wasabi_VA

I use a portable Humminbird 120 Fishing Buddy on my BassBaby but would like to upgrade to some better electronics. Has anybody installed a transducer directly to the bottom of one of the pontoons? They are flat on this boat, and in fact have a ridge on each side of the pontoon such that there is a recessed flat area. I thought this would be a good spot for a flat puck style transducer. I haven't bought any new electronics in years to know how they come. The traditional alternative is to install the L-shaped tranducer on the rear of the pontoon, but my BassBaby has the wheels at the back so I can't do this. I can't have the transducer mounted where it will hit the ground as I roll or drag the boat.

Hey guys. I need a new pair of fishing/polarized sunglasses for less than $50, preferably closer to $25. I usually find a decent pair on sale for $25 and am happy with that level quality. Seen any good sales?

Yep, dropped RD7466 twice while cleaning but schematic showed everything good and no issues getting it back together. A little tricky but doable if you look at what goes where. That said, still left with a sticky bail return. Im wondering if I be the all wire itself and that's putting a touch of torque on things. I tried to bend it tighter just a bit but doesn't feel like I bent it any. I. Los notice it is now hard to trip the bail with the reel handle when the spool is turned to a certain spot....

I love my little Sahara 750FB and have used it a lot of small ponds where I usually catch small bass and crappie. Today the bail did not want to close all the way so I had to set that rod aside and use another. Back some I disassembled it, lost a little spring several times , cleaned things up and applied a small amount of lube. Unfortunately the bail was still binding and I could not figure out why. Mechanically everything looked good. It sorta feels like the plastic bail itself is having a problem rotating against the rotor yet I know I had a good amount of lube on all contact surfaces. Any tips to troubleshoot this problem? Any common areas that wear out? Thanks!

My state requires me to have a wearable PFD and a throwable flotation device so I have to keep both oboard even though I fish small waters with my 8' Bass Baby. They take up a lot of room in a 8' boat and I'd like ideas to minimize the footprint. Currently they rest on the floor behind my seat and in front of my battery box in the rear. I rest my tackle bag on top while driving down the road to keep them from coming out. There is a small gap between the battery and the rear of the boat - maybe 5" max. The items are too big to wedge both in here although this would put them the furthest out of the way. I've heard some put them up under the seat - would love to see pics of that and how you secure them. Ideas?

used to be the boxes had an extra spool and instructions and even some lube. Now Shimano doesn't give much of anything like that for free. Not even a box! That said, PM me how to contact your friend as I'll take a $50 Symetre.

Too bad Shimano did not see the value in maintaining the forum. I can honestly state that I became a Shimano purist due to this forum, purchasing at least 4 Shimano reels in the past year. It would not have happened without this forum. I hope they change their mind and come back.

Superglue works great for me

Wilderness Systems Ride 135

My old old Schumacher was becoming untrustworthy so I bought one of these Vectors. I LOVE it. Has Smart circuitry to charge properly and at the apprpriate level of charge. Shop around. You want one that can charge at 30 amps, then reduce down to a trickle. http://www.rvtoyoutlet.com/c-electronics/p-RVVEC1097A.html

I own 2 Saharas and love them. You have the latest model which is even better. You have a great combo - only the fish are gonna complain!

dmac14 - how old was your combo? And was it as easy as calling the extended warranty company and they sent you a gift card? Or did you take it back to the store? I'm refering to the extended warrnty where you have to contact the warrnty company.

Thinking of getting a St. Croix rod for about $100 at Dick's. Usually I don't pay this much for a rod. I'm considering the extra $11 they want for a 1 year no-fault rod warranty. Fella there said doesn't matter if I break it or what - call the number they give me and the warranty company will send me a gift certificate card to replace it. Sounds like a decent warranty of it is actually that easy. He said the St. Croix warranty is only for defects and you have to box up and ship the rod back to them first. Anybody used the Dick's rod warranty?

It is not rough or pitted, but since it is only 6 months old it is possible it is heading in that direction. I've only recently noticed this. My concern is that I perhaps have a defect in either materials or protective coating(?) or even an internal problem with the wiring/motor that could be causing this. Unfortunately I live in the stick and the nearest repair facility is over a mountain range and an hour away.

My 6 month old Motorguide Bulldog shaft appears to be corroding, although it is supposed to stainless steel. It looks more like aluminum that has come in contact with a caustic subsrtance. I'm not sure how to explain what I am seeing and hope the pictures better explain. It also looks like how some metals discolor when they have been heated up - although I am not aware of any issues. The motor worked fine yesterday. Always in fresh water, never salt. Has anybody seen a stainless shaft do this? I thought maybe it could be water getting up under some kind of clear protective coating but a closer inspection doesn't look like this is the case. I don't recall any of my past trolling motors doing it.

My Lowrance iFinder was IPX7 waterproof certified. It was rained on one day and stopped working. Just rain. Lowrance said it was "out of warranty" and offered to sell me a new one.

I have that exact kit. The smallest rod tip it comes with was still too big for my rod blank so I had to use a micrometer to find out my blank size at the tip and order one off eBay. Once it arrives I know I can glue it on, I just do not know how to get a good epoxy bead so the joint between the new tip and rod is smooth. I'm sure I'll make a mess of it.

Depends. If you watch your line to detect subtle bites, hi-vis helps. Otherwise no need to do it.

Hmmmm, sounds like more than I have the interest to pursue. But I do want to change out the tip which I can handle at a basic level. I just used a digital micrometer and it says my actual rod tip diameter (with tip removed) is 1.6mm. Is there an aftermarket Fuji tip I can get (maybe eBay) to glue back on? Then, once I glue it on, how do I finish it so my fishing line does not catch on the barrel of the new tip? My previous tip, and all my other rods, have a nice smooth transition here that I wil not be able to replicate so perfectly. I do not have any rod repair materials other than tip repair glue. Thanks, I appreciate the advice!

I have a 6' Daiwa Megaforce spinning rod. It came with these thin stainless steel guides that I don't think I like, altough I otherwise like the action and handling. I am definately going to replace the tip as it seems to increase tangling due to the design, especially when dockshooting for crappie. How much effort is it to replace the other guides? I have never done more than a tip repair.

It still feels more natural to split the reel base with my fingers - after 30 years of fishing it is still tough to break. I guess my delimma is finding a decent rod with one that long. I have a Diawa that feels reel good just holding the fore grip but it has cheap guides so is not a good rod overall. I can't find a decent rod (~$50 to $60 for me) with the same length foregrip. I think it is like 3" and fills my average hand pretty good.

OK, I understand Fore Grip Length refers to the section of handle above the spinning reel seat. I recently switched my fishing style to where I hold the rod and work my baits holding the rod with the fore grip area. Previously I think I held my rod with my reel seat in my hand and my fingers split above and below the reel. Now that I am using the fore grip area I'm noticing only a couple rods have a comfortable enough section. Some are too short. Online I see most rods only have a 2" section and this is not enough. I've seen a few with maybe 2.5". is it odd to be holding the rod higher like I am now trying? It has really helped me with feeling bites and hook setting.

You may want to consider drilling small holes at the ends of the crack to prevent it from spreading further. And then, like Wayne said, find a welder to run a simple bead down the crack would resolve the problem. Taking the boat to a welder / welding shop would make it a quick and pretty inexpensive repair.

Say you do not have autopilot. You point your tm towards a far off bank and let it start taking you there. Then the wind blows a little and now your bow is pointing 50 yards off target and your tm keeps pulling you whereever your bow is pointed. Then the wind blows more, your bow starts to spin furthe away from your desierd location, and your tm just keeps pulling you wherever that bow is now pointing. I have autopilot. When I leave the dock on my electric-only reservoir I am usually heading to a cove I can see but is about 1/3 mile away. I point my tm towards it, engage autopilot and the boat heads off that way and I can start getting things ready in the boat. After about 5 minutes I am getting close and can make a slight adjustment and let the autopilot get me right where I want.

I have an 8' model. It weighs around 140 completely bare if you remove everything. I am able to leave everything in it (including trolling motor and battery) and get it into the back of my truck. I realize your situation is different. The weight alone is not that heavy (depending on age and ability) but it can be awkward because of the size. I would think 2 men could empty it and lift it onto the racks of a minivan. It would take a strong woman or teenager to assist you as I imagine you will have to lift it above your head to get it on those minivan racks. If I was by myself I don't think it could be done if you were worried about scratching the van up a little. It could probably be done by leaning it up against the side or rear of the minivan then lifting the bottom end and sliding it on. It will want to slide left or right and flop off while you are doing this, sometimes it even does this while I am lifting it 4 feet into the back of my truck bed. Getting it down will present some challenges. I think one full grown and able man could do this on and off but am pretty sure over time you will drop it a few times. These things are tough plastic but not sure how well they will hold up to flopping off the top of a vehicle. If you made a small platform to stand on that elevates you up a foot or two, that would help. A canoe or kayak would be easier to handle. Given the risks I'd have to take my minivan to the place would be getting the boat and try it before committing the cash.