Shadcranker

Fish it in clear to stained water around cover. Fish it as slow as you can but still keep it on top. Always use a trailer hook.

Be careful trimming the weedguards up too high. I'm sure the jig companies want you to, b/c you'll lose a ton. I'm more concerned with the stiffness. I usually thin them out some, and than trim just to where they are in line with the hook ponit.

If it's really cold where you are, get the insulated Cabelas Guide wear. Doubles as a great rain suit too. Get some good thermal underwear, neoprine gloves, over gloves, a neck warmer, good stocking cap, insulated Goretex boots. Main thing is to keep your hands and feet warm. If your feet or hands get cold, you're in for a tough day. Layer up with clothes, bring coffee.

Similar to the post above: To weight it and keep the natural horizontal side to side motion, buy some of the Slugo insert weights (nail weights), and insert in the top portion b/w the bend of the hook and the point. Trim off the top of the weight with clippers. Keeps the bait from nosing out of the water, and you don't lose the action at all.

It's a tie- 41/2 in Supending Rogue - LC Pointer 100 If fish are more aggressive- I'll throw an X Rap.

George: By light, I mean translucent (will let light through). Junebug and red shad appear dark b/c they aren't translucent. Watermelon and Green Pumpkin are more natural, neutral colors that mimick craw and worm hues, plus in clearer water, they are more subtle. I generally throw lighter colored baits in clear water and the two darker ones in stained to muddy. I consider white, bubblegum, etc, to be bright colors. The white and shad colored baits resemble bait fish, and the sherbert, yellow, etc colors, are primarily to allow the fisherman to see the bait when bed fishing, floating worm fishing, or for muddy conditions.

Try McCoy Mean Green line. Little or no twist.

1/2 oz Oldhams Trailer Hitch jig with Zoom Super Chunk. For Plastics, I'd say a Sweet Beaver or a Prowler Flippin Tube, both with 3/8 oz weight and 3/0 EWG Gamakatsu.

Suspending jerkbaits really shine for me in the late winter, early spring time, and post spawn periods (pre-spawn b/w 45-65 degree temps). I prefer the more subtle action of the suspending Rogue early in the year. The X-Rap really gets good when the fish get fairy aggresive in the late pre-spawn and post spawn when on the feed and moving back out. This bait will call them up from a long way in clear to lightly stained water. I throw it on a med action jerkbait rod (tip action is key), on 15 lb Pline. Crank it down to around 3-4 ft, stop reeling, and jerk it real hard one time, then pause, jerk-jerk, pause, etc. Earlier in the year, you may have to pause 10 seconds (seems like a lifetime). Mix up the retrieve and let the fish dictate how you work it. A suspending jerkbait will catch you some of the biggest fish in the lake. Just stick with it. It's a visual lure, so it really shines in clear water in the Spring.

Heck no I can't catch that 300 HP motor you're running. I actually have tons of colors and boxes of extra platics in the garage from 15 yr of buying every shape, color, and size known to man. Problem is, I can only fit about 1/10th of it in my boat storeage, and it just confuses me on the lake. Just trying to pass along a lesson learned on colors. Heck if it helps you having more colors, go for it.

Powell 7ft Crankbait series (Heavy action model). Love it. I used to use a Fiberglass rod, but the sensitivity and action of this light graphite rod is fantastic. The action is slow enough not to pull the bait away, but the light weight makes a huge difference when dragging a DD22 around in 14ft of water for 8hrs. I throw the new Curado 5:1 model with 10lb P Line CXX.

IMHO- there is a choking point with regards to price on equipment. The Curado is my workhorse, and it has all I need (own around 12 of them- old and new models). You will not tell much of a difference in stepping up to the Chronarch (other than the 50 MG b/c of weight). That said, if you need to rationalize the extra $$, you have a good one built in, since you can get them at a discount. Same thing with rods for me. I have settled on Powell Max rods, and for $170, they are as good as I need. Sure, I could pay a lot more and get a high end Loomis or other $400 rod, but I'd rather have two Powells for the price b/c I use them a lot, and I like having a variety of lengths and actions with me.

I understand that KVD carries as much stuff as his 21 ft Nitro will hold. Two major differences between KVD and myself: 1. His livelyhood depends on perfection 2. All his stuff is free Just trying to make a basic point that if you simplify colors, you can cover most fishing situations, and for most weekend anglers the color thing is a never ending pursuit of Mr Bait Monkey. Also, you think KVD's sponsors (i.e. Strike King) want him just throwing chart and white or straight watermelon 3X finesse worms? Marketing is a wonderful thing, and I'm sure KVD's sponsors appreciate you paying attention to all the detail and purchasing opportunities that are presented on The Bass Pros and other shows. I think it's great to customize and tinker, but at least for the beginner it can be a bit intimidating trying to have it all.

I have been at this bass fishing stuff for around 15 years now, and I have come up with a "system" of sorts to try and keep the bait monkey at bay, and to not have to carry so much crap in my boat. Most Plastics: Four basic colors (obviously some variations, but these are the basics): Green pumpkin, watermelon / red flake, junebug, and red shad. Two light and two dark colors that cover 99% of the water conditions. Carry a collection of worm dyes with you to customize as needed. Flukes and grubs (often trying to imitate shad): pearl, chartreuse pepper, and one green shade (watermelon). Crankbaits: Three basic colors- TN Shad, Chartreuse with blue back, and craw patterns. I usually only buy the craw patterns in baits that run 2-10 ft, as I mostly use them on the flats and shallow points in spring. I buy TN Shad and the Chart / Blue ones for deeper cranking in Summer and Fall. Spinnerbaits and buzzbaits: Buy basic white and chart / white colors, and buy some extra skirts to customize as needed.

I'm a Zoom guy. The baits are loaded with salt, are soft enough but don't tear up on one fish, and they have the best variety of sizes, shapes, and colors of any platics manufacturer out there. The only plastic baits I don't buy of theirs are tubes, Senkos, toads, and grubs (their tubes aren't loaded with salt like others, and I really like the action of the Kalin grubs, and I've had more success on the Stanley Ribbit). Their Lizards, Baby Brush Hogs, Ole Monster Worms, Super Hogs, Trick worms, finesse worms, Speed Craws, and Jig trailers are all great. As far a scent goes, I spray the Bang Pure Craw on my plastics. It's easy to use b/c it's a spray, and I get the craw scent plus the salt on the plastics. I've got some Yum stuff, but Zoom is the go-to plastic brand for me. SC P.S. On Gulp and Power Bait, the stuff turns my stomach, and smells up everything in site. It's a no-go for me.

F3 Bassmasters, a TN Federation club (FLW affiliated), is seeking new members for our 2008 season. We are a fun and learning based club. We currently have around 15 active members, and we are looking to expand to around 30 members. We fish a club tournament once per month in the season (March through October), mostly on Priest, Old Hickory, etc (close to home). We only pay big fish ($5.00 per event each), and we do not have live weigh ins to help the fish survive. We record our keeper catches on paper, based on length. We meet once per month in the Antioch area (first Thursday of each month). Top six anglers from our club qualify for a two day State Federation event in the Fall. You do not have to have a boat to fish. We pair a boater and a non-boater for each event. Our goal is to teach each other about fishing in our area lakes, and to have good fellowship. If you're looking for a highly competitive club and a chance to win money, this is not the club for you. If you just want to have fun, friendly competition and a chance to learn more about fishing, we'd like to have you. If you are interested, please PM me your contact info, and I can pass it along to one of our Officers. Good fishing, SC (F3 Bassmasters) www.tnbass.com/clubs/info.php?id=139

I define value as a great product for the price. Therefore, some of these aren't cheap, but they are worth the $, IMHO: www.conquistadortackle.com (world class jigs) www.tfbass.com (great jigs) www.soblures.com (spinnerbaits) www.outkasttackle.com (swim jigs) www.dwlures.com (awesome plastics) www.prowlerlures.com (my choice in tubes)

Any time you're trying to mimmick a shad, a white palstic is great. Most of my success has been on a Pearl Blue w/ with silver flake 5" Senko (looks white), a gambler Flappin Shad, or a Pearl Fluke.

TX Rigged 4" Prowler tube in Green Pumkin w/ tail dipped in chart dye. On 3/0 EWG Gammy with 5/16 bullet weight.

1. Zoom Super Chunk and Jr version (Flipping and finesse jigs) 2. Gambler Ugly Otter Jr (Football jigs) 3. Chompers twin tail trailers (Football jigs) 4. Zoom Fat Albert single tail grub (swim jig) 5. Netbait Paca Chunk (flippin jig) 6. Zoom Speed Craw (football jig) That's all I use, but I imagine most creature baits like a sweet beaver would make a good trailer too.

May I suggest Powell Rods? If you like the design features of the Kistler, you'll love the Powell. Great value for the $$ (around $169). Tackle Warehouse sells them. I own four of them and zero quality issues so far.

Gambler Giggy Stick, Zoom Trick Worm, Zoom Finesse Worm, Davis Floating Shaky Worm, and Netbait Worm. Also try small creature baits and craws if you have spotted bass around. The smallie beaver fishes great on a shaky head, and so does the Paca Craw. As far as the heads go, i have sttled on the Davis SL (super long shank). Coosa Tackle in AL sells them in 25 pack for a great price. Good luck. SC

Punisher Jigs in East TN makes a great kit to get you started. Our BPS here in Nashville sells it. Comes with the jigs, floats, and scent. Key to the Floating Fly deal is the water temp. It really shines in mid to late Winter on highland reservoirs (deep clear rocky) when the fish suspend. Water needs to be in the low 40's and colder for it to work well.

My favorite pitching rod and reel is: Powell 703C (7' MH with a lot of tip action- need it to sling the bait out there) with a 100 Curado with 15lb P-Line CXX. Spray the line with KVD Line and lure conditioner. Set the spool fairly loose, and "feather" the line down as the lure starts to hit the water. SC

Anyone else think the DQ was rigged due to viewers complaints ove the guntersville fiasco, where he basically cheated?