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Those of you who said Senko, especially, fished weightless, do you think it is superior to a plastic worm and, if so, why? Does Senko float off the bottom or have some 'special' characteristic? And if you vote for Senko, have you ever tried a Super Fluke? The fluke has this darting action and the slow sink. I have not used Senko much. So little, I can't recall what's special about it but I know they must catch a bunch because some people sure like them.

By Meeny Spin, do you mean the Meeny with a spinner blade? That would be similar to what I said about a Beetle Spin.

In your bassing career, has any lure performed so well to catch numbers of bass (not giant trophy bass) that it amazed you? And you had periods of time that it seemed it's about all you needed to use? For years, a simple black plastic worm was my staple. A small bullet slip sinker. Local lakes are not deep. Several years ago, same thing happened with the Super Fluke plastic bait. I fish it weightless. The darting slow sink action seems irresistible. If I never had anything but a watermelon red Super Fluke, I could fish confidently. Local lakes are dingy color. I have a friend who only pond fishes and does well and only fishes a black plastic worm; I think it is a Strike King Trick worm or maybe it's Finesse model. I doubt that even matters... any good black plastic worm would likely deliver. All of the above, Texas-rigged, completely weedless. We have lots of logs/trees/brush in the water here. If I had to have a 3rd mention, something that I would feel confident casting as my only lure, it would be a black beetle spin with the yellow stripes, I guess that is catalpa coloring. But No. 1 for me is the Super Fluke.

I see an inline fuel filter in the 1997 Tracker (Mercury) motor and it doesn't look like it has hose clamps, it looks like cable ties! If Tracker used these in 1997, that means this fuel filter has never been changed. Do you snip these off and replace or how do you get these off to change filters?

Why AGM? I have never owned anything other than the usual marine battery but I'm open! An advantage of lithium is when fishing in a pond jumper boat or kayak... if they have lower weight, that's good because regular batteries sure are heavy!

I haven't bought a marine battery in two or three years, has anything changed regarding what people are buying? For cranking batteries and also trolling batteries. Wow... I just came across a lithium trolling battery. Expensive up front cost but, hmmm... lithium trolling

Anyone know the method to drain and purge all fuel out of my motor? I have not found it from a google search. (I really don't want to sacrifice my squeeze bulb line unless I have to.) I can siphon the gas out, but beyond that, what?

I took the plugs out and they look bad. Weird, they don't have a side electrode such that it forms a gap with a center electrode. I don't know what this type of plugs are called. They are Champion L78V (833M is another number). I will replace. They are $3/ea at auto parts store and $6 at Basspro. Like most rigs these days, for this motor, you put the oil in the top into a reservoir and it mixes it with the gas in the motor, it does not use a premix. Do you think this oil could go 'bad?' It's been in there 2 or 3 years now! (Comes in a silver gallon jug from Basspro, it is Quicksilver Premium 2Stroke oil.) I suppose there is a way to drain it out and refill. Wonder if I can find an online manual!

That is a good point about the 4stroke being heavier, didn't think of that. I just missed a dream deal yesterday. Saw a FBMP post that was put on there only 14 hours earlier. I called about it and the seller responded an hour later. I was doing some research and then was notified one hour after that that the boat had sold. Before I could even get back to him! Dang, this makes me mad. Not the first time it's happened over the years. You see something posted that's a good deal, you better get in front of the buyer right away and worry about questions and answers when you're there!

Do you mean it's a tight market, not much available? Due to covid?

From time to time, I consider replacing the 40hp Tracker (Mercury) motor on my 1997 Tracker Pro Team 17 ft boat with a new motor of the max rating, 70hp. Rather enchanted with a 4stroke but I am open to that or 2stroke. But then do you think I could sell the 40hp motor, assuming it's in good, running condition? If I had a 70 installed, would it require all new controls, wiring, cables? If my motor still had the tiller handle, it would be easier to sell but it doesn't have that. I dunno how much a new 70 installed would cost but I bet it would be $9k to $10k, maybe more. Don't know yet if this idea will dollar up decently. Other option is forget it, sell this boat and motor and buy another rig more to my liking. Having trouble thinking of buying a new boat cuz like new pickup trucks (which I also need), they are so high! I'd sure shop for used! My boat with me, alone, will go 29mph tops. I would think a 70hp would do 40mph. Speed is not my top issue but 40mph would be nice. I really just want a quiet motor that cranks every time and I don't have to have 70hp but if I were to replace, might max it out while doing it! If I put, say, a 50hp on it, it would probably bump it to, say, 33mph. Maybe somebody will say a 70 would be a bit impractical. But the boat is rated 70hp. Do you think I could sell the 40? What do you think of replacing a motor?

I am wondering if I need to drain the gas from my tank and clean it out. Does anyone ever clean a gas tank, is it something that is sometimes done? What is easiest way to drain it? How could you clean it? It's a 1997 Bass Tracker with 40hp Tracker (Mercury) motor. My motor is hard to crank. I have had some periods of time when it cranked and ran well but it can get ornery. Like now, after not using it much at all for 2 years. Wondering if crud got stirred up. Other than that, does anyone know if it's easy to replace the fuel filter? I bought this boat used a few years ago and I am not sure but I don't recall doing that.

I need a boat cover for a 1997 bass tracker pro team 17, a 17' aluminum tracker with 40hp Tracker (Mercury) motor. I don't want to spend a lot because so many covers are really expensive and I will likely sell this boat next spring. I am spoiled from buying a Cabelas brand cover for my 19' fiberglass bassboat that is awesome and I only paid $150 for it last year when it went on closeout! It has worked great. For the Bass tracker pro team 17, any ideas? I would like to buy right now if possible. I found one that *might* fit and it's only $129 but for all I know, it might be garbage. We get heavy winter rains and this boat will be outside. I just want a cover to keep leaves and rain out; this boat is no showpiece but it's in pretty darn good condition other than a soiled carpet spot. I found one at Basspro but it's $370 on sale and that is just too much. Heck, if would work, I would even consider wrapping a huge tarp around it! EDIT: Boat will be stationary, I won't travel with the cover.

Slonezp, thanks much, will contact you soon!

$350 to $450 is a price I see at Basspro and other places and that's too much. I see much less elsewhere. I actually contacted the guy I bought the 19' Progator from and he said he bought another, smaller boat, a 17' Tracker, and the former owner gave him some kind of tarp with reinforced grommet holes and says it works better than his previous covers. I hope to see what he is using.

Hello, I have not had good luck with covers. The canvas one I had for tracker 17 ft boat with 40hp Merc mildewed, finally rotted, threw it away. This year, I added a used 19 ft Progator with 150 Merc; I don't know how old the cover is, bought the rig used, cover probably only a year old, if that. It tore a big slit sideways, had to throw it away. It was not made of canvas, it was thinner material. I hope to sell one of these boats. If so, I will be able to store under my carport. A cover is nice even there, though. Leaves fly in, bugs. But if I don't sell, I gotta store one outside. Can anyone recommend a good cover that doesn't cost a bunch? Rains quite a bit here, 54 inches/yr. Don't want to spend a lot, heck, I might sell both boats, lol. I got friends with boats and I don't fish much anymore.

I am pretty good at it, but it still might take, like last time, getting in and out of the truck 3-4 times. I also have those yellow ball telescoping things and they help, for sure, I just forget to put them on, it seems. The camera seems a good thing, as you can also use it to make sure you aren't about to run over something. I have wanted that for a new dog I have. Here is one by Yada... https://www.target.com/p/yada-174-wireless-backup-camera-with-5-dash-monitor/-/A-50801472?ref=tgt_adv_XS000000&AFID=google_pla_df&CPNG=PLA_Home+Improvement+Shopping&adgroup=SC_Home+Improvement&LID=700000001170770pgs&network=g&device=c&location=9025440&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkKPVBRDtARIsAA2CG6EFmX9BsXdTErfORuyAvIdJl3oQSF4869qLjyQZVnfIRF1uagrcDWAaAlgXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I second the notion... have an extra cord that you pull the troll motor up and out of the water with. And any attendant bolt or nut. It would be good to just have a little box with troll motor spare parts, labeled as such! Been there, done that.

Can you tell me where the circuit breakers should be? Also, how do I tell if it's 6 gauge? Would you think a 1997 Bass Tracker would have 6 gauge wire?

My 1997 Bass Tracker 17' with 40hp Tracker outboard (Mercury) has a 12v 37-lb thrust troll motor. It pushes it ok except in wind, and it's also sloppy and clanky and noisy. I might buy a larger Minn Kota, probably would have to go to 24v motor to get appreciably more thrust. Say, a 65 lb thrust Maxxum. That should push my boat pretty good if I want to motor between trees to cast to. Currently, the battery cables are at the back of the boat where the gas tank is. First question is... does a 24v motor require different wiring? Troll motor is bow mount, foot pedal controlled. Second question... If I go to a 24v motor, that requires two batteries. It will be tight but it appears to me that I can fit them both in the back. So, it will be one cranking battery and two troll batteries next to the gas tank. And I think I can fit a 3-bank onboard charger in there. Do you think having 3 batteries instead of 2 will raise the bow noticeably, is this a concern?

Why EFI? What is so good about it? (I don't know, lol. Is it more reliable or what? I assume you mean electronic fuel ignition.) Why Ultrex with cable? Why do you prefer cable? I am in need of a new troll motor on my present boat. I can make do but my old motor is sloppy. And not powerful enough.

I fished for years out of a jon boat. Had a 10hp outboard and trolling motor on transom. With me alone fishing transom first using troll motor, spun badly. With partner, not bad. You need weight up front (battery and maybe even ballast... somebody said two batteries, good idea) and fish transom first. You might also make yourself a rudder to screw on up front with a clamp that will serve kinda like a keel for when you fish backwards, transom first. The Pelican Bass Raider uber-long, years-long thread has a lot of info on that. But you'd have to read hundreds of posts to find it! OTOH, I'd try to figure out a way to mount a bow mount troll motor and put a rudder on back.

I have never used the newer technology batteries, AGM or whatever they're called. All I know is they cost more. Do you think they are better and if so, why? Also, if you were outfitting a new this-is-my-last-boat boat, what type would you put in there for cranking and for 24v trolling setup? If it matters, I fish in north Louisiana.

Can someone tell me what this is... behind the transom of this SeaArk Catfish 180... the two metal structures on the water side. Like, big metal tabs sticking out. What are these for?

Wow, the SeaArk Rivercat 180 has beam of 95"! The War Eagle 860 beam is 82". That's 1'3" wider beam on the Rivercat. That sounds great, and in some ways it is, but I fish a lot of timber and getting between trees with a boat that wide... hmmm. Then again, maybe it's length of boat that is the issue with that 'problem.' The SeaArk also is 28" deep, that's deep. The War Eagle 860 is 26" deep. SeaArk has 975lb boat weight. I don't know what it is on War Eagle 860, catalog doesn't say. I guess some people would say the SeaArk .125 gauge hull thickness is 'better' than the .100 gauge on the War Eagle 860. The SeaArk has a max hp rating of 140. War Eagle, it's 115. This SeaArk Rivercat 180 is a boat I have looked at before, the layout could work.