adam lancia

You'll be just fine with the SV, it's very difficult to mess up a cast with that spool.

Strangely enough, I haven't found bass to be picky about colour when they want a fluke. Maybe I'm staying in the colour range enough that they don't care enough not to bite. It IS tempting to get all the colours that we think will work though, I feel your pain there!

The owner was trying to sell the company but I don't think he was able to find a buyer.

Ichiban Tackle, Bass.jp, plat.co.jp are all pretty good as well.

Yeah, just run a longer leader, as long as the rod you're using has big enough guides for whichever leader knot you're good at tying.

Other advantages I have read about simple spirals is that you can often get away with 1 guide less, and since the guides are on the bottom of the rod you don't have to be concerned about the line passing under the blank with a deep bend in the rod (as with a conventional guides2 on top layout). I'm purposely holding on to a couple of 2 piece rods to try a lazy mans simple spiral out, just have to rotate the tip section and slap a bumper guide on.

Does anyone know when FLW and Bassmaster will be publishing their 2015 TV shows of the tournaments online? I found a few years worth of their shows on youtube and binge watched, not I'm suffering from withdrawal. Thanks!

If you're a Daiwa fan then I would say to try a PX68, it's really capable in stock form.

Check the spool pin. If it's bent, replace it and see if the clicking goes away.

I'm happy that this topic has come up several times since I first came across this knot. I tried it again, using both the untensioned (Aussie guy) approach and the tensioned braid while weaving the leader through. That has worked for me this time (tried it last time and failed miserably) once I figured out that I don't need to keep a ton of tension on the braid, but that it's very important to pull the leader taught and straight after each over and under wrap around the braid. Between that and making sure the weaves are stacked up tight against each other before the half hitches has worked wonders. I haven't tried tying it with really light line yet but it's on my to do list.

^^^^ This. Because it's thick braid, you'll actually use less line and have more space between the line as it layers onto the spool. Once you have a good backing of that on, then put your main line on, be it 20# or whatever you end up going with. Did you get the deep or shallow SV1000 spool?

It's a great deal, especially considering it's in pretty good shape and that spool alone would cost me $75.

Lightly polishing the tips of the spool will help that to some degree.

I paid $112 including EMS shipping from Japan, it has the Steez 103 spool in it though, the one with the Type R+ inductor.

With a little more line on the spool, it'll cast lures further because it won't slow down as quickly. If you go before a quarter oz then you'll want the fast start up of a more finesse oriented spool to make casting those lighter lures easier. A quarter oz lure shouldn't have any trouble getting the deeper spool started.

I haven't been able to fish lately which has meant that all I have been able to do is think about fishing... The results of all that *thinking*: ZPI RC-001S http://m.ebay.ca/itm/USED-ZPI-RC-001S-LB-TECHNO-FORMULA-SPOOL-BLUE-/351456241518?txnId=712388829022 Daiwa RCS 1012 spool http://m.ebay.ca/itm/USED-DAIWA-RCSB-1012-Spool-J0101G5501088-/271951748766?txnId=1516531424017 Daiwa SLP spool pin tool http://m.ebay.ca/itm/DAIWA-SLP-WORKS-SPOOL-BEARING-REMOVER-NIB-/391203059447?txnId=567823801026 TD-Z 103 ML with Steez 103 spool http://www.ichibantackle.com/viewbigimage.asp?imagepath=picture/tdz103ml_0723_2_2.jpg Then there are the ZPI RC-002S and Steez 105 SV spools that I found on one of the forums I frequent. Now I'm on the hunt for a couple of rods... It's a vicious but fun circle ;-)

SV 1000 deep is the way to go for + 1/4 oz. You won't regret the decision.

You guys are really making me want to revisit this knot...

Your reel is likely just fine. If you bought it new, you should have gotten a schematic breakdown of the reel. If not, you'll be able to find it online with a Google image search. As for your regular maintenance questions: I would oil the bearings sometime mid season, any light oil will be fine just don't saturate them. A small duo on each is all you need. Is this the only reel you use or do you have a few of them? You don't need to fully tear down the reel to oil the bearings, it isn't a major job by any means. When you pull the handle side plate off, have a look at how much grease is on the gears. If they have a light coat of grease on them then they're fine. If they look kind of dry then you should grease them. You don't need anything special for this either, although I found some synthetic grease on Amazon from Tri-Flow that is supposed to be water proof and corrosion resistant. I'd be willing to bet that just about any bearing grease would be fine. You don't need to apply a ton of grease to the gears, just paint a light coat on with a small brush. If you get used to taking apart your reel, you can do the deep cleaning yourself at home rather than sending it out. If you're not comfortable with that, DVT (Delaware Valley Tackle) is a great guy to deal with and also a site sponsor.

You could use it for spinner/buzz/chatterbaits and lipless cranks.

Broken graphite golf clubs are supposed to work quite well too.

How do you do that? And what material do you use? PM me if you prefer, thanks!

Thanks! Now I need to relate another reel to other duties... Or buy another rod.. :-D

Wow!