senile1

I've had a great deal of success with the original Rat-L-Trap. I use the same colors as Bassn Blvd mentioned in his post. I also use SK's Red Eye Shad, Spro's Aruka Shad, and occasionally the Cordell Spot also. I started out years ago with the Traps so I have used them more and have caught more fish on them than the others but I have been impressed with both Strike King's and Spro's offerings. As for how I fish the Rat-L-Traps, it depends on the situation but burning and ripping, yo-yo'ing, and slow and steady, etc are all part of the repertoire.

I agree with this but I would take it much further. Anyone with a big interest in bass fishing usually learns about the seasons and the typical locations for bass during those seasons in their first couple of years in the sport. The big key is knowing how to find these locations. On very large lakes of thousands of acres, or say a lake with thousands of acres of wood interspersed with creek channels, finding the bass' location can be a daunting task. Many anglers know where the fish should be, but finding those locations is another matter. We can all look at a map and choose general areas where the fish should be, but pinpointing locations with accuracy is not easy and a few yards one way or another, or choosing the wrong creek channel bend can make all the difference between catching a bounty of fish or being skunked. I would like to see detailed articles on using and reading electronics to find these locations. Also, remember that not everyone has side imaging. Many anglers still use two dimensional fish finders and it takes much more time and detailed work to find fish locations with these devices. An angler can be adept at using numerous techniques and handling their gear, but if they have trouble locating the fish much of that technical skill is wasted.

Smithville does have some nice bass but be ready to work for them. There are times when the bite will be on for only a very short time during the day. I have more success there when I spend my whole day on the water. If you only have 4 hours or less to fish, you may leave with nothing.

Your issue could have been any number of things already mentioned. Keep in mind that the thermocline at Smithville generally occurs around approximately 15 feet so there is no reason to fish any deeper than that during the hot months. Smithville fish will suspend on channel edge trees at about 10 feet down to the thermocline in Summer. Look for these trees on channel bends and intersections. They can also be found on points at that depth as well. Find these locations and you will increase your chances. Having said that, I am a regular at Smithville Lake and for me, it is one of the most difficult lakes I have ever fished for bass. I can go out of town to other Missouri lakes that I don't know as well (Table Rock, Stockton, Norfork, Pomme De Terre, Truman, Mozingo, etc) and I rarely fail to put fish in the boat. I have spent a lot of time the last few years learning Smithville and I know it better than all of the other lakes combined, yet, my success rate is lower there, especially during the hotter months. I can only make educated guesses as to why that is the case. As a 7190 acre reservoir near the KC metro area it gets a ton of pressure and numerous tournaments which may have something to do with it.

I agree with you about the record. He didn't abide by the rules so he shouldn't get the record. All I am saying is I can empathize with his frustration but that doesn't mean he should get the record. I disagree with you for implying he is stupid. I guess you have never accidentally broken a rule of which you were not aware?

Wow, what a fish! Objectively, the guy did not follow the rules so he doesn't get the record. I get that, but that doesn't mean I can't empathize with the guy. We all make mistakes and miss things, whether in fishing, or some other area of our lives. It's a shame he missed the record on such a rule but those are the breaks. Lund Explorer stated: I assume you are referring to the statement, "You can't cure stupid." That might be a bit harsh, LE. I can say without a doubt that all, including the most intelligent among us, have made a mistake like this at some point in our lives.

I had read somewhere about Zona's recommendation. This is a common technique with light wire hooks, octopus hooks, and techniques that use them. Most of my jigs have a pretty sturdy hook. I'm not sure I would feel confident trying this.

I've heard it said that if the hooks don't spook the fish why would the line? That's a good question. However, in southern Missouri and northern Arkansas there are a number of very clear lakes - Norfork, Bull Shoals, Table Rock, Beaver, and Stockton to name some. I have yet to meet a guide or read one's website for these lakes that doesn't recommend either using lower pound test fluorocarbon or a fluorocarbon leader with braid. They fish this type of water daily, so I use a leader with braid just to play it safe. With a properly tied alberto knot I am not concerned about another point of failure. I also use straight fluorocarbon on one plastics/jig rod and on my deep crankbait rod. It is rare that I use braid for top water but I agree that it isn't such a concern there to have fluorocarbon. Of course, you have to account for the lack of stretch with a softer rod, or more delay in your hookset.

Buy yourself a truck bed extender.

I agree with some of the statements regarding relationship problems. If something is bad in your marriage, Facebook is not the cause of the problem. It is just another path for those with problems to stray. That's all. Rid youself of Facebook and the problem is still there. If you have a good relationship you won't be worried whether your mate has a Facebook account or not. Why wouldn't you? My wife and I are in each other's friends lists. It is no different than being a contact in your mate's cell phone. It's just another means of communication, if needed, and I have nothing to hide if she looks at my page. Of course, we don't use Facebook much except to touch base with long lost or long distance friends. To me, I think it is a very impersonal way to relate to current friends who I see every day or week but they are still in my friends list.

If you are in need of some jigs, there's no reason to be afraid. Mike's jigs are high quality at a bargain price.

Nice work, Mike. That grass jig looks killer.

You're saying 15 bass were lying in the back of a truck for over an hour and 12 survived . . . an 80 percent survival rate? I wasn't there so I can't argue with you but it sure sounds fishy to me. (Pun intended. )

Keep in mind that just because a fish swims away it doesn't mean that it ultimately survived. There have been studies performed, specifically for tournament fish that have been kept in the best of livewell environments and then bagged for weighing. Some still die after being returned to the water. I suspect all of the fish mentioned in the post below died after release. For the highest success rate with catch and release it is imperative that the fish be handled gently and returned to the water as quickly as possible. We all take a picture now and then, so have everything ready and close by for picture taking. Then get that fish back in the water.

I thought the same thing but I think the jury is still out on that one. Read the following thread on how to hold a bass and make note of what Fish Chris has to say. Chris is a trophy hunter and has caught quite a few bass well over 10 lbs. There are quite a few others who think that a vertical hold is fine as long as it is a short length of time. http://www.bassresou...by lip__st__15

Buy a scale that doesn't require a hole such as a Boga Grip. http://www.alltackle.com/boga_grip_tool.htm

Thanks for the write-up Bassclary. I purchased one of the first Powell Max bass rods, the 683C, back in 2006. I was thoroughly impressed and purchased a few more Powell rods in the next couple of years thereafter including the 684c, the 684cb, the 703mef spinning and the 702mlef spinning. I still see Powell as very high quality at its price point.

I don't have any IMXs but I have GLXs and they stand up fine unless you are just a terror with your rods. There are obvious things like stepping on them, slamming them in doors, slamming them down on something hard, etc that will break any rod. Avoid them and you will be fine.

There is no way to know with 100 percent certainty but there are some clues that can make you lean one way or the other. If water clarity is muddy or poor, rattles may help the fish to find the lure. If a lake is highly pressured and the bass tend to be familiar with every rattling bait known to man, a silent crank might be better. The only way to know for sure is the tried and true mantra, "Let the bass tell you what they want."

Try doing an internet search of Ohio freshwater fish to see what this fish was. I would guess if it had teeth all around that it was a walleye, a sauger, or a saugeye. Maybe someone brought the fish from another location and placed it in the pond. I don't suppose it was a bowfin? I don't think they could be mistaken for bass due to their long dorsal fin but I'm just throwing it out there.

I noticed all the skirts on the same page yesterday when I was submitting an order. Keep up the good work, Mike. RW (and for anyone else looking), I believe it is under "MATA jig."

A few things come to mind from your post. Number 1 is always to consider location. You stated that, "I know I am in a decent spot." A decent spot in the spring could be a spawning flat while in the heat of summer, fishing that same spawning flat could result in a big fat zero. Keep in mind that decent spots can change based on the season. You did state that you caught two bass after switching to nightcrawlers so this may, indeed, be a good spot, but it is just something to keep in mind when judging your location. Number 2 is to consider the type of presentation you are using. You stated that you tried "Zoom super flukes, jigs, spinnerbaits, crankbaits (KVD square bill and Rat-L-Trap), Rage tail baby craws, and probably other things." Is it possible that your presentation just wasn't slow enough and once you switched to nightcrawlers the fish bit because of the docile presentation? Number 3 is to be wary of frustration. This is something that many of us have probably experienced in the early phases of developing our fishing skills. It can even happen to experienced anglers. When one becomes frustrated, his or her concentration on lure presentation can decrease and cause the presentation to suffer. Roadwarrior's link above is a good one to get you on some fish, especially when a slow presentation is needed. Deep's suggestion of using the Rapala floater is a good one too.

I use 2.5s the most among the baits mentioned. My favorite colors are Green Gizzard Shad and Orange Belly Craw depending on the forage and the water clarity.

Similar to Roadwarrior, the GMAN jig with Rage Tail Craw or Lobster catches fish in most situations for me. Another lure or technique may be the go to under specific circumstances, but overall the jig and craw would be my bread and butter.

I assume you and your buddy are fishing this pond from the bank which can be tough when a pond is weedy. If there is open water beyond the weeds I would suggest leaving the weeds alone and using a small boat if one is available. Then you can fish the outer weed line, fish the holes, punch the mat, drag a weedless topwater over the top, or whatever method fits the situation. Those weeds are probably the prime habitat for the bass in that pond.