Pinoy_Basser

Wow the Golf Club Rod looks wicked indeed. FORE !!!

This is usually I do, When spooling new line (braid/mono/flouro) set your drag to max to avoid slipping when spooling with tension and set the cast control knob to eliminate any side by side movement. Make sure the spool will not have any unwanted movement during spooling. Halfway to the spooling stop and put a piece of masking tape crosswise (or Left to right) so that you can cover the end to end length of the spool. For braid, use the tape to cover the knot of the mono backing. The tape will help to limit the backlash (or loose line) to the top part of the spooled line. Continue spooling till full. I have a habit of un-spooling the line till the tape and re-spooling it back after or before a fishing trip. And always the line under the tape is still tight and secure.

Feeling Strikes on a slack line is same for both Flouro and Braid even mono. I rather watch the line move its more accurate to detect strikes. My 2 dollars

I sanded mine with multiple grits of sandpaper until I smoothen the burr out. You can polish it no biggie. My citica 201e is still going strong and I see no issues after the sanding. On a side note if you search for drag tuning they actually sand that area to help improve the smoothness of the drag.

Yup aavery2 is right-on. Here is what i do. Get the handle and mount it on the shaft (no need to screw it on). This will help you prevent the shaft to move while working the main gear loose. Work the main gear free by slowly turning the main gear left to right vice versa while applying upward force on the main gear. Check the burr on the shaft and smooth it out with a dremel or sandpaper just enough so that you cant feel the burr on the shaft. Do a test run by sliding the main gear and see if it still gets stuck.

Thanx guys. Tried getting a pix but my crappy camera is not helping. Judging by the location of the epoxy, I suspect it was dried with the guides positioned below the rod and slowly dripped to the guide frame and insert. If you look thru the guide you can see a bit of epoxy on one side covering about 1/8th of the guide diameter. Will try to put it under the knife method suggest by DVT tonight. Thank you All.

Might be a bad batch of guides. Better get the rods with regular guides if the next rod you get still has the problem.

Hi, I got a rod from a clearance bin which was marked as damaged due to some excess epoxy on the guide. I said "what the heck" and got the rod. I was thinking of heating the guide to remove it but I might accidentally heat the guide to the point that the inserts will pop out. Whats the best way to remove the excess epoxy without damaging the rest of the guide. (its fuji alconite). TIA

If you really need a leader try a FG Knot or a GT Knot. You need sometime to tie it right but its strong and low profile enough to slide thru the guides which minimal hanging.

Hi, Are you using a leader ? If your line to leader knot is too bulky it will bang the inserts hard during the cast. I have some rods that the inserts popped out during the cast (not micros). I guess the small diameter of the micros will increase this problem. IMHO, If you are using a leader either use a low profile knot or dont use a leader at all. (micros to me are not leader friendly).

Hi to all, Its my first time to share my thoughts. Please be gentle. First of all what is Sensitivity ? The closest meaning we can compare to rods is in the field of electronics. From Wikipedia site: Sensitivity In electronics: The sensitivity of an electronic device, such as a communications system receiver, or detection device, such as a PIN diode, is the minimum magnitude of input signal required to produce a specified output signal having a specified signal-to-noise ratio, or other specified criteria. Sensitivity is sometimes improperly used as a synonym for responsivity. Sensitivity can be measured: Microphones The sensitivity of a microphone is usually expressed as the sound field strength in decibels (dB) relative to 1 V/Pa (Pa = N/m2) or as the transfer factor in millivolts per pascal (mV/Pa) into an open circuit or into a 1 kilohm load. Loudspeakers The sensitivity of a loudspeaker is usually expressed as dB / 2.83 VRMS at 1 metre. This is not the same as the electrical efficiency; see Efficiency vs Sensitivity. Hydrophones The sensitivity of a hydrophone is usually expressed as dB re 1 V/µPa. So do we express/measure a fishing rod’s sensitivity ??? IM6, IM7 Modulus, tonnage are descriptions of the materials not their sensitivity If rod makers claim theirs is more sensitive than others then they must have a stat sheet of all the competitor’s rods to make that claim or to be able to produce a more sensitive rod. So logically there should be an existing stat sheet right ? It would be better if major rod manufactures to share that standard, quantitative, calculative or whatever proof on how to measure a rod’s sensitivity. Like an industry standard chart. Similar to ABEC standard is to bearings. If they do then, the issue of rod sensitivity is valid since we have a way to measure it. IMHO, The only TRUE part of the system that we can see that sensitivity is truly present is the angler himself. As we go to another definition: of Sensitivity: the capacity of an organism or sense organ to respond to stimulation (stimuli eg. vibrations). Fishing rods DON’T have any Sense organs or any sensors that respond to the input signal it receives or does shimano have already invented a DC rod already ? If we remove the angler - If the the rod receives vibrations it just vibrates. If it receives a pull it just bends to the direction of the pull aside from that there is no additional responce from that signal. It reflects the transmited the signals from the source. Basically we can describe a fishing rigs to or like a fishing communication system. The Fish, Structure, Lures = Source/Input Signal (Vibration, Hit, structure) The Line, Rods = Transmission medium for the Source/Input Signals (Stimuli) to travel from the source to the receiver. Hand/Angler = Receiver, Sensor or the one required to produce a specified output signal (response) having a specified signal-to-noise ratio (Is it a bite or just a snag ? should I do a Hookset ?). Thus sensitivity is highly required in the anglers part. No matter how faint the signal coming from the rod or line, if your hand/angler is sensitive enough to detect those faint signals thus you have a good response time to detect those bites. Just wanted to share Thanx

here is him reply Lower seletar resevitor park

Will ask him

Hi, One of my fishing buddies is currently in Singapore now on a business trip and was hitting the Peacocks every weekends. Check if the pond will allow live bait or barbless hooks only. Some waters have strict fishing rules there. He was using his bass gear, Med-Heavy to Heavy set-ups (Casting with 65lbs Braid) and he said the peacocks are in to <5 lbs range. There are big ones but not like the Amazon grade that are really big. He had two Peacocks that Broke/Straighten his stocked hooks so I suggest use beefier Hooks and Split Rings. Topwater lures (spooks, subwalks, frogs, buzzbait) was recommended by the locals. You can also go after "Tomans" (Channa Micropeltes). Its the Giant Snakehead featured in the "Fishzilla" Episode on National Geographic I think. Hope this helps.

Hi Pinnacle_1, Im planning to buy a Pinnacle "Ultra Balance Rod" (Model # : UB662CAM its a split type rod with cork material) for a back-up rod for friends who want to fish with me. But I cant seem to find any info on the web even on the Pinnacle site. Wanted to make sure its a legit rod. (Lots of bootleg rods being sold here). Can you shed some light on this rod and some specs (Action, taper, for bass etc etc). TIA.

Hi Pinnacle 1, My Good Ol' Pinnacle V10 is requesting some love (upgrades) after a season of fishing. The original bearings (Spool) are beggining to show some roughness even after cleaning/Lubing them. I decided to replace all bearings if possible and also might swap bushings for bearings (if also possible). Can you help me check all the bearing specs (IDxODxHeight/width). on the old VS10 Round reel (I cant find it on the net). If there is a Bocabearing package equivalent that will be great. Also what other parts you can recommend to upgrade (ex. Bushing to bearings). The VS10 is a nice reel and I like using it. Im also thinking to get the new rods once they are available. Thanx

Hi, I have an old VS10 round reel from a friend. During cleaning I noticed the drag is stuck on the main gear and I tried to slowly remove it but im afraid I might break it. I decided to leave it there (since it still works). Its been a year since then and now it was starting to slip more often. 1. What current day drag material can I use to replace it ? (What Reel company has similar size equivalent) 2. How can I remove the old stuck drag material ? 3. What type of drag grease can I use. 4. How can I check if the old drag material is still ok and just need a good cleaning? Also, I'm little confused about its braking system. It has a 4-pin centrifugal Brake system and the Brake shoes have a V-shape and was angled at the narrow end. Which side should have contact with the brake drum ? Thanx

Yup we fish for Snakeheads (Haruan or tomans). I from the Philippines and snakehead is our local freshwater gamefish (not the ones that are causing havoc on the states by the way thats another species of snakeheads) we also have some Largemouth bass is some lakes along with Peacock bass and saltwater game of course like barramundi. We fish Haruans using normal bass gear and the most effective lures are spinnerbait, crankbait and frogs.

Hi, Im planning to get a new BC (shimano) and eyeing the Shimano Cruxis 201 reel. Did some research on the net and the posts I saw where mainly for Saltwater. Need help from guys who use this reel for inputs. My questions are: Can the cruxis cast light lures (1/2 oz. Spinners, Frogs)?. Planning to use it for freshwater back home for Bass, Barramundi and Snakeheads. Can it handle Braid (The levelwind)? Will the Plastic drag star and tension knob be an issue in the future? Are there upgrade parts for the plastic parts ? With 4 bearings does the reel still feel smooth (with or without load) ? Thanx guys.

Hi, What are the usual problems of uneven line lay? I have one reel that has a little bulk (about 4 / 5 turns) on the right side of the spool. How do i fix it? thanx

Hi reel mech, Thanx fof the reply. Tried to do it but the palming plate wont come-off. Do i need to rotate or just apply pressure on the plate? thanx

Hi Everyone. Need help. How do you remove the non-handle side plate of your Round Reels like the shimano Calcutta. It might help me with my VS10 Pinnacle reel. Im afraid I might damage it if I force it. Thanx a lot

Hi Need help on a old Pinnacle vision vs10 reel. I got this from a friend and I like to do a a major cleaning of the parts. I got the schematics from the net already but I cant seem to get the non handle side to open. Also, the braking system on this reel is quite old and I have no idea how to set them. I found a total of 8 plastic stoppers in the box with it and a tool (like a small box wrench). TIA

Hi Jayce here new guy in the forum. I recently got a used Energy PT E761PT-E7 Reel. I noticed that the drag was tight than usual even if I max out the drag setting (need more pull to start the spool giving out line). I already lubed the bearings but still the same. I tried to gain access to the drags but I can seem to get the Handle of the reel (Screw-on Handle) Im afraid I might break it. Is there a way to troubleshoot this problem without opening the reel? How can I remove the handle without forcing it or damage any gears? If I gain access to the drag area what should I be looking for? TIA Mabuhay !!!