular. Brand Name is my desired direction but will go with a Lesser-known deal when there’s merit. I am eternally looking for jigheads with a quality medium and medium light wire hook that is also The Right Length. Too stout here can be tricky to sink on the medium gear I use; especially on a long cast or very deep running bait. Additionally, too long of a hook seems to ‘mute’ and can even over power a bait. I seem to get the best action when the bend is coming out the top of the bait no more than half way back of the baits overall length. More than that is No Bueno.
My favorite heads match up to baits when they only go in about a third of the way (if that makes sense).
Colors I keep close to the bait color and my default is just a plain lead, black or tungsten. Head shape & design includes where the line tie placement is located on the head itself. The right local will allow the bait to swim nicely, especially along the bottom and on the glide without forcing the bait to pick up unwanted & bite killing debris. A decent keeper helps; a couple of different ones work for me. In a pinch (meaning I ran out of a certain weight size) I’ve even used my tube jigheads with decent success.
Jighead weights range from 1/8 oz for the smallest and shallowest presentations up to ½ oz for the other end of the spectrum I’d say I use ¼ oz and 3/8 oz the most though.
Before I wrap this one up, I have two final thoughts.
First, a bait type that has been deliberately omitted here,
are the ‘pre-rigged’ deals. Not because they don’t get bites or that I don’t use them, because they can be killer at times and I do throw them.
Storm Wild Eye Shad and the Megabass Dark Sleeper are two of my favorites. The Dark Sleeper sees local action and the Storm bait is an international Rock Star performer for me. While I fish them in much the same way, I didn’t include them here because comparatively, I only recently started using them. For me they seem like a separate deal, one that I may cover in a future Brown Bass Tools installment; especially that Dark Sleeper.
And second, and I sort of hate to add this but it is relevant.
Virtually every bait I have covered in this thread, has accounted for at least a handful, if not more, 5 lb plus Brown Bass; except this one.
There are few things I enjoy more than adding a too close to the lens pic of a brown fatty to the end of one of these write ups. But alas, I cannot do that, because despite my best efforts, it hasn’t happened. Instead, what I will say and where I find myself throwing these swim baits the most, is to cover water & find biters. Done it a ton of times; plenty of 3’s & 4’s.
Can be especially helpful on new water. This style of swimbait is as close to a ‘confidence bait’ for me as I have. Pretty sure this approach has indirectly led to a few tanks, by showing me areas that the bass are using.
Strike King Rage Swimmer ~ Keitech Swing Impact FAT
Owner Ultrahead Football Jig Head ~ Owner Ultrahead Round Jig Head
Gamakatsu Round Jig Head ~ Dirty Jigs Tactical Bassin' Finesse Swimbait Jig Head
Instead of focusing on the differences between Green & Brown bass,
I've had a bit of success treating the brown bass like a separate deal.
In fact, I jotted down a few thought on it as it relates to the smallies I fish for locally.
You could see it here . . .
A-Jay
@Mobasser First off,
thank you for starting this thread.
It offered an opportunity take a little stroll down memory lane.
I fish waters that all have pike.
The bigger the water and or the less pressured,
the bigger the pike.
I've caught some decent sized pike from both my canoe and the Pro-V bass.
I rarely target them so they are almost always a by catch deal.
Sizable specimens are usually a welcome distraction,
snot rockets are just a Bait Wrecking PIA .
When fishing places that have a healthy pike population, I'll usually use a wire leader.
But not always.
And that's cost me a few baits, OK maybe more than a few.
I've posted pic & video of a few of my pike landings here over the years and
I'm going to add a couple here at the end of this post.
The first one is one of my favorite battles with a pike.
(I'll apologize in advance for the colorful language at the beginning of this clip)
I was in the Old Town on a late fall day several years ago.
The Pike was just over 25 lbs and came from a fairly small body of water.
I towed it to the beach to land it.
If you read my comments in this video you can get a little more info
as to what happened and why.
Good Times.
So glad to hear this.
While his medication is "helping" him, he still needs to do the rest on his own hard work, commitment and confidence.
And don't think for 1 minte that your love and concern for his well being went unnoticed. Including the tough love.
Thank you for the update and it sounds like this young man is well on his way.
Big fish on spinning or casting ?
We've all either done it or heard stories of crazy big catches on both gear.
And while mutants on spinning gear routinely seems more impressive,
it may not be The Best way to Go IMO.
I believe it's important to define what we're calling "Big Fish".
For me and for the sake of this discussion that would be
LMB over 10 lbs and a SMB over 6 lbs.
This sizes seems to challenge me the most from hookset, through the fight
and hopefully into the net.
I have only ever landed big LMB on MH & H casting gear armed with at least 20 to 25 lb mono/FC.
And knowing what I know now, and while I might be able to do it,
I'd never honestly fish for those big mouth beasts on spinning tackle.
It's feels like bringing a knife to a bazooka fight.
I have also been fortunate enough to land some very respectable
smallmouth bass on both spinning and casting gear.
As @WRB mentioned above, when the tackle is 'matched to the situation',
both are equally effective in my mind.
Finally, the biggest challenges for me when landing plus size bass on any gear,
is to have a plan to land the fish in advance of hooking up and staying PATIENT !
Fish Hard
https://youtu.be/UYTzJHDCdMo?feature=shared&t=882
https://youtu.be/o9xew3tWuuU?feature=shared&t=1014
https://youtu.be/W2jqCf7BVAE?feature=shared&t=18
https://youtu.be/c8ncmrbV3-M?feature=shared&t=615
I have Humminbird Helix units both at the console & the Bow.
I use the "Stand By Mode" when on the water and not using either.
Essentially puts the unit to 'sleep' including the transducer.
Super easy to do, it's like 3 button clicks.
Take literally less than 5 seconds to do.
One click on the power button 'wakes' it up and
it's back in full operation with zero lag time.
So running down the lake, bow unit is in stand by mode.
and when fishing on the bow, the console unit is in stand by mode.
Saves some battery juice at the end of a long day as well.
I put this one together regarding Night Fishing a few years ago.
Still most applicable' especially for bassheads that haven't done
too much fishing after dark.
Good Luck & Stay Safe,
IMO, you got you're money's worth.
The dirty little secret about spinnerbaits is
They last quite a while when you don't catch fish on them.
However the baits that do get bites - well, not so much.
Realistically, the best baits are only a step or two above soft plastics when it comes to 'durability'.
The game is, do I replace it or keep fishing it knowing darn well the next big bass that strikes, will snap it in half like the skinny fatigued little metal twig that it is.
Good Luck
There is a plethora of good quality swim baits and matching jig heads to choose from now. On line vendors literally list what seems like hundreds. I’ve fished a dozen or so types & brands. To keep it simple, I’ve pretty much settled on two; listed below.
I do prefer softer baits in the 3 to 5 inch size range, with something close to 4 inch being a big player. While clearly less durable, I seem to get more bites. Along with that, having the right action, especially on the fall, is a must for me.
When it comes to jighead shape, design and the all-important hook, again I like to keep it simple but here I am fairly particular. Brand Name is my desired direction but will go with a Lesser-known deal when there’s merit. I am eternally looking for jigheads with a quality medium and medium light wire hook that is also The Right Length. Too stout here can be tricky to sink on the medium gear I use; especially on a long cast or very deep running bait. Additionally, too long of a hook seems to ‘mute’ and can even over power a bait. I seem to get the best action when the bend is coming out the top of the bait no more than half way back of the baits overall length. More than that is No Bueno.
My favorite heads match up to baits when they only go in about a third of the way (if that makes sense).
Strike King Rage Swimmer ~ Keitech Swing Impact FAT
Owner Ultrahead Football Jig Head ~ Owner Ultrahead Round Jig Head
Gamakatsu Round Jig Head ~ Dirty Jigs Tactical Bassin' Finesse Swimbait Jig Head
In my world, the rod determines what a rig is used for.
Whether it's 'power' or 'finesse' sounds cool on video but is virtually meaningless in the big picture.
Lighter gear is finesse like and heavier gear is leaning toward the power fishing route.
I will match the reel to the rod and the size & type of line I plan on using and I'm done.
Every piece of fishing gear does not need to be 'classified' or designated to be effective.
Shrink wrap for outdoor storage has its pros & cons.
One serious con is that ventilation can be a big problem.
Trapped moisture causes mildew and mold, and polyethylene doesn't allow airflow.
Vents must be installed so they don't leak and there is sufficient airflow to prevent mildew.
There have been quite a few threads here over the years where boat owners are looking for
answers on how to deal with mold in their rigs.
It's rarely an easy fix and often keeps coming back.
Also if the cover should somehow 'fail' in the middle of the winter,
you're left having to solve that on your own.
Since most shrink wrap applications are completed in moderate weather conditions in a boatyard using a propane fired heat gun and flammable materials.
For most boat owners effective repairs are not something they tackle themselves.
Garage storage with or with out a regular boat cover may not be the perfect answer either depending on your deal.
But it's out of the weather and at least some of the 'extremes' can be avoided.
My objective is not to bring a wild, jumping & thrashing brown bass boat side.
I prefer to slip the net under a 'controlled' fish.
Doesn't always go that way but sometimes it does.
We all hate losing big fish.
Here's a clip of a decent smallie I got on a ned rig and an 8 lb Tatsu leader.
(Even though I say 6 lb in the video, it was 8 lb).
I was pretty sure on the hookset that this was a full grown one, so I took my time.
Fish took a lot of line (turn up the volume and you'll the drag working)
https://youtu.be/3OXnPQs0bqQ?feature=shared&t=61
Hello and Welcome to Bass Resource ~
I'm over in Otsego County but fish most all of the inland lakes north of rt 72 and up to the bridge.
Elk & Torch are both gorgeous lakes that have a decent bass population.
Mid July bassing can be tricky for a few reasons.
And you probably know what at least a few of them are.
My advice would be to be on the water early (think first light) and later (last light) if you can.
You may still have company but between those times the circus comes to town.
If it's calm enough, a topwater walking bait can get a few fatties.
And with some wind and especially cloud cover (which it looks like you may have this week),
I'm poking around a little shallower and chunking & winding something like a spinnerbait.
Good Luck and have fun.
I rig my soft plastic baits at the time of use, as needed. Not in advance so I rarely run into that.
I understand what you mean as I have in the past debated on what to do with trailers that are not ratty.
Leaving them rigged when I am fishing a lot, say for a trip or two seems ok.
Longer than that I worry about the hooks being damaged.
Especially on baits with heavy salt content.
While we're on the subject and it is the season in many areas now . . . .
Most dog owners know that you can’t leave a pet in a hot car. Temperatures can rise to dangerous levels in just minutes, putting your dog at risk of heat stroke. But what if you open a window a little bit? Does that make it safe to leave your dog in the car? The answer is simple: You should NEVER leave a dog alone in the car, even with the windows cracked. In some states, it’s even illegal.
According to the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), studies have shown that cracking a window changes these figures very little. A parked car with the windows cracked heats up at almost the exact same rate as a car with the windows rolled up, putting pets in serious danger.
All dogs are susceptible to heat stroke. Heat intolerant brachycephalic breeds (dogs that have a relatively broad, short skull), such as Pugs and Bulldogs, however, could suffer negative effects sooner than other breeds. If you know you’ll be on the road with your dog, make plans to travel with another adult who can remain in the vehicle with him while the air conditioner is running. This will keep him safe, and it will also reduce the risk of your dog jumping out of an open window at a rest stop or in a parking lot.
Hundreds of pets die from car-related heat stroke each year. The issue is so important that 28 states have laws restricting people from leaving their pets unattended in vehicles. Some laws ban the practice outright, while others protect law enforcement officers and citizens if they break into cars to rescue pets. I live in one thankfully.
Please don't cook your pet and call the authorities if & when you see it happening.
IME, when using 'typical' drop shot gear, I'd say no but
'skin hooking' is a real possibility as well.
Landing percentage on that deal can be 50/50 at best.
In the end, when I'm targeting trophy fish, my gear will be appropriate for the job.
There's always the rare 'Holy Smokes' hook up when not expecting it.
There's usually a lot of verbal pleading during those.
If there were bass living in the algae & muck on the bottom,
then I would definitely fish it.
But IME, there never is.
So I fish something that will NOT Penetrate it or sink down into it.
Like a heavy jig will;regardless of design.
I do fish a place that has a very soft bottom.
Lots of decaying weed and muck.
A light punch rig works fantastic.
Looks like a jig.
Fishes like a jig and even
catches fish like a jig.
But when I use a super light (1/8 oz) LEAD weight, a skirt & a style of plastic that
is rigged in a manner that allows the entire rig to "glide" over the bottom cover
rather than "Plunge" into it.
I get bites.
I would recommend calling Shimano Technical Support.
1-877-577-0600
I actually prefer the T-handle and have switched out several different Shimano 2500 reels
on which they were not OE.
Shimano was able to quickly & accurately tell me what was compatible
and what I needed parts wise to make the switch.
Was even able to place the order on the spot.
Good Luck
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