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I sure thought I had read a page somewhere on using the Ned rig under a float bobber but I have searched via Google more than once and cannot find anything. Did I dream this or do some use it this way? I remember thinking wow, now, that is error-free. Still searching for a way for my gf rookie to cast something that will catch fish in cover-filled lake but doesn't require skill.

RSM789, are you in CA? I just got in yesterday the exact same setup you fished. My lakes have a lot of cover; I am hesitant to fish open hook. Did you fish open hook? I wish they sold those in weedless jigs. Your results are indeed impressive, what a day!

Sometimes I hang up a bait and usually the water is shallow enough I can get it off but sometimes, not. I wonder about using a bait knocker type deal. Here is one I have never seen -- http://www.***.com/Jewel_Bait_Hound_Dog_Lure_Retriever/descpage-JBHDLR.html. Have you found one that works?

Still searching for something besides a spinnerbait my gf can cast and catch fish in water that has cover (trees, snags, stumps, grass, weeds, moss). Some of these plastics can be swam back to the boat and catch some fish but it has to be weedless but she does not yet get setting the hook. What do you think is the best weedless method/rig that is NOT Texas rig? Exposed hook would be best for hookups but it's impossible on our water. I have not used many weedless setups other than Texas rigged plastics. I could buy hooks with the wire or mono loop that goes over the hook or there are jigheads with a couple of stout plastic stickup thingies that help deflect some stuff. I fear that moss would get caught on that a lot but I guess we'd have to live with it if it caught fish.

Strike King makes a Rage Cut-R-worm, right? Is that what you mean or is rage-rigged something else?

What makes this line 'special?' Why use it instead of another type of line?

I usually use a palomar but I tied an improved clinch knot on braid. An expensive spinner bait. Caught a jackfish (chain pickerel) and lost him and the bait. Got the line back and it was not conclusive... I figured his teeth cut the line... but there was a little curly cue on the end of the line and I thought... hmmm... this looks like it could be caused by tying the knot. Meaning the knot failed? I have read that many people do use improved clinch knot on braid. I am wondering... how much tag end should you have on this knot. I had very little, like probably less than 1/16". How much? How much for a palomar tag end? I do not think that I wet the line when I cinched it down. I haven't been doing that but I am going to start. That bait was about $9. I am hoping it was just his teeth. Those fish love a spinner bait.

What does back reel mean?

Does the bait claim to reduce throw it outs? EDIT: I found this: "There are several reasons why Megastrike designed the StrikeBack Spinnerbait’s mid section to be jointed. With the head being stationary and the tail section being loose, the bait will vibrate more than a solid bodied spinner bait. With the StrikeBack Spinnerbait, the tail section swings freely 180 degrees and the fish inhales just the hook section into its mouth. When the bass gets hooked—it will instinctively jump to try to dislodge the bait. If the bait is in one piece and is stationary, this allows the bait to have the leverage to be thrown." Hmmm... interesting!

I went fishing today, been catching them, caught 15 last time at this small lake. But, they weren't biting the usual plastic worm. I threw a spinner bait and in ten minutes, lost two bass. Both of them jumped and threw the lure. Aargh. Part of it is, I like to feel them pull and I can horse them in quicker if I want to. I could get horsey with them when they jump. Jumps aren't good, lol, except they look good. Anyway, it made me think... that spinner bait, due to its construction, heavy head, gives the bass leverage to throw it. I wonder if it's the easiest lure for a bass to throw.

Speaking of soft plastics. If it's swallowed, can you get the hook out? Will the fish survive? What if you see blood? Hmmm... could mash the barb down, that would help. I keep bass for eating but release some and want them to survive.

You fished one fish for six hours? Can you elaborate?

Anyone recommend Bass Master Academy? It's about $18/yr for video instruction. Wonder if it's worthwhile.

Yep, lockable rod box length is mandatory info for me. Live well capacity, too. War Eagle is another brand I looked at recently. Probably couple of others.

I don't know enough about this to know what I want but after viewing the screenshots sticky thread, it confirmed to me that one can identify actual fish if you know enough about how to use it and have a good unit. I don't know what the learning curve is on how to fine tune the unit and interpret it, but I guess I would be willing to give it a go. I have some money saved up and can spend whatever is needed, within reason. I'm buying a cheap used 17' Tracker bass boat that is in great condition. Saving a bundle versus buying new or other used ones I looked at. As for the front unit, I don't know that it has to be super sophisticated. Mostly concerned about showing depth. A depth unit could be had for $150 or less. But I don't know much about this. Perhaps I need a better unit up front than I think I do. I assume that the most high tech one would need to be at the console? For that one, I'd be willing to spend whatever it takes to get great images. It's pretty fascinating what a trained eye can see.

Wayne, you are to be commended for sharing your knowledge and your images! I think I saw where this thread began couple of years ago? Have there been tech enhancements since then? Is your model considered pretty state of the art? If not, what would you buy today? Do you consider your finder a must-have tool for you? Is there an appreciable difference in a unit that costs around $2,000+- versus one that costs $3,000 or more? Thanks.

I don't see any screenshots.

Try ***, sure looks good, I think it uses Trokar hooks. Find their video.

Like everything else these days, there are so many choices! How the heck do you choose a fishfinder? I am buying a used boat next week and the fishfinder doesn't work. I want one for the console, as well as up front. If I don't like the boat, I would sell it and buy another, so, hopefully, fishfinders would move to another boat okay. Do you just use yours for depth or depth and temp? Do you ever use it to actually see fish? Do you use GPS and if so, in what way? Please describe how you use yours and if you have advice, it's appreciated. There may no need to buy top of the line but I don't mind spending some money on this. What do you think is necessary?

I thought Strike King finesse elaztech worms are supposed to be floaters, period? Their promo blurb says they float. Hmmm.

I read quite a bit of this thread and then realized it is 9 years old! Do people still like the Fat Ika? What hook do you use? Do you find a more effective soft plastic bait than Fat Ika? I have been using flukes, weightless, with success. As well as SK Finesse Elaztech worm on shakey head jig. I had been using Fluke but caught 15 yesterday on the latter.

I like. Strike King also makes some products with elaztech. I use their finesse worms with shakeyhead jig, really like the rig, it catches bass, good hookset percentage.

moved

When you fish a weedless worm, what do you do to increase your odds of a good hook set? Do you do/use anything different for non-weighted soft plastics, such as a weightless Fluke? Do you let the bass "take it" or set the hook at first detection or what? Do you favor a certain type of equipment? Getting a bite is great but we gotta hook 'em up! And then boat them.

You use a 6-16' leader. What dictates the length? What fluorocarbon line do you like? Considering trying a leader with my 832 Sufix. I fish in cover, throwing at Cypress trees, laydowns, vegetation, will need to be heavier line. (Not sure what to try.)