TNReb

I am looking for a new spinning rod. It will be used for smallmouth, in finesse type situations. I'm currently using an NRX 852s. I like the rod, zero complaints. I am just looking for an extra rod. I want one at least 7', and in a medium-light or medium. I'll be throwing 10lb braid, with a 6 lb fluoro leader. Spy baits, ned rigs, those sorts of things - finesse fishing in clear water. I bought a Fenwick HMG 7'6 ML, and didn't care for it. It did not cast well. The line just didn't get through the guides easily. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm thinking about a custom rod. Are there any trusted custom rod builders around here?

Sounds like we're in the same situation. I feel like I constantly run out of space in my boxes. One for senkos, lizards, worms, longer worms, light-colored trailers, dark-colored trailers, creatures, small swimbaits, large swimbaits... it's just too many boxes with too little space in each box.

I know this has been discussed before. I searched, and have seen it discussed recently. How so you store your soft plastics on your boat? I was using Plano boxes, but its taking up too much space. Each box doesn't hold many. Im thinking the best thing may be to start keeping the plastics in their original bags, but I'm looking for ideas of how to store those bags. I fish plastics a lot... lizards, worms, senkos, jig trailers, swimbaits, creature baits.... it's a lot to keep organized but readily accessible.

Does Digitaka ship from the US or Japan? I looked all over their site and couldnt confirm. If they come from Japan, how long does shipping typically take?

I don't think the FMJ is a good comparison to the 842. Different rods for different purposes.

I will continue to use the FMJ for almost all of my jigs. I'm looking for a new rod to use for weightless senkos and texas rig 1/8oz + 6" worm or 1/4oz + 10" worm. Nothing real heavy.

I'm actually selling the GLX 893. I probably should have mentioned that! I just don't like the length of it much. In most scenarios, I'd rather have something a few inches shorter. I'm torn on a shorter 3-power GLX/NRX or the Daemos.

I'm looking for a new rod for light-medium texas rigs and whacky senkos. I have the Destroyer FMJ, and am considering the Daemos. It's a little scary ordering one without being able to get my hands on it first. Any thoughts? My current texas rig rods are a GLX 893C and a Mossyback BCR853. I like the sensitivity and extra fast action of both, but I am not crazy about the full grip of the Mossyback and the general ergonomics of the GLX.

Im looking for a 7'6 Heavy rod for throwing jigs and swim baits from 3/4 - 1oz. Anyone have any thoughts about these two? I have a Hammer 7'3 MH and like it. I've never used one of the Lew's. I'm open to other suggestions under $200.

I appreciate the tips!

In the past I've fished shallow water, to a fault. When summer gets here, I don't catch decent fish. I realize I need to learn to fish offshore. I have good fish finders, and generally know how to use them. Obviously I could improve and that will come by spending more time on them. My home lake is Old Hickory. When I try to learn ledge fishing, I just get discouraged. I identify ledges near where creeks cut odd the main channel. Often it's 4-5 ft dropping to 20-25ft. I'm looking for any sort of structure on these, any sort of signs that fish are there. I'm just not having any luck. One of my biggest questions is should I be looking at the main river channel? There are places with flats 4ft deep that drop off to 50ft. Should I be looking on these? Or is it too drastic of a ledge?

I appreciate the input. I'll make sure and try a different head tomorrow. It now seems like it's most likely user error. I was cranking it along with pretty good speed (on an 8.2:1 reel also).

I fished a scrounger for the first time a couple of weeks ago while on a trip with Mike Carter on Guntersville. We talked about how the lure wobbled... I bought a pack for myself, but realized mine don't wobble. They spin. My line gets really twisted. I tried a couple different plastics on them, including the second Zoom Flukes I used with Mike. Am I missing something? Obviously I could add a swivel, but it isn't SUPPOSED to spin...

My neighbor bought a bass boat last year. We fished the heck out of that thing all summer/fall. After duck season, he was ready to get back to fishing. I talked him in to trying crappie one day. He only had bass rods (nice ones too). I said don't worry - I have some light spinning rods we can use. Well, he goes to WalMart instead and buys two $20 combos. He didn't even bother changing the line on them. That line had so much memory, he was constantly tangled in knots. He had a big mess and said "as soon as I get this knot undone I'm going to chunk this piece of junk right in the water". A couple minutes later he gets the tangles out and reels in his line. Next thing I know he chucks that rod like a spear straight across the lake. I about died laughing. Before our next attempt, he went to Bass Pro and bought two nicer rod & reels. One of them snapped 10 minutes in to our fishing trip!! (nobody's fault.. I think the rod was already cracked or something)

Anyone have any experience with this model? https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/lews-tournament-laser-classic-speed-spool-slp-baitcast-reel They appear to only be sold at Academy. I need 3 new baitcasters, and I'm partial to Lews but I don't know anything about this one. I picked one of these up for $70 today when I saw them on clearance. I know it's a graphite frame instead of aluminum. I'm just trying to decide whether to rig it up and fish it, or return it.

Ok... I'll ask... why is that a non-issue? I'm not the kind of guy that gets to fix numerous times a week. I hate spending good money to spool up the reel with fluoro, then 5 weeks later it's loopy from only being used a few times. Am I missing something? Or are you just one of the folks lucky enough to fish more often than me so your line isn't sitting on the reel for long periods?

Thanks. It may not have been fully charged. I have it on a charger tonight and will keep an eye on it the next couple times out.

I've recently purchased my first boat, so please forgive the ignorance... I have two batteries for the trolling motor, and another crank battery. My LED deck lights and LED black lights are hooked to the trolling motor battery. I have a Solix 12 hooked to the crank battery. I rarely fish all day. 8 hours is a long trip for me. Should I consider moving the Solix to the trolling motor batteries, or add a 4th battery? I went out for the first time with the Solix today. After about 2 hours I got an alarm than the battery voltage was 9.8. I cranked the motor and putted around for a while. The voltage came back to 12.1. I've got the crank battery on a charger tonight. The last thing I want to happen is for my fish finder to kill my crank battery.

I recently bought have an 2004 Triton TR186 and it has a Humminbird 788ci (transducer is in the hull), as well as the two original Lowrance units at the helm and bow. I'm going to pull the 788ci and put new Humminbirds on the boat. One at the helm, one at the bow. I am going to put a Solix Mega at the helm - either a 9, 10, or 12. I may put a smaller unit at the bow to save money. I know some people prefer larger units up front, but I want a large unit at the helm - just my preference. Questions.... 1. Two transducers for Solix at helm? I talked to another guy today who has a similar set up as what I'm describing. He has the Mega transducer attached to the unit at the helm, and said he loses information (depth, etc) over 5mph. He said he doesn't care because he uses the maps to watch depth and doesn't use any sort of imaging except when idling. That may work for him, but I want to be able to always see my depth. I don't care about side imaging running 30mph, but I want to know how deep the water is - always. I could keep the old Lowrance unit in the dash turned on if I had to. It just seems silly to me to have a nice unit like the Solix and not be able to get depth readings while running about. What are the odds I can plug the old 2D transducer (from the hull) in to the Solix along with the Mega to keep my depth readings? If that's possible, will I need to purchase a separate "splitter" or something of that nature? 2. Networking Solix with Helix If I chose a Helix 9 Mega/Side for the bow, it looks like I can't network that with the Solix 12 at the helm and share imaging. Is that correct? If it's not possible, I have two options: A.) Put a Solix at the helm like I want and put my old Garmin 7SV at the bow. B.) Put a Solix at the helm and a Helix up front, and understand they won't bet networked. I'm not too concerned about sharing waypoints and such from one to the other - so I don't really know why I would need them networked. If they aren't networked, I assume I'd have to purchase two separate map cards? That'd stink. Appreciate any input & advice!

I didn't know the prop was bent when I posted that. We never saw the log, even after I hit it. I'm convinced it was a rock now. We weren't going fast though, no lying about that part. It was a little bitty area, it wouldn't even be possible to be going fast in there.

Thanks for the input, everyone. I love this place!

Thanks. Performance Propeller is only about 20 min from me and seems to have positive reviews. Will touch base with them in the morning.

Update... Got the prop off. Shaft spins when in neutral, but not when I'm gear. That's a positive. Hub definitely appears to be stripped. Unfortunately, the prop is also a little bent. How serious does that look? Am I looking at a new prop? Is a competent marine shop able to shape it up?

Thanks! Will try in a couple hours.

Thanks for the input. I just ran out and checked... in neutral I can spin the prop freely with my hand. In gear, I can still spin it, but it's a little harder. Not a lot harder, but a little. Sounds like it may be what you're describing. I'll pull it tonight and check with the local marine shop in the morning.