Matt 825

I have 2 Stradic FI's. I used one of them pretty hard last year and it still works as good as new. I think the FG was the best series but I am liking the FI so far.

I pour almost all of my own drop shot baits. I do have a huge supply of Zoom Finesse worms that I have been trying to use up for the last few years.

It has become my favorite shallow crankbait. The smallies crushed it this fall.

Yeah a 2500 is the ideal reel for a finesse rig.

I had one that cost about $35. I think I got it from Cabela's, it lasted a few seasons. I used it when I was fishing for smelt in salt water, I would hang it in the water off the dock I was fishing on and eventually the fish would make their way over to the light. Get a neon green light if you can find one. It attracts all kinds of bait fish.

Fourbizz, I have been playing around with the Alberto knot that you mentioned and boy am I impressed with that knot. It is a real pain in the neck to tie and I had muscles in my hands hurting that I didnt even know I had when I was learning it. It is one mean looking knot and I'm pretty sure that it will replace the blood and Uni knot for me once I can tie it quickly. Thanks for sharing this knot with everyone.

I agree with J Franko. Jerkbaits work great for largemouth up here in winter, spring and late fall. I think I caught more largemouth over 5 IBs this year on jerkbaits than any other bait I threw. They see that pointer 100 and they have to eat it.

Yeah I am an ebay junkie also. It seems like every day I get a package in the mail. I have been getting slender pointers 112's for less than $10 recently. Also got a few sweet crankbaits

I use the old Stradic 2000's and then went to the 2500's when they stopped making the 2000. Last year I picked up a couple Shimano Stradic 3000's and I am impressed with the wider spool and it weighs the exact same as the 2500. For the braid and fluro line the wider spool just works much smoother for me.

Pointer 100-- Ghost Minnow, American Shad Spro McStick-- Blue Bandit, Spooky Shad (New Baits) They have been working great so far In cold water I use a Jerk, Jerk.......Pause (vary pause up to 30 seconds sometimes) then Jerk....pause.......jerk, jerk, jerk.....pause

I agree with Road Warrior. They must have been stacked in a few places. Sounds like you had a great Largemouth day though. I always try to target smallmouth in about 20-35ft in the winter, but I always have a few spots that are 35-50ft in case I cant get them in less than 35ft. It never hurts to try to get them deeper, but I have had the most success in 20-40ft in winter. I had a tough day yesterday, only caught 2 small smallmouth and they were in 45ft. Water temp was 38 and even the perch didnt want to bite. :-/

I have found the blood knot to work best for me when I am joining braid to fluro when the lines are a very close match in terms of diameter. If they are off a bit like if I am tying 10 IB fluro to 6 IB diameter braid then a double uni knot works best. You just have to make sure that the knots come out perfect and the coils are not overlapping at all . If they overlap and you dont retie it then it will be snap-ar-ooo

I use Spinning gear for jerkbaits, but I dont think there is any advantage with spinning or baitcasting gear. Guys should just use what they are most comfortable with when fishing jerkbaits.

I'd use an xtra fast MH rod. I am currently using a 7'2" MH Shimano Cumara and it is absolutley the best rod for football Jigs that I have ever used.

I have 2 xmlti Baitcasters, a 7'0" MH Carlolina Rig rod and a 6'6" MH. They are pretty good rods, but are a bit on the heavy side. I really like the Carolina rig rod, its the best carolina rig rod I have ever owned. I would say overall they are a really good value, but if you are looking for a lighter rod then its not the one for you.

I use blade baits almost exclusively from November until Ice-in and then right after ice out. They work great for Smallmouth & Largemouth. I fish it exactly the same for Largemouth as I do for Smallmouth. I have way more success for Smallmouth but have had some great days catching Largemouth with them also.

I would paint them on there but if you really wanted stick on I'd go with 5/32"

I am pretty sure that they spawn in colder than 50 in Massachusetts.

You do not want to heat the rod blank at all or the ring insert at all. Heat applied to either one of these will do serious damage. Best way to put a tip on a rod is 1.) heat the glue up with a lighter and then rotate it around the rod tip so the tip is covered with glue. ( dont worry if it is too thick for now) 2.) hold the tip top with your thumb and pointer finger right on the ring insert. (You do not want to expose the insert ring to heat) 3.) hold the tube of the metal tip top under a lighter to heat it up (not the rod blank). Once you feel the heat in your fingers it is hot enough. (dont burn yourself, be careful) 4.) Slide the tip top onto the rod tip. The hot metal tip top should melt the glue that you already put on the rod top and slide down easily. You should have a few seconds to align the tip with the guides. 5.) Give it a few seconds to cool and then with your finger nails, peel off the excess glue. 6.) If you are not happy with the alignment, you can reheat the metal part of the tip top, but you must be very careful not to overheat and damage the rod blank or the guide insert. Heat very slowly until the tip loosens and then re-align. That should hold and never come lose!!!!

You will have to replace the guide that is damaged. It will cut your line and you will lose fish because of it Any custom rod builder can replace that guide for short money if Quantum wont fix it for free.

X2 Its so much easier to see yellow than green. You will see your line jump way easier with the yellow line. If I am fishing where I think the fish can see my line I will either use a fluro leader or a sharpie and color the line black.

X3 Also there are many things that can make a blank more sensitive as the rod is being built: Keeping the overall weight of the rod to a minimum is essential. Using light (titanium) guides, thin epoxy finish, proper guide spacing, and a split grip handle will all increase the sensitivity of the blank. All blanks are not created equal however and there is a gigantic difference in high end blanks made by companies like G Loomis, Rainshadow, CTS, St Croix versus the low end blanks on less expensive rods.

LOL I had a Daiwa Tierra, after 2 months it died and I returned it and exchanged it for a Stradic. My vote for overall value would go to the Shimano Symetre. That being said I have strong love for the Stradic.

Yeah I agree with Bass-Brat. You will need at least MH powered rod to yank those fish out of the pads.

Most of the time I dont use rattles but I have had a few days where if you didnt have a rattle on your jig you had a tough time getting bit. If the water is stained or muddy I use a rattle, If it is heavy wood cover I use a rattle. Otherwise in Crystal clear water which I fish 80% of the time its a no rattle rule for me.