Al Wolbach

I buy floro in 2000yd spools. Some of them are at least 2 years old, maybe older and have not had any problems. I do store my line in the basement.................Al

Take a look at "Knot Wars". Excellent app for knots including videos..........Al

If you don't already have one I suggest you get a good lake map now. The map will show you what you are up against and you can study it before you arrive. It's much easier to relate to info when you can see the area being discussed. Sorry I can't help, I have not fished there since the spring. I would be afraid to fish that lake without a GPS and a good lake SD card. You can get in big trouble in a hurry. Good luck to both of you...................Al

As FishinDaddy said, You can power load without much damage if you trim up the motor. I trim up until I hear the exhaust then just a touch down(watch water pressure gauge). This will lift the bow up with very little power and will not damage the end of the ramp. Boat slides easily and very little prop wash. Ramps will vary from state to state or even lake to lake. I always power load in East Tennessee because our ramps are as much as 100 yds long(water levels drop as much as 60 ft) on TVA lakes. In Florida, South Carolina, Alabama some other southern states the water is so shallow around the ramps on some lakes, power loading can cause craters at the end of the ramps. Some of these ramps even have signs saying no power loading (Camp Mack comes to mind). At these shallow ramps I will winch the boat on the trailer. The point I am trying to make is there are no hard, fast rules about power loading. Some places it's a good practice and accepted, others it can cause ramp damage, and some even have signs. Common sense should tell you the difference. But as Way2slow pointed out you need to trim up to help prevent prop damage if you power load............Al

If you are not committed to a certain hook you may want to try these..................Al http://www.basspro.com/StandOut%E2%84%A2-Hooks/product/58058/142390

I think over the years I have tried them all and now my retriever of choice is a 1oz lead weight on a paper clip that slides down your line and knocks the lure free. The others require too many hands to operate(rope, weight, spool or 10 ft pole with screw on attachment as well as your rod). And if the wind is blowing and you are trying not to run over your line with the trolling motor while staying in position, well you get the picture. My local BPS has the 1oz paper clip for around 2 bucks. And they work at any depth. For me, I prefer the K.I.S.S. method, keep it simple stupid.....................Al

I agree, the waters you fish could determine your answer to this question. I like to travel to lakes in other states and GPS has made navigating them much easier as well as safer. On my home waters I like to fish offshore structure. My answer is GPS...............Al

I had recorded that show on my DVR. Pulled it up and watched. Sure looks like a "B" to me.........Al

Can't sneak up on a dead man in that thing, but you won't be hard to find.................Very nice rig......Al

Sufix elite..................Al

No matter who made the trailer UFP probably supplied the axles and hubs. Try Unique Function Products on the web. They are very helpful. I always contact the Winchester, Tn factory and they have bent over backwards to help.........Al

Be sure to keep an eye on the water pressure gauge........................Al

Ditto- I would have thought you would have severe blowout problems if the plugs passed exhaust at speed.......Al

I fish Santee-Cooper one week every year in the spring............Al

The screws that hold the trolling motor can be tightened which causes the isolator to expand and hold the trolling motor. The isolators can be changed from the outside of the boat. Remove the screws and lift the trolling motor mount then pull out the rubber isolators. To replace them just drop the new ones into the old hole, replace the mount, replace screws and tighten. You're done. Sometimes the rubber part breaks during removal and leaves some in the fiberglass, if this happens just knock the broken part thru the hole into the boat, then replace. You can usually gain access underneath the trolling motor by removing a power panel or depth finder and snaking your arm/hand through. Most people do this and replace the isolators with stainless steel bolts/washers/nuts. I replaced isolators several times before I bolted them. No problems since.................Al

I could be wrong but I thought the plugs on the tempest plus were only for hole shot performance and had no effect on top end. Theory- Exhaust escapes thru holes and allows the prop to spin up quicker in the air bubbles and at speed all of the exhaust goes through the hub. I thought I remember reading somewhere?.......Al

This is one I have been looking at for some time.......Al http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-chargers/12-volt/marine-chargers/GEN3.html They also make a 1 and 2 bank charger.

Ditto. The advantages out weigh the disadvantages. I have been pitching with 20 lb floro for years and still must make a short cast occasionally to clear the reel..........Al

If possible I would store your dear where it is not subject to large temperature changes. Indoor would be best. Stay safe...............Al

Don't be afraid to try weird colors either. Smallmouth like strange combos like pink/purple, brown/purple etc.......Colors you normally would not use for largemouth..........Al

GMAN- Catt is correct about the type of anchor but I suggest you get at least a 20lb anchor for a 20' boat. Half inch anchor line = to 3 times the depth of water you are anchoring depending on wind/current. Most of the time 1 1/2 to 2 times the depth is plenty of line. There is a knot for attaching line to the anchor but I could not find a link to it. I believe it is called an anchor knot(Imagine that). If you have a website for knots you may want to check it...........................Al

IMHO it depends on what type of heavy cover you are talking about. If it is weeds or some type of grass I agree with Catt the worm type really doesn't matter. If the heavy cover is laydown pine, cedar tree or brush pile as is common in my area then a ribbon tail or worm with a lot of tail action will not reach the bottom as Bluebasser86 stated. The flat part of the worm will stick to some limbs like it was glued, and you can't shake it loose. In this case I like a worm like a Zoom speed worm or even a Texas rigged Senko but I normally prefer a beaver type bait for heavy cover of this type...........Al

Ditto, except mine is a St Croix..............Al

I get really nervous with anything less than 20 lb and that is flipping laydowns. In Florida I assume you are flipping grass and will need to retrieve heavy bunches of grass with each fish. I would not use anything less than 20 lb. I don't get into brands..........Al

They will need all the pain killer they can get with their football schedule.......Al