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MickD

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About MickD

  • Birthday 01/07/1941

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Laingsburg, MI
  • My PB
    Between 6-7 lbs
  • Favorite Bass
    Smallmouth
  • Favorite Lake or River
    Saginaw Bay, MI and Lake St. Clair
  • Other Interests
    Computer, photography, tennis, hunting.

Profile Fields

  • About Me
    Retired automotive engineer, rod builder, fly tier , low level computer geek, Lions member.  danekm@aol.com

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MickD's Achievements

  1. Nope. Only build with Fuji or Alps, SIC or Zirconia rings.
  2. I think that is still true whenever the G L name is mentioned in connection to a rod blank or rod.
  3. I use mostly 4's for running guides using 15 pound test braid and 15 pound teste FC leader with an "improved" Alberto knot. Improved by adding a tightly tied half hitch to the braid tag end up against the knot. Ensures reliability without making the knot larger. For the lines I use a double uni doesn't clear well. If you want to see the difference in recovery speed from deflection between different guide sizes run TNF (True Natural Frequency) on the different combinations. On most blanks you'll find that the reduction guide size/weight has little to no effect, but the running guides do. Lighter the better.
  4. https://anglersresource.net/kr-guide-placement-software/ This software works very well. I don't even test cast any more; it always makes a great rod. One thing you might consider is that if you build with the 20H 10H 5.5M (I've never used the 5.5L) you can go up in reel size and line from any plan that set you up for 16-8-5,5 and it will work just fine with both the lighter and heavier line, smaller or larger reel. The difference in weight is IMO negligible since it is not on the tip. Unless I'm building an ultra light that is unlikely to ever be used with heavier line or bigger reels, I go 20-10-5.5 for its versatility.
  5. NRX is nothing out of the ordinary for good builders. Lots of premium blanks out there that are at least the equivalent, and the details can be whatever the buyer prefers. I personally don't like the grips/seats/handles etc of Loomis. I think my designs are better. And I do not build for anyone other than family and me.
  6. For breaking off a snag which is likely many feet away from the rod? I don't want to lose that much braid when I get snagged. Yes, good braid scissors are necessary when rigging or cutting out snarls, but I'm not about to lose that much braid to a snag. I also don't think it wise to leave a long length of braid in the water where it can get fouled in motor props. This tool is very good, I have a number of them. When rinsed, they don't mind salt water either. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Boomerang_Tool_Company_Snip_Line_Cutter/descpage-BOOMS.html
  7. There will be no damage to the rod or reel. If having to break off a snag just point your rod at the snag, take up line as much as possible, put your finger on the spool to prevent it from turning, and pull to break off. After doing this, make sure the braid has not imbedded on the spool and is free to come off for the next cast. I've never had a cut from braid. Flouro or mono, doesn't matter. I use premium 15 pound flouro fly tippet/leader material because it's stiffer and works best with stuff like blades. If your rod does not have micro guides then use the double uni knot to connect the leader to the braid. Easy peasy and reliable. I suggest buying premium braid, at least 8 fibers instead of the usual 4. You'll pay more, but it lasts for years, so not to worry. Premium 8 (or more) fiber braid casts farther, fewer wind knots, worth the money. do this right and you'll never go back to mono. For anything. Any questions I can help with just message me. Best colors where I fish are Canada Craw and Goby Bryant. Yes, but there it is nowhere near braid for feeling the bite, sensitivity, and long casts for the same pound test. You can cast as far with 20 pound premium braid as you can with 6 pound flouro/mono.
  8. I think that the detailed design work on balance and action are not easily copied. Yes, the exterior is a piece of cake to copy, but I don't think that is as important as what has been done inside. I could be wrong, not being a bait designer or builder, but that is my opinion.
  9. If one really hates capitalism, then a move to Russia, China, Viet Nam, Iran. . . . The message is clear.
  10. Unless you have objective measurements of power and action, all this talk is mostly conjecture based on flawed descriptions. CCS numbers give actual, objective , power and action numbers. ERN is what is used for power, Effective Rod Number. It's sort of like the line weight numbers for fly rods. I have a rod which was described by one of the most popular blank makers in the US, marketed by a legendary rod designer, that is called "medium" power , and its ERN is less than 15. I have a rod which is described by another highly respected blank maker, who by the way gives CCS numbers, described as "medium light" power, and its ERN is 20. I have another rod described by one of the most respected rod companies in the US as "medium" power, and its ERN is 16.9. IMHO the less than 15 is a little underpowered for bass, the 16.9 is just fine, as is the 20.
  11. Maybe bad choice of words. The cost to repair the engines exceeded what I was willing to pay rather than invest a little more and go new.
  12. Sarcasm alert! The straight answer to your question is yes, cologne, perfume, sunscreen, etc, all are a negative influence on getting bass to strike. Depends on the strength, of course. If you want to encourage bass then no scent. Some contend that for bonefish one should pick some sand from the flat being fished and rub it between his hands. Scent is significant.
  13. What you are getting here is a lot of opinion based on varying experiences, not scientifically proven advice. So here's mine: I don't think there is a significant difference in performance or durability of 87 and 89 octane fuel IF the engine does not knock on 87. So I believe the octane argument is moot since your engine works fine on 87. I also believe that since ethanol is basically and unarguably a negative for fuel lines AND the engines themselves (I have had two devices totaled by ethanol according to the shop) I use and recommend ethanol-free fuel whenever it's available. I would keep using the additives since they have been successful for so long even with ethanol fuel. There is no down side except cost to 89 octane ethanol-free fuel.
  14. Nope, all mentioned have them. If buying NFC blanks to build into rods be aware that many of them, unless you get the "mirror finish" option, have ridges that some builders, especially new ones, find troublesome when wrapping the guides. Amtak and RS are smooth.
  15. Columbia Craw has it right. I'll add a few more ideas that might help. CCS is an objective rod/blank rating system that is easy to set up so that both power and action can be measured. https://common-cents.info/ Additionally, one can easily with an Android device measure the natural frequency of the blank/rod. The higher the number the faster the recovery from deflection, and the crisper/cleaner the rod will feel. Higher mod rod/blanks usually but not always (depends on the design details) have higher natural frequencies. I can send a .pdf file that tells how to do it for those interested. Even within a manufacturer's line of product the objective numbers may not correlate to the subjective descriptions. For example, a medium power rod sold as a drop shot rod will often have much less power than one sold as a jigging rod. CCS is the best measure. Some blank makers publish CCS numbers, but it is not common. There is a good data base on line for blanks. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1r3zv1ygtuUjPBa-c5LT9RTYeDR_pnCDIkVIdDv0YoeQ/edit#gid=1592691333 An enterprising man named Kevin Fiant has compiled it from data from manufacturers and builders. Thank you again, Kevin. We hear a lot about how important action is in "keeping fish pinned," but one should consider that the longer the rod the less important action is to this consideration. A 7 1/2 foot extra fast action is a lot like a 6 1/2 foot moderate/fast action on a 1 foot butt extension. Finally, for the same power, the faster the action, the softer the tip (softer = lower stiffness) . The confusion in evaluating feel between the combinations the OP'er mentions is due to the fact that the subjective descriptions vary all over the place and cannot be trusted to be even close to consistent. Two "mod fast" rods may be quite different in action; two medium power rods may be quite different in power. The only way to compare apples to apples is to objectively measure the rods for CCS numbers. Then add TNF (True Natural Frequency) for an added objective measure of performance.
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