I need readers and have for a while.
All my sunglasses have readers in them.
I wear progressive lenses around the house.
They work well, took a while to acclimate to.
Still, not a fan only because I need them.
Rarely wear them outside - they totally kill my peripheral vision and I hate that.
Don't wear glasses to drive or shoot; unless there's a scope involved.
Right off the bat, the only split ring I use for anything is the Owner Hyper Wire. Size 2 for this purpose.
https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Owner_Hyper_Wire_Split_Rings_Black/descpage-OHWSB.html
My first choice for an actually ball bearing swivel, is to repurpose one off a larger spinner bait that's been fished beyond it's life expectancy - 3/4 and 1 oz baits mostly.
As for 'replacing spinnerbait swivels few companies offer actual ball bearing after market versions
that are small enough not to hinder the action/vibration of the spinnerbait wire.
Sampo Ball Bearing Swivel w/ Split Rings IS THE GOLD STANDARD in the category but they are hard to find and not cheap.
https://usatacklestore.com/collections/sampo-1/products/sampo-ball-bearing-swivel-w-split-rings-d-series-12-pc-bags
Accordingly, I resorted quality barrel type swivels and frankly I can't tell the difference in the water.
Blades all spin fine.
Here's what I go with . . .
SPRO Power Swivels: Size 10
https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/SPRO_Power_Swivels/descpage-SPS.html
Owner Micro Hyper Barrel Swivel: size 8 or 10 *****These units are Very Small.
https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Owner_Micro_Hyper_Barrel_Swivel_10pk/descpage-MHB.html
Hope this helps.
Fish Hard
I was taught cursive in 3rd grade I think. (circa 1967)
Mrs. McKinnon, big woman with a nasty attitude and a short temper.
I was not very good at it in the beginning and she would loom over me during class work.
Almost pooped my pants every time.
Between that and the multiplication tables, 3rd grade was a bear for me.
But I love her for it because I use both those deals every day.
#goodteachersrule
btw - my Mom & grandmother's hand writing was like art work.
Lynn's got that stuff down as well.
‘What size PFD do I need?’
‘Do lifejackets have a weight limit?’
These are just two questions (of many) that regularly surface when kicking off conversations about getting marine enthusiasts into the best possible PFD for their adventures.
Whether you have a specific activity you’re looking to find a PFD for, or if you’re wondering what vest best suits your height and weight, we’ve lined up expert insights from the engineers here at Mustang Survival to help you confidently navigate your personal PFD selection and purchasing process.
The answers to the ‘best PFD’ questions might surprise you - and it’s all based on science. Come along for the ride as we explain buoyancy, and how choosing a PFD comes down to two simple questions.
More info here ~
https://mustangsurvival.com/blogs/resources/how-to-choose-a-pfd
I use these.
They are currently on sale too.
https://mustangsurvival.com/collections/approval-rating_type-iii/products/elite-28-inflatable-pfd-auto-hydrostatic-md5183
Nice pike.
The Gamakatsu EWG Treble Short Shank 2X Magic Eye is a solid option.
https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Gamakatsu_EWG_Treble_Short_Shank_2X_Magic_Eye_6pk/descpage-GETX.html
I'm thinking size #6 on the small side & #4 on the bigger side
Might want to pump up the rest of the hardware to match it
(split rings)
Good Reminder @Mobasser
I drink H20 when on the water and try to keep myself hydrated all the time.
Helps prevent all kinds of not so nice deals.
And while it doesn't get Africa Hot here, not being properly hydrated can get sketchy.
When we know we're going to be on the water for a while,
proper hydration really starts the day before, and then simply keep it going.
Regardless of the season, but especially in the hot sunny weather.
Stay Safe
Big Fan of first light and have been for a Long time.
While I love the night bite too, most of my biggest fish (including my PB)
have come before or just at first morning light.
https://youtu.be/frJAlndpO7E
Next several weeks or so there's often a wide open very first light topwater deal at
at least two of my favorite brown bass haunts.
Doesn't last long but it's so addicting and so worth it.
Deciding which one to get out on is often the hardest part.
Love first light - it's a commitment.
I know what's ahead of me.
No trip to Mexico this year might make it seems a little longer.
No time to waste though, I'm headed to the lake right now.
Fishing Hard right up to the bitter end.
Need to go down swinging and a few fatties would surely be welcome.
And right now every lake has Views on Views . . . . .
I do.
Used it exactly one time.
Loaded it up and took it to Mexico.
2013 I think.
Flew commercial airlines here and in Mexico. Works fine but logistically it was a Total nightmare. Baggage handlers were freaking out. Almost wouldn't put it on the first flight. Said it was too big. Cost way too much, oversize fee.
Customs was worse.
You can have it, and I'll even pay half the shipping.
After the rather abundant, Pre-Spawn Big Brown Bass action here is in the rear view mirror,
the "Fall Bite" immediately becomes my next favorite time frame to expect big things.
It's another time when plus size fish come shallow again and are looking to eat - rather voraciously I might add. None of that is a surprise really and just about every basshead on the planet, knows it.
However, what has been a pretty big surprise to me, especially the past couple of seasons, is just how 'early' on our calendar this can happen; but please allow me to back up a bit.
For a long time, years in fact, my impression & expectation of 'the fall bite' revolved around cooler air & water temperatures much more than the date.
Well in advance of even considering vacating my hunt for big brown bass in the deeper haunts, and well before I secured the drop shot & spybait rigs, I was eternally waiting for that first 'bite' of cold air or those first few 'cold nights'. Traditional thinking says this is what is supposed to trigger the bigger fish to move 'shallower' and get them feeding. And clearly there is and probably will always be quite a bit for 'truth' to that. The Length of day may also be a willing participant.
Something we may all agree with is that not all the bass in the lake are doing the same thing at the same time. So is there a chance, that some fish big fish move in shallow and feed before the frost is on the pumpkin ? I'm here to say, Absolutely.
So while for years I was out deep, pretty much getting my lunch handed to me in mid to late August, there were some real brutes laugh it up some pretty skinny water, and I was none the wiser.
Fortunately, during a mid-day, super high sun, lunch time RECON mission, I happen to get lucky, real lucky. I was throwing a spinnerbait around way up on the inside, stuff I would have thought was far too skinny to hold fish, at least not the type I was looking for and not at that time of day.
As my bait passed by this isolated wood in less that 4 ft of very clear water on a huge sand flat, a 5 lb brown bass shot out and blasted it. To say I was surprised is quite an understatement - seemed a kin to getting a bass from Wal-Mart parking lot. It was that 'weird' to me. That was 6 years ago.
This is that fish catch . . .
https://youtu.be/EkCJNqul4lI
I thought, "this fish must be sick or something" Nope, aside from the Strike King Burner hanging out of her face, she was fat & sassy and seemed totally healthy. Had to be an anomaly.
Either way, I poked my face in there at sunrise my next trip and found the bass already in there slurping up every 4-5 inch yellow perch they could find, and there were schools & schools of them.
So Good.
Accordingly, I started looking insider earlier & earlier each season. And while no two seasons are the same, it appears that even the first or second week of August is NOT too soon, up here anyway. One of my local 'on land indicators' is when the 'ferns start to turn brown'. I've been capitalizing on this late summer deal ever since. Besides some of my best topwater catches, my PB Brown Bass came that very next year off that same flat; also on a spinnerbait.
So long story short, if you have an area(s), that come to life a later in the season,
it might not be totally crazy to check them out a little sooner.
This weekend, I'll be out (in the garage) in the Pro-V Bass ensuring all my Gear is Good To Go.
Got it ~
Sounds like you're on the right track then.
Maybe 'Power Shot'.
Using a 'Heavier than normal' drop shot weight. Like 3/8, 1/2 oz or more, on your drop shot with a bait that won't spin and twist up your line.
Dirty Jigs Tactical Bassin' Finesse Swimbait Jig Head,
VMC Boxer Jig Head
and
VMC Flat Shad Jig Head
IME ~ and as a general rule,
the softer the bait, the more the boot tail will move and at a slower speed.
Durability usually suffers but I may get more bites if & when slow is the deal.
I almost always want & need the bait to 'have good action' (or swim)
every time I kill it and allow it to fall back to the bottom.
Either on a slack or especially on a tight line.
That said, the jighead weight (line / leader size and the hook wire gauge to some extent) play a few roles here.
I'm always looking for the right 'match'.
Casting distance, rate of fall and how it swims (as noted above)
can all be dictated by the type of plastic (softness),
and the size of the boot tail as compared to the weight of the jig head.
Too light and the bait/tail has nothing to 'push against'
and to heavy a head can over power the bait completely.
When I get it right, the jighead will act as the perfect counter balance for the bait & the tail, which will enable the swimbait to have that tail thump and THE SHIMMY, which often times is the magic sauce.
I am very willing to admit that my 'skill' regarding strike detection while jig fishing needs work. Additionally, I'm pretty sure I would have a tough time understanding and relating to the differece of a take between smaller fish and a really Big Green Bass, until I was able to fish at a place that had them and eventually catch a few. My perception was that the big bass were slow, lazy and couldn't fight or jump very hard. Well, that's not the deal as I have been schooled by several mutants that I either couldn't catch up with after the hookset or that totally cleared the surface while relieving herself of my bait.
On topic and to your point, rod sensitivity hasn't been my problem as often times, seems there hasn't been very much to 'feel'.
I have used several different cameras over the years to video my fishing trips.
Started in the Old Town Canoe with a Garmin Virb and eventually went with GoPro's.
Compared to what's available now, the Virb is ancient technology at this point.
Currently running GoPro Hero 9 Blacks.
Best Gopro made so far IMO.
Does it all well and with a short learning curve.
I use a YoloTek Boom stick to mount a camera on the stern.
This enables bigger views of what's happening.
It's a telescopic NON Powered model (which I prefer)
However many folks use & like their plug & play powered models.
I clip a second camera to my windscreen up front for close up views.
I can get some decent footage & pull pic from either one.
I use only GoPro Branded batteries as my experience with knock-offs has been bogus.
The larger micro SD cards hold more data and faster cards
make everything better when it comes to editing.
(UHS-I U3 100MB/s Full HD & 4K UHD)
So 128GB & 256GB is the max my cameras with run, so that's how I go.
Amazon has decent prices usually.
I use Movavi Video Editor Plus 2021 to edit.
It's a bit more than I really need but I understand it and am adding a few new 'tools' to my bag slowly. Also, I enjoy using it, which once you get into this, is a good thing.
Things I've learned along the way.
I get out of this - exactly what I put into it.
The more on top of the video aspect of my trips I am, the better it works out.
Taking care of the gear pays off; storing it all in a padded camera case protects the investment.
Quality SD cards that are routinely formatted in the camera can help save heart break later.
At first it felt like I was 'wasting too much time' on the water 'fussing' with the cameras.
But after a short while, I had it down so setting up and running the cameras became part of the routine.
Besides purchasing the Pro-V Bass itself, capturing video of my fishing the past few years,
both locally & south of the border, has honestly been one of the most fun & gratifying deals I've ventured into.
Having video (and pulling pics) of some once in a lifetime fishing memories,
that I can watch and share over & over,
is well 'worth the effort' IMO and pretty hard to put a price on.
I'd encourage every basshead on this forum to seriously consider it;
can't imagine how you'd ever regret it.
I certainly Do Not.
I have used several different cameras over the years to video my fishing trips.
Started in the Old Town Canoe with a Garmin Virb and eventually went with GoPro's.
Compared to what's available now, the Virb is ancient technology at this point.
Currently running GoPro Hero 9 Blacks.
Best Gopro made so far IMO.
Does it all well and with a short learning curve.
I use a YoloTek Boom stick to mount a camera on the stern.
This enables bigger views of what's happening.
It's a telescopic NON Powered model (which I prefer)
However many folks use & like their plug & play powered models.
I clip a second camera to my windscreen up front for close up views.
I can get some decent footage & pull pic from either one.
I use only GoPro Branded batteries as my experience with knock-offs has been bogus.
The larger micro SD cards hold more data and faster cards
make everything better when it comes to editing.
(UHS-I U3 100MB/s Full HD & 4K UHD)
So 128GB & 256GB is the max my cameras with run, so that's how I go.
Amazon has decent prices usually.
I use Movavi Video Editor Plus 2021 to edit.
It's a bit more than I really need but I understand it and am adding a few new 'tools' to my bag slowly. Also, I enjoy using it, which once you get into this, is a good thing.
Things I've learned along the way.
I get out of this - exactly what I put into it.
The more on top of the video aspect of my trips I am, the better it works out.
Taking care of the gear pays off; storing it all in a padded camera case protects the investment.
Quality SD cards that are routinely formatted in the camera can help save heart break later.
At first it felt like I was 'wasting too much time' on the water 'fussing' with the cameras.
But after a short while, I had it down so setting up and running the cameras became part of the routine.
Besides purchasing the Pro-V Bass itself, capturing video of my fishing the past few years,
both locally & south of the border, has honestly been one of the most fun & gratifying deals I've ventured into.
Having video (and pulling pics) of some once in a lifetime fishing memories,
that I can watch and share over & over,
is well 'worth the effort' IMO and pretty hard to put a price on.
I'd encourage every basshead on this forum to seriously consider it;
can't imagine how you'd ever regret it.
I certainly Do Not.
I have used several different cameras over the years to video my fishing trips.
Started in the Old Town Canoe with a Garmin Virb and eventually went with GoPro's.
Compared to what's available now, the Virb is ancient technology at this point.
Currently running GoPro Hero 9 Blacks.
Best Gopro made so far IMO.
Does it all well and with a short learning curve.
I use a YoloTek Boom stick to mount a camera on the stern.
This enables bigger views of what's happening.
It's a telescopic NON Powered model (which I prefer)
However many folks use & like their plug & play powered models.
I clip a second camera to my windscreen up front for close up views.
I can get some decent footage & pull pic from either one.
I use only GoPro Branded batteries as my experience with knock-offs has been bogus.
The larger micro SD cards hold more data and faster cards
make everything better when it comes to editing.
(UHS-I U3 100MB/s Full HD & 4K UHD)
So 128GB & 256GB is the max my cameras with run, so that's how I go.
Amazon has decent prices usually.
I use Movavi Video Editor Plus 2021 to edit.
It's a bit more than I really need but I understand it and am adding a few new 'tools' to my bag slowly. Also, I enjoy using it, which once you get into this, is a good thing.
Things I've learned along the way.
I get out of this - exactly what I put into it.
The more on top of the video aspect of my trips I am, the better it works out.
Taking care of the gear pays off; storing it all in a padded camera case protects the investment.
Quality SD cards that are routinely formatted in the camera can help save heart break later.
At first it felt like I was 'wasting too much time' on the water 'fussing' with the cameras.
But after a short while, I had it down so setting up and running the cameras became part of the routine.
Besides purchasing the Pro-V Bass itself, capturing video of my fishing the past few years,
both locally & south of the border, has honestly been one of the most fun & gratifying deals I've ventured into.
Having video (and pulling pics) of some once in a lifetime fishing memories,
that I can watch and share over & over,
is well 'worth the effort' IMO and pretty hard to put a price on.
I'd encourage every basshead on this forum to seriously consider it;
can't imagine how you'd ever regret it.
I certainly Do Not.
Go into your profile and click open your attachments folder.
From your phone click on Account to get there.
Check to see if it's full or close.
You may have to purge a few.
A-Jay
I totally agree with this.
And perhaps my best example happens south of the border.
I've been fishing mono a whole heck of a lot longer than FC
(Decades as compared to just a few years)
Past several trips I've been using 20 & even 25lb Tatsu.
The class of resident bass there demands it.
Honestly, it's about as close to mono as anything I've fished.
Manages & casts great (with Zero line conditioner, not needed IMO)
With the right gear, Sensitivity is sufficient & long range hooksets are effective.
( with Hefty swimbaits & 1 ounce Jigs)
Once I spool my reels for the trip, it is SO Nice, and a major confidence booster,
knowing my line is good to go and will never be a problem.
Has contributed to helping me catch several brutes out of some pretty gnarly bushes
& up out of wicked line eating trees.
The lighter 10 & 15 lb Tatsu that I use locally, offers all the same attributes.
I only use FC on casting gear.
Amazon is routinely the best price on 1000 yd spools of 20lb -
(Wish Seaguar offered the 25 lb in bulk)
YMMV
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