MickD

If you think you really need 20 pound braid, go with premium braid, 8-12 strands in order to get good casting performance. Those using 10 pound braid know what I mean. The lighter stuff casts so much better than most 20 pound braids, but the premiums do very well. Look at line diameters, and don't go over about .006 for best casting performance. I use from 10-15 pound braid most of the time, and with premium FC leaders of up to 15 pound test to avoid the fragility of some of the lighter stuff. Use one of the smaller knots like FG or Alberto when using the leaders of about 15 and above.

Agree with Mike K. Give it a try, but finish with aggressive wiping with a clean paper towel or other lint free device. While many have had no trouble with alcohol as a last step before epoxying, the experts do not recommend the final step as being any liquid. So I would clean it up, wipe it dry, wipe it again to make sure no lint, then re-wrap.

Will find out, I guess. Using manufacturers' power ratings is frustrating. I have ML blanks/rods that measure less than 15 CCS ERN (effective rod number) number, and one that measures 20. I have Med power rods that measure between 16 and 25 and one blank from one of the biggest blank makers in the country that is called Med power and it's about 11. Because it's supposedly a "drop shot" rod its rating is skewed by the intended use. Only when you use CCS and get actual, measured, objective NUMBERS will you know exactly what the power and action of your rods are. With respect to the rod I am going to use, remember that a friend already uses that rod for BFS and likes how it works. By the way its action is described as "fast," but I'm sure most would consider it moderate-fast after fishing it. Its CCS action number puts it below what I would consider fast.

You are basing this on the ML rating of the rod. I have CCS numbers which tell me it's more like what most would call L. And I have the rod in spin and have experience with it, so know what it can do. Thanks for your opinion. Do you do CCS on your rods? No. I'm not stupid.

It does for spin, so why not for BFS? Thinking neds and small cranks, but basically just wanting to experience the technique and have an excuse to build another rod.

I'm all set on a rod, will build a Rainshadow walleye spin blank into the casting rod, 7 ' 2" ML, ModFast. A friend uses that one and loves it.

Regarding what reels I currently have, a couple Daiwa Tatula SV 103's, if I remember correctly. I've never gotten into changing spools or bearings. I really appreciate all the participation in this question of mine. I'm learning.

what is plat?

I know we have a bunch of BFS experts on the forum, and I'm interested in getting into it, but I confess to be very confused by the reel offerings on Digitaka, and am thinking of just going Daiwa SVTW 70 from TW. I would appreciate your current opinions on reels. TIA

I believe that going up in size will generally increase bending strength, but strength is not the only issue, and most likely greater gains in strength come from moving up an "X." Also, going up may result in the front and rear hooks tangling on some lures. Also, some lures are designed for a certain weight hook, so any changes may affect that. But try out what you think is the best and see if it works.

Posted in the wrong listing, should probably be moved.

The heavy duty ones I bought, many years ago for salmon fishing, to correct the split ring failures of the shock strike of king salmon, are visually thicker, stouter, than other split rings. I don't know the strength numbers, but never had one fail and they are easy to identify by appearance.

There are "heavy duty" split rings, too. You can hardly open them, so they would be plenty strong. 7# is a gamble, IMO.

Based on your pic, I assume you've been robbing banks again. 🙂

Fuego is a great reel for about $100, great for beginners. No need to spend hundreds of dollars not knowing if the interest will stick or not.