basswest1

Im interested to see what techniques and tackle you impliment while swimming jigs. Do you use white jigs.........or natural colors? Do you use a slow steady retrieve or a up and down retrieve? What kind of trailers do you prefer?

That is pretty cool being able to see Lake Montgomery now-a-days. Seeing it as a lake which is so aged and almost gone only adds to the mystery of the World Record Largemouth Bass. Its also cool that it is an Oxbow, because it makes it seem like everything that was trapped inside it was trapped from the rest of the world............i dont know what im talking about.......its just pretty cool.

Hey guys, Im new to owning NEW boats and engines, and have recently bought a new Triton with a Mercury Optimax. I am also a college student so i dont have much/any money, so i take care of my equipment better than anyone ive met. I think im a bit obsessive compulsive when it comes to my engine especially, if something doesnt seem right i cant sleep until my dealer tells me it is ok. I bought the Optimax during their promotion for a 5 year warranty, so I have a good warranty on it which is important because i cant afford to pay an arm and a leg for something going wrong. I was flushing my engine yesturday and popped it into idle for a moment, like the manual said was allowable. The engine had been working great sunday, so it was a big surprise when something sounded like it was rattleing and grinding in the lower unit. I immediatly drove down to my dealer who immediatly attatched a hose to flush it to hear the problem.........They didnt really know for sure what it was. They checked the lower unit fluid and other plugs and their was not a trace of any kind of metal shavings, so they hypothesised that the rattleing was due to the fact that when flushing there is no load on the engine or prop and that the rattling was caused by the slight give in some of the mechanism in the lower unit. Though i dont believe I have anything to worry about, it has got me thinking about Mercury's warranty. I worry that if there was something wrong that i could be due to a dealer problem.......because it just recently went in to have its first scedualed 10hr maintnance after break-in.........i worry that if that is the case.......that maybe if the dealer failed to do the proper maintnance (dealer is a certified Mercury dealer and service center). If this was the case.....could the dealer just deny that it wasnt them and was something i did? I just want to know if anyone has any input on warranty coverage. I just want to know if engine companies usually bend over backwards for their customers. Are these warranties pretty safe? I would like to know if everyone is satisfied with their engine companies..........Yamaha, Honda, Mercury, Evinrude.......whatever. (i would like to add that there has been no problem with any dealer, or Mercury.......I have had nothing but a great experience so far with both, these questions are just hypothetical questions from a new boat owner. I do not doubt either the dealer or Mercury Marine's commitment to Customer Satisfaction. I am not looking for opinions on what you think could be the issue with the rattle in the engine either.) Thanks

Well, its my second day with my new boat and the constant alarm sounded on the engine. It is a brand new engine. After launching i started to begin my day of breaking in the new motor and two minutes into the ride the constant alarm sounded. I slowed down, shut off the engine and then I turned it back on.......after letting it sit for a second. The alarm didnt sound again. I put about 15 minutes into it today after that and it didnt make a sound. I was keeping it well within the required 35-4500 RPM break in procedure. I got off the water early because im a little cautious, obviously its an over heat. ill bring it to the dealer tommorrow. i think it is either oil or water pressure. If it was a faulty oil pump wouldnt the alarm sound again? If there is something wrong with it the alarm should keep sounding. I consulted the owners manual and it said that it is either oil or cooling system. Anyone have similar experiences with an OptiMax (dont answer if you dont have an OptiMax because all engines are different.) And yes there was pleanty of oil and the seal was tight.

Hey Folks, I am proud to announce that Business Air (www.Business-Air.com) and JetWorks Air Center (jwac.aero) are joining to become my new main sponsors!! Business Air is a Texas-based company specializing in Aircraft sales, Charter, Management, Painting and interior and much more. JetWorks Air Center is also a Texas based group of professionals who specialize in heavy-airframe maintnance, inspections, complete avionics installations, and paint and interior for a large range of turbine powered aircraft. These guys do some awesome work, but aside from doing exceptional work they are just great people who bend over backwards for their customers. These are the good ol boys! Anyways, I couldnt be more proud to represent these two companies. If you will be fishing the Bassmaster Weekend Series in the Okeechobee or Cypress division and see me........stop and say hellow. Ill be wearing the Business Air and JetWorks Air Center jersey. God Bless -Miles Miles' other sponsors include: Baranof Wilderness Lodge (www.flyfishalaska.com) and Guardian Distributors of Florida (who distribute Kevin VanDam Line and Lure Conditioner and Bow To Stern Protectant Formula)

Hey guys, Im looking at a 1996 ZX190 Skeeter with a Yamaha ProV 200hp. The boat looks real clean and its a decent price........however we all know that you cant judge a book by its cover........and that goes for buying a used boat especially. I want to know if anyone else knows if Skeeter made this model in 1996 with wood in the transom? If it does have wood im going to be sure to check for what condition it is in. What is the best way to see if wood isnt dryrotted? Also.....does anyone have any experience with Yamaha ProV engines? Im a big fan of Yamaha......however I am not familiar with these models. If anyone is familiar with these models are there any specific things i should watch out for or should ask the owner aobut? Thanks guys, I appreciate any help you can give. Im a college student and try to do things right and dont want to be stuck with a lemon!

I have a Motorguide Tour 65lb thrust 24volt trolling motor. Recently, out of the blue, it just began running on one speed........high. What is going on? I didnt do anything to it. Has anyone else had to deal with this before? How was it fixed.......and dont tell me i need to take it to a mechanic who will do the once over then jiggle a wire and then it will start working.........and then he writes me up for $120.

Hey Guys......Like you all know im still lookin for the perfect boat. Ive never bought a new boat before so warrantees and service plans are new to me. Im looking at getting a boat package with a Yamaha 4stroke or Vmax(if i can afford it) and Yamaha is having a new promotion till the end of October where you get a free 3 year service plan (somthing like a $2000 value) for free. Now this sounds like it would be right up my alley......except im not sure what the service plan covers........what do service plans usually give you when you buy them......do they ensure that if your engine isnt working right, within the service plans life, theyll fix it for no additional charge? Do they give you free tune ups? Im just curious.

I would concentrate my efforts on using fast moving baits..........like jerkbaits, spinnerbaits and crankbaits..........also carolina rigs. Especially this time of year........dont avoid the wind........find the banks that the wind is pushin water against......all that wind pushes plankton against the shore and in turn baitfish then bass arive...........wind can really start a feeding frenzy on those kind of banks. Id move real fast.

The only reason im goin NEW is because its easier to finance and easier to get a low insurance rate..........also most used boats dont have transferable warantees.

Well im looking for that new boat to begin this years tournament season right. I just moved to where i am in florida, and when i get a job the next thing im going to do is go out and get a boat (well after a couple paychecks). Im looking for an entry level 18ft bass boat. Im not sure what company yet. I looked at Nitro and they look like the best buy and i liked the boats.........however thats just because its easy to research the prices for these boats becasue they readily price them. I also looked at Stratos....which is my second pick......Triton.......which might be too expensive....but then again its hard to tell when you cant find a set price for anything without going to a dealer. I looked at Skeeter, Champion, Pro Craft, BassCat, and a whole lot more. I was also interested in aluminum models which could save me a alot in money and they could be a great starter boat. I looked at Xrpess which was my favorite, G3 and Tracker. My main concern with aluminum models is their ability to handle big water well............I fish lake okeechobee and it can get pretty hairy out there and im not an expert on hull design or anything so i dont know what boats can handle rough water if they NEEDED to. If anyone who has a 18-20ft aluminum and belives that they are very stable in rough water.........i need a safe boat, but also one that I can compete in. Can anyone give me some advice about what entry level boats are good performance wise and are RELIABLE, with a modest price tag.............20-23grand. I saw that Triton has a new promotion for their boats.......a super low monthly rate with no money down............i could get a Tr 196 for $179 a month with no money down..........with a 5.9% interest rate for 48 months.........but the thing that scares the crap out of me is that after 48months the interest goes to 24% or somethin like that. But i figure i can use any extra cash ive got to pay as much over the montly as possible but in an emergency only pay the minimum. However......it still seems too sketchy. Anyways.......id appreciate the input.

Does anyone have any advice on who to go with for insurance for a new boat? Im going to be getting a new boat within the next few months.......probably a new Nitro or Stratos. Im 20 and a college student. I checked progressive and they quoted me over $250 bucks a month!!! which is outragous.......as far as im concerned.........thats more than the boat payments. The only thing that i "NEED" is $300,000 accident liability to be able to fish most tournaments that require that as a minimum. I mean.......if $250 is what im looking at i just cant do it.

I bring scuba gear every time i fish with Lucky Crafts...............dont tell me to just let er go.......i spent 17 bucks for that SOB. I dont care if its Gator infested waters either.

I work in Alaska as a fishing guide and one of the things we do is run charters for deep sea fish like halibut........like 300ft of water usually (any deeper and the client usually gives up). Quite a few years back a client that comes back every year lost one of our rods out in the middle of Chatham Straight in Southeast Alaska..........in the middle of the ocean.........he set the hook on a halibut and lost his grip. Anyways.........this year..........guess what.......a different client pulled it up. OUT OF 300ft of water!! The braided line was still on it and everything.......though the salt water did a number on it. What are the odds?

I tell you what........id like to fish this lake! Of course i like to fish any lake. Anyways, what it looks like you got is just a normal highland reservior. It looks like there are many bluff banks and good points. I would think that vegitation is down to a minimum and that the prevailing cover is in the form of wood and brush. I personally in this situation.....if i was to fish it for the first time in late summer like it is now.......i would concentrate on main lake points. So take your map and mark all the main late structure like points, bluffs, humps ect. Now look at those and look for the ones with a considerably abrubt change in depth.......where there may be a channel that swings in close. Id start there, because these fish are probably still in a deep summer pattern. These bass will be up on the tops of the points in the morning and then pull back onto their edges in the afternoon. Anyways.......id start there. As for what lures, id use the Keep It Simple Stupid method and fish finesse straight tail worms on a drop shot or shaky head.

Ill tell you right now nick. You have something going. As a person who has an undieing passion for the sport of bass fishing and everything that comes with it, the marketing, public relations, travel, and of course the fishing i know a good thing when i see it. You definently have a good contact. Keep in touch with that writer and always think out of the box and promote your sponsors. This is how you grow as a pro. Its all selling. As a professional these companies pay you to move their BOTTOM LINE! And if you can show them that you do this......by sending them reports of what you have done to promote their product or service you can really move up on the totem pole. You need to save articles like this and put them into a portfolio and really work on it. Future sponsors will jump all over you when you show them you are a good PROMOTER....which to them is (i hate to say it) a bit more important than a fisherman. And work on your public speeking skills this is really key.......being able to speek to the public is very important. I personally have many articles in my portfolio........storys promoting the Baranof Wilderness Lodge in Warm Springs Bay Alaska (sponsor) and also on other things such as tournament finishes, lake reports, and on my All-Teen Team Bass Tournament Fudraiser bass tournament i organized. these are all things that i save.........even the smallest because i am starting out too. Personally im saving my portfolio until i graduate from college because as a sponsored ATHALETE you need to think of it as a FULL TIME job......and i want to save that until i have finished my Marketing degree. But thats my path.......you have chosen another one and for your age.........you are doing PHENOMINAL and i mean that!! I dont mean to lecture you about this but i really see something in you, and i want you to grow as an angler and a proficient promotor of the sport of bass fishing........but i dont think you need this info because i think you already know it. Anyways......youve got it bro. Ill see you on the water. -Miles

Number one: I know it sucks and takes time but retie. Retie all the time. When carolina rigging you are dragging it over some nastie stuff.......so retie.........and always check your beads because they break often. I think your problem is the line choice. You have braid and florocarbon.........both have very little stretch.........which in deep water can be good because you get a solid hookset..........however when you use such heavy braid youre putting that flourocarbon under some real stretch. What i usually use is mono for my main line and floro for my leader............because that leader can take a beating and wont break when you set the hook hard...........because the mono is strong but has stretch which cusions the hookset. However always be aware of the condition of your line.

It depends on the kind of lake. If its a lowland resevior deep means 15ft or even less. In canyonland reserviors it means as deep as 100ft. In those lakes where deep is around the 20ft zone i would use, carolina rigs, heavy spinnerbaits, crankbaits such as DD22 (Bill NOrman lures) strike king model 5, worms fished texas or ball head rigged. In deep clear lakes where fish can be caught in 100ft of water i use small 3" worms with a drop shot rig, dart headed 6" worms, Football headed spider grubs such as Yamamoto Hula Grubs.

I love fishing hot weather!! I am from California also and it sounds like a lake like lake oroville or shasta. Thermocline is key, or atleast that is what i would base a starting patern. You have pinpointed where the Thermocline is........now understand what it means. A thermocline is the part of the water column sandwhiched between the bottom layer (hypolimnion) which is colder with less oxygen and the top layer (epilimnion) which is warmer with an abundance of oxygen. Now the thermocline is an area which is a zone at which the temperature, light penetration and PH level falls drastically........about a deggree a foot for temp. This is usually where baitfish stay at that level because the light conditions and temperature conditions are just perfect for them and also bass. Now you have pinpointed the depth at which it exists..........now pinpoint mainlake structure like Mainlake points humps, rockpiles, dropoffs....creek channels........that intersect that depth. Now find the cover which makes the structure even better. Now look for baitfish.........and there you are.......go fishing. Use lures that can effectively fish this area, like dropshot rigs, c-rigs, deep diving cranks, dart head worms (i use spot removers) or your favorite baits. I feel that this may help..since i am in school summers are the best times for me to fish. I wish i could be bass fishing now..........but right now i am guiding in Alaska.........to pay for bass fishing when i get back. I hope you get em.

Well.........unfortunately i wouldnt be surprised if Forest L Woods and Ranger boats saw the clips of his actions and said.......thats it......thats the line that you shouldnt have crossed. I dont disslike Ike.......I can understand how intense tournaments can be.......but i think that he really crossed a line. SOrry Ike

Just wanted to know if anyone has a fishing log software for their computer that they like..........because i have one and it is just a pain to deal with...........Its supposed to be a point and click program but it is a pain in the butt.

For me winter is the hardest time......just because i have little experience fishing then because i am still in school and working all the time.

Well Rolo.........i didnt know that swim bladders were limited to some species of fish...........i am not a marine biologist or ichthiologist or anything i just studdy the habbits and biology of the Micropterus Salmoides and its family members............so thank you that you set me straight on that............and i dont know all the answers exactally.........all i can do is fish and formulate what i feel is fact from my experiences..........but thanks........i really shouldnt attempt to say something like it is fact unless i know.

Ok......Well go through them one by one -High & Low Pressures: First of all you need to know how barametric pressure affects fish..........it actually affects their swim bladder. The swim bladder is a little baloon like organ in the bass which the bass can inflate and deflate to maintain equilibrium in the water.......so for example they can stay at 10ft without having to move their fins too much and expent energy.............When hight pressure moves in.........that puts pressure on this bladder and makes it hard for them to stay suspended at depth..........this often causes fish to stay close to the bottom or dig deep into cover. Low pressure does the opposite.........it puts less pressure on the bladder which makes fish sometimes go shallower.............extremes on both ends of the spectrum are bad. Sometimes lowering pressure is associated with a front.......not a cold front itself but the leading edge of the front...........then after the front leaves pressure sky rockets..........this is why sometimes coldfronts are really hard on fish........and fishermen.......because it was a drastic change. -Moon Phases: Moon phases do have an effect on fish and all living things..........except some situations affect bass more........for example when night fishing in summer.........some fisherman experience a significant decline (also some better) in fish activity when there is a clear sky and a full moon at night...........But one of the most important moon related situations is in spring..............if the water is close to spawning temperature.............ALOT OF BASS WILL move up on beds if there is a full moon. Bass will move up on beds at 54 degrees if there is a full moon near. Now that you know some of the facts and therories around these I want you to do something..............dont worry about them.........PERSONALLY (and alot of people on this forum are going to smack me in the back of the head for telling you thing) i pay little attention to these factors (except moon phase in spring) not because they dont affect the bass.........but personally if i come to the lake with the mindset that there is a cold front with high pressure so the bass will be inactive......i might miss out on the active fish and totally miss out on a productive pattern.............ive learned that you need to fish the moment and not judge the activitie of the fish without even dropping the line...........ive had some days where i was catching tons of fish during a cloudy day and then caught an equal amount or even better during a cold front.............the point is...........dont abbandon patterns which caught fish before factors changed........just fish and then if the fish changed...........fish accordingly. I AM NOT SAYING DONT CHANGE IM JUST SAYING THAT I DONT LIKE TO ABANDON A WORKING PATTERN BEFORE IVE PROVEN IT DOESNT WORK.

On top of what everyone else said........pay attention to the bottom composition around the stump.......for example......in the spring bass frequently make their beds next to stumps......so in spring look for those stumps in the backs of cuts, bays and so in and look for them with a hard bottom with little silt or mud.