Hot Rod

Falcon makes great rods. I've always been pleased with the Low Riders and the one Cara I have. I have a 7' Cara Reaction that I love to throw larger cb's on but I don't have any experience with the Bucoo's sorry. If I could afford 'em I'd have about 15 more Cara's ;D

I use the 3700 series box that is one, deeper compartment. (just looked it up, the model number is 3731, they are 3.25" deep where most are only 2" deep.) Keep the baits in the original package. You can file the packages in two side by side rows. Depending on the bait you can probably get about 20 or more bags in one 3700. And the baits stay straight, plus you have the package available to refer to size/color when it is time to restock. I have one marked "finesse", one for "tubes", one for "critters", etc. Makes it easy to find just the bait you want quickly.

X2 I like it in and around heavy veg. But elsewhere I prefer FC mostly

I used a couple of the cheap white plastic cutting boards that are about 1/4 to 3/8" thick. You can cut them easy enough with a sabre saw to fit the rod box and a hole saw to facilitate the tube placement. They cost about $5 - $10 depending on size. I used a small one in the front of the locker and a larger one in the back. The front one you can drill holes in it with a hole saw the same diameter as the rod tubes you buy. (I got my tubes from BPS) I put one in my boat last year. Didn't take too long and it works o.k. I think I'm going to go to rod covers though because I can get more rods in there with just the covers.

X2 Incidentally that is my absolute fav rod for flipping/pitchin 3/8 oz to 1 Oz jigs/trig plastics

X2 I like a 6'6" or a 6'8" for top water baits and jerkbaits or for "skipping" baits under branches/docks because it works best for me with my height and the height of my boat's deck from the water. A light 6' rod is also good for roll casting in close quarters where accuracy not distance is important, For example if are in standing timber and there are a lot of branches in the way of your casting motion. Otherwise I like a 7 to 7.5' rod for pitchin',flipin, casting. I'd go 8' but my rod lockers wouldn't.

I found Gulp more beneficial if the waters cold, say less than 50*, on a drop shot. But I don't think it offers much of an advantage over regular plastics in "warmer" water. JMHO

James creek is where everyone says to fish. I only fished there twice last year and never really found a good pattern. The fish I caught were all over the lake and the only thing I can add of value is the pattern definately changes if the water is moving. Allen Expect "company" if you fish James Creek area. Not saying its a bad area just usually has a concentration of boats for tounaments. I could show you 100 "good" spots to fish there. You could fish 99 of those and not catch a fish , then try the 100th and load the boat. That lake is very fickle because of the shad. You really do have to figure the fish out almost on a daily basis. So prefish is paramount.

I pulled into the dock one afternoon with my customary dozen or so rods sprawled on the deck (probably had a few left in the lockers too). A guy standing on the dock said, "Dang, don't you think you have too many rods?" I responded, "I didn't know there was such a thing as 'too many rods'. That'd about be like having too much money wouldn't it?!"

Isolated cover of any type

Pre-spawn 58-60 water temp, pitchin'/flipin' 3/8oz jig/pig to visible wood cover preferably stumps in 3-6' of muddy water. "Hand to fin combat"! ;D

They are just one of the "weapons" in my "arsenal". But I will admit they are one of a few go-to baits. I will also say that over the last 5 years or so I have really learned a lot about how to fish them efficiently. If you are just fishing them by casting them out wacky and letting them soak then you really don't know how to "fish" a senko!

Two ways I have found to solve this problem: I used to unpack them and put them in a divided plano box. It works but it isn't as efficient as what I do now. Now I leave them in the original package and place them in one of the deep 3700 single compartment planos. You can put two rows of packages in there sort of like index cards. This way they stay neat and you have the package to refer to when its time to restock. For either method if you are going to store/transport the plano on end rather than flat, be certain that the nose of the flukes point down when you store/transport the box. It keeps the tails from bending. So I always try to orient all the fluke baits in the same direction for storage because of that. Hope that helps.

RAOFL I wonder how the social worker/psycholgist will deal with the "Bait Monkey" in that episode? ;D

1/2 oz pink buzzbaits fished over the main river channel! I have two tournaments there then too

BPS, Yum, SK, Wave Worm (tiki stick)

Ice fishing Dang! isn't it March yet?

Last time I went to the PA Sportsman Show I dropped about $20K on a boat that was in '06. I don't know why but my wife has forbidden me to go back ;D

Well said!

I'm not loyal to any one brand. I use about a dozen or so different brands. I go more on an individual form/function of each bait type. For soft jerk baits I like Zoom, for shakey heads I like Berkley, etc., etc...

X2. +1

The only place I really add split rings is on Spooks to the hooks. I don't like how the stock Spooks hooks don't move free and feel it allows the fish to throw the bait easier.

X2 I have a "policy" whenever I take some one fun fishing. First trip I tell them "first ones on me, all you need to bring is the sandwiches/snacks for lunch. On any future trips you pay half the fuel/oil for the boat". If we have along trip to the lake and they ride with me, they pay half that cost too. If its a buddy tournament I figure half the costs entry fees/fuel/oil/food/drinks whatever I paid for for the tournament and any "practice" fishing and expect non-boating partner to pay that. That is only fair if they expect to go 50/50 on any winnings. But it all needs to be spelled out and agreed upon before you register or at least before you start the trip.

I like the Avids but the only problem is $$. So using MH is ok for jerbaits? Whats the difference between using MH or M for Jerbaits? I thought having the lighter action would make it easier casting smaller sized jerkbaits? Remember Power ratings are not the same across brands. One companies MH is another's M. In general though I like a M 6'6" with a Fast or better yet XFast taper. I like how this rod sets up to work the bait and fight the fish. And Francho is right about a shorter handle. I've had "jerk bait rods" that I've cut the handle down a bit on because it was too long to "jerk" all day. JMHO

Depends; are you the boater or the co-angler? If I'm the co-angler I first find out what technique the boater likes to use and/or what he has caught fish on in pre-fish. Then based on what techniques I might face I decide what rods/reels.