Zach P

Do you find any differences with teardrop as opposed to ball?

Do you find the pencil style is hung up less when the current moves the line and this is why you use them in this situation?

Hey everyone, do you find there is any difference in casting and performance between cylindrical, ball style, and tear drop weights? I tend to use cylindrical weights, because the reservoirs where I live have tons of rock, but have been tempted to try out the other two styles recently. I fish areas without rock as well and feel that the ball and tear drop might be more affective in these areas.

Recently I've been looking into a new flippin stick for thick mats and heavy cover. I've read reviews and looked at prices and at this point I believe the Denali JC905FX is one of the best options out there for it's price. Has anyone personally used this rod that can give an honest opinion? Or is there another rod between 100-120 that anyone would recommend looking into? Thanks Edit: In addition has anyone paired a particular reel with this rod that they believe compliments it and balances well?

You have any idea where to buy those Falcon FTO Spinnerbait organizers anymore? I can't find them anywhere and love the one my friend has

I say no simply because I've seen bass follow swimbaits for a very long time before veering off or hitting them. This makes it difficult to coin them as a search bait because you may be pulling the bass away from a specific spot in the process of retrieval.

Technically this may not be a "tackle" question, but what brand of fishing gloves does everyone use for late fall/winter/early spring fishing when the weather is cold? I've seen both the half finger and fingerless gloves as well as gloves with just fingertips open. I would prefer half finger or gloves with just open fingertips.

I hear everyone in regards to trokar but the price per hook is absurd

I agree with this also, their offset hooks and finesse hooks are awesome too

Yeah I'm definitely not tryin to be skimpy but trokar and gama are over a dollar a hook. VMC seem like the best buy for the price and durability right now

I would prefer tungsten but don't mind lead

I'm in need of some 1/2, 3/4, and 1 oz bullet weights for punching mats and general pitchin/flippin. Usually these prices can get steep for heavier weights, anyone know where you can buy some in bulk for cheaper prices? They don't need to have glossy finishes or unique colors

I have actually tried VMC and they seem to work relatively well

What style and brand of straight shank flipping and Pitchin hooks does everyone use? I really can't stand paying the high prices of Trokar and Gamakatsu hooks but it doesn't seem like there is much else available.

4/0 or 5/0 Straight Shank Round Bend and make sure to tie a snell knot. I love pitchin and flippin!

Wow this IS one of the best things I've seen so far, I've removed hooks from gut hooked fish before but this seems far easier. Thanks! Also, I am with the opinion of most that not removing hooks will cause issues later on and most hooks do not go away if they are high quality.

First, let me say I don't know how many times this same exact topic has been started on threads. If it has been brought up multiple times before I apologize. The other day I was thinking back to my previous years of fishing experiences and was thinking about the number of gut hooked fish I have seen. We've all heard that the "known" fact is to release a gut hooked fish and that the hook will eventually rust away. With that in mind I've seen multiple reports and opinions that state otherwise and that gut hooked fish will eventually die due to the fact that they cannot swallow their prey. I've seen fish before that look so anemic, but I believe this is because their stomach holds a plastic lure that cannot be digested. It's because of varying opinions like these that confuse anglers, myself included. So my question is this: does anyone have any biological evidence or studies that suggest one way or another to: release a gut hooked fish with the hook (because it will rust and fall apart), or that you should cut the hook as close to the point as possible before releasing the fish, or that the fish will eventually die if the hook cannot be completely removed? All opinions and article links are welcome for this topic and I would love to hear everyone's opinion on this subject matter.

Biggest mistake I made when purchasing my first was not doing enough research. Don't simply believe that just because a reel is more expensive that it is always better. Just read reviews and ask questions (like the one you have asked) and you should have no problem finding a great reel that is priced appropriately. I personally love the BPS Pro Qualifier. It's a great reel and for 80 bucks on sale you can't beat it.

I figured a season equaled a year but you know everyone across the country has different lingo lol

Three seasons or three years?

I wouldn't call having 72 spinnerbaits a problem lol. There is no such thing as "too much" when it comes to tackle lol

Makes sense, they need to revise their action ratings then

and these specs you are referring to a fiberglass rod right? This is where it becomes confusing because the BPS crankin stick offers these specs (6'6", M power) with a fast taper. Is it the bend of the rod when you tried using it for jerkbaits that you don't like?

Has anyone here used the BPS cranking stick for jerkbait and topwater use? If so how do you like it?

Hands down #1 topwater for me is the original Spro Bronzeye frog in either all black or putty color.