dampeoples

Here are a few more Jann's baits I painted, practice, practice, practice keeps you sharp Part of a reel I'm painting Dressed up popper Some ringworms in New Penny color And I owe marty a great big handfull of pics, they're coming soon dude, along with another package, if these folks will send me my stuff

Yeah it is - nice looking rod

I really don't know anything about any 'airbrush' compressor, Allen, although if noise is a concern, I would look for the dB rating, if given, and look for one that turns off when you're not spraying. What I do, and another option, would be to get a large compressor, mine is a 5HP, 25 gallon, and fill it once, then forget about it. I can paint a LOT of baits before I need to fill it up again, sometimes even leaving it full for a few days before using it again, or even painting baits over several days without refilling. At least that way, you'll also have a compressor around the house that will run air tools, fill tires, etc.

Thanks!!! I love that blue craw too, that kind of happened by accident, but in a good way. The frog was fun to do, I'm still dreaming up ideas for the last one

Allen, In the airbrush bible, or Bear Air, they list a Paasche d500, and claim that it is not a silent model, so I do not think this one would be. They mention that diaphragm models are generally noisy, and do not require oil, while the models that require oil are quieter.

Thanks! I love this stuff On the trebles, i've ordered a vise from Zeiner's, I think my problem is that i'm holding the hook with a hemostat, and the feathers, bobbin and hemostat with both hands, and end up covering up my work, so I'm just guessing If I have any more questions after I get that, I'll let you know Actually....I'm using strung hackle, and just cutting the top off a feather, then prety much just tying that on, what sort of material would I look for to make the end toward the hook fuzzier, sort of like a Pop-R? I've used Flashabou with good results, such as the Chug Bugs come with, but a little variety never hurt anyone

Made some new stuff redently, would like to show it off This is a trap, popper and Pointer copy in a shad pattern loosely related to Sexy Shad This is a new worm I've started pouring today, a 4" ringworm, as well as some Things. The color is blue craw These are some full round trick worms, floating without salt, really nice fall with salt, I like to wacky rig these in the local lakes that have a ton of grass This is a little frog I painted, I got two of these blanks, the last two they had, then the folks stopped selling on eBay, oh well, took me a year to feel confident enough to paint one, I'll hold onto the other for a while too! Some more of the sexy shad variants, I like the purple much better Been trying to learn how to tie dressed trebles, I normally use Flashabou, pull it through the hook eye, stick a rubber collar over it, and go fishing, but these look nicer. Need to work on being neat, did these holding everything in my hand, have ordered a cheap vise to help with that. Everyone loves frogs! The colors are smoke ble pearl, chartreuse pumpkin, and blue craw. I would love to see a shared photo album for this board, there is so much killer stuff to be seen! Afree option where we could all upload stuff, and each have out own folder would be killer to say the least.

My go-to baits are Storm Wiggle Warts, but not the new models, although a few of them I like. I also really like the Lightnin' Shads, mid-warts, wee warts, pee wee warts, the chug bug, of course. By today's standards with all the flashy paint, the gimmicky features, etc, these old school baits catch as many if not more

Most lizards are pretty flat, but you can achieve a certain amount of roundness by overfilling the mold to the point that it almost spills over. To get the tail to pour in a two piece mold, if it's really thin, you will have to pour the tail, then close the mold, and pour the rest, which is why all the molds are flat! If you really have to have a two piece mold, take a screwdriver, awl, or something sharp, and start cutting vent holes, lots of them. For a good idea of what i'm referring to, take a look at this mold here.

Depends on the day/lake/season, etc, but today: Alphas Trinis 6'6" MH - Quantum Lite reel (sentimental value!) - Buzzbaits Custom 6'3" MM - Daiwa Advantage - Light/shallow cranks Custom 7' MHF - Daiwa Smak - weightless plastic Airrus Co-Matrix 6' M - Scorpion 1000Mg - shakey heads Airrus Co-Matric 6'6" M - Abu Garcia Revo STX - spinnerbaits BPS Red Rod (dunno!) - 7' MH - Shimano Calcutta - ball and chain Airrus Ultra-XL- 6'8" MH - Quantum Accurist 2 - t-rig

Nice looking jigs! Seems a lot of the Delta guys only use those two colors! I make jigs as well, got a Poison Tail, Arkie, Football and Round Head mold, I end up fishing the Round Head and the football the most, honestly. I use mostly rubber skirting, and the arm rattles. I put a few silicone skirted jigs together, but rarely grab them, they're pretty in the box, though

Mr. Greene, do you know if the new blanks are going to match the old blanks performance-wise? I've seen a lot of new and improved stuff that really wasn't! As an aside - The rod I spoke to you about - I gave up!! Having a buddy of mine build me one based on weight - if it's not needed, it doesn't go on it The best thing is I have to meet him at the lake to receive the rod

The guy at Get Bit took his site down for personal reasons, he hangs out at TU, username jmik(some number, 26 maybe?), might benefit you to ask, he might have some laying around.

I personally have both a bow mount and a stern mount trlling motor on my boat, but there are several guys in my club that only run a bow mount with no problems. As stated before, if you are driving the boat on, simply lift it before it hits the trailer, if winching it on, it's no problem at all. Since the boat is a v-hull, you probably won't even need to install the batteries in the rear of the boat to keep the bow level, but it's not a bad option. The only thing with operation is if you do not have some sort of weight in the rear, such as batteries, or a person, motor, etc, the back end will be light, and want to swing around easier, making it harder to control, but weight will counter that. On the larger motor advice - I run a Tm only Jon Boat club, we all have just as d**n many batteries and motors as we can afford, so yes, surfer, he's probably trying to see how fast he can go, THEN fish, but, if you only run one, and it's large, make sure it's variable speed. Sometimes the first speed is too fast without being able to dial it down! For fishing, once you learn how to operate the boat effectively, you'll love the foot control, you'll never have to stop fishing to fiddle with the motor to change directions, stop, etc. If this boat will never have an outboard, I'd plan on eventually getting either a large, 24V variable speed motor, or a stern mount motor in the long run, just to make those trips across the lake a little quicker! I have a 43 on the front, and a 55 on the back, and get 4.5MPH with a flat bottom boat decked out, 2 batteries, livewell full, and loaded. Add another person, and that drops to about 3.75/4, though.

It's expensive, and I didn't pay that much for mine, but check the Toho rig in Bass Pro, it's a nice divided setup, even has storage in the middle section. In my club, most guys have a cooler with an aerator inside of it, some fill it with a jug, some hold the aerator over the side and fill it that way. Even had one take a cooler, remove the top, placed it under the front deck, and built a top for that. I just flip the pump into the water over the side of the boat to fill my Toho rig, also have a timer that does the rest for me, just switch it on, and forget it.

Pretty much all of the places that carry the components will have SS wire.

Really need more info, honestly. All I know is that you have two rods, and the length. You listed the power, but the action plays a part as well as the line/lure rating, etc. Then again, don't let that be the end-all-be-all either, It's perfectly OK to use a worm rod for cranking if that's what works best for you!

I concur with Ronnie! i did, however, buy an Airrus Specttra rod earlier this year, and found that I liked it for spinnerbaits as well, but you can't go wrong with a cranking stick. If you're familiar with the Avid line, see what they have to offer. I read somewhere that they are coming out with new models, and places such as Cabelas have the old on sale, but have not verified it. I do know that Wolf Tackle has in-stock models 20% off, free shipping over $100. Tell Glenn I sent you, he might even charge you more Just saw the part about the reel, while I prefer a slow/low gear ratio on cranks such as a 4.4:1 to a 5.1:1, I like to use a mid-fast ratio for spinnerbaits, such as a 5.1:1 up to a 6.1:1 or so.

To what purpose? You want to learn how to make one, can't find anymore, or want to buy a dozen? I certainly can't speak for John, Marty, or the others, but I personally enjoy the art of luremaking, copying baits is certainly not easy, and is rewarding in it's own right, but it's not art, either

ahem....We as fishermen use Bubble Gum, pink is for the girls Nice looking Marty, I think I'm gonna go paint today as well

Yep, I think that's it! Yeah, the stuff is high, but then again, what isn't

I can't remember the name right now, but there is a material used for signs that has the same properties. They'll even send over a sample plank if you ask, just can't remember whom to ask!

Build baits for fun, to get stuff you can't get at the store, heck, build out of boredom, but not to save money, it's not gonna happen! The large manufacturers sell a bait for say, $5, where the sum of it's parts, if you were to build a bait with quality stuff, would be close to that. The difference is they build in very large quantities, and use foreign labor, where the home builder builds with love and small quantitis.

Thanks I'm not a fan of the chart one either, gonna try it a little differently next time, hopefully gonna clear these this afternoon, and put them to use tomorrow, might be too soon, though!

Aluminum it is then Keep in mind that the smaller the parts, the harder they are to handpour, and you would need to consider an injection machine to pour them, or maybe the injector that Jann's sells fitted somehow to your mold. I've never used that injector, but have read quite a few warnings on TU concerning those things breaking and spilling hot plastic, but know a local guy that uses them with no problems, could be operator error? Good luck!