Micropterus salmoides

For you guys throwing the Ultimate Bluegill what type of line and lb test are you using?

G Loomis CBR845C, a mod-fast, medium-heavy action crankbait rod

Looks like I'm in the minority here as I'm right handed and use all RH baitcasters. I use LH spinning. The first baitcaster I bought years ago was LH, but I eventually made the switch to RH as they were more available and it seemed the majority of right handed anglers used them. Now it seems that more and more right handed anglers are using LH reels, though most pros I see use RH reels. I may be joining the ranks of LH users as persistent shoulder, back, and forearm pain is making it difficult to work jigs and worms with rod tip up and is particularly problematic when using jerkbaits.

I've been using Revenge Spinnerbaits for a few years. I used the Terminators before that, but started having issues with the wire breaking at the R-bend and the rear blade slipping off. I believe that the quality of the Terminators has fallen even more since. I think they moved manufacturing at some point. That's usually not a good sign. They definitely catch fish, but it's too bad that they are not as good as they used to be.

I purchased Carbontex for my TD-Z from Smooth Drag. http://www.smoothdrag.com/price.html For the Sol get the Daiwa Baitcaster #1. Also get Cal's Universal Reel & Drag Grease 1 oz. They were really easy to install in my TD-Z. I think the Sol would be the same. It's easier if you have a proper set of small screwdrivers that won't strip the screws. I picked up a set of 8 Wiha screwdrivers just to service my reels. Basically, you have to soak the Sol metal washers in naptha (lighter fluid) or acetone to clean them. Let them dry. Then apply a very thin film to the metal washers and the Carbontex washers and install them. My advice is to head over to the Tackle Tour site and do a search for carbontex. The info on Tackle Tour is superior and more extensive. There's a lot of guys there who have done this upgrade time and again and would be more than willing to help. Good luck.

Which lens do you think is better for sight fishing as well as all-around fishing in various light conditions, the green mirror or silver mirror?

I prefer 2ft+ visibility, but will start using them at 1.5ft. During the Spring anything less I throw crankbaits instead.

I replied on TT, but will add some more here. I've caught 5-7lb bass on both the 733C and 734C and the thing I noticed was that the 733C flexed quite a bit more when under load because of its softer tip. Once you get into the backbone it is still a powerful rod, and can pull fish from cover, it just requires a little more oomph from the angler. The reason I use the 734C is that during the warmer months I fish around a lot of grass. I've used the 733C earlier in the year when there's almost no grass. I still prefer the 733C for casting ease and accuracy. It's the perfect power and action for slinging blades. If I used one for flukes it would be the 733C. I use my GLX 843C for flukes. Really, unless you are fishing around larger areas of dense cover the 733C should do you nice. If you check various forums most anglers prefer a 3 power (medium-heavy) rod for spinnerbaits. Those that choose a 4 power (heavy) rod are often fishing heavy cover. Too bad you aren't located in Northern CA. My local tackle shop has the Dobyns rods for 25% off plus no sales tax. I picked up another 734C and 735C yesterday.

I use the red Daiwa oil (aka TD-Z oil). I think that it offers excellent performance without having to apply as frequently as the lower viscosity oils. Oust Met-Oil is supposed to be a really good oil. Very thin though, so requires more frequent application.

Here you go... http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfluorocarbontest.html http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfluorocarbon2.html http://www.tackletour.com/reviewtrilenefc.html

Brokeju, Do you use the 736C for open water frog fishing? Is it easy to walk a frog with? I purchased a 736C last year but haven't used it for frogs yet. I also purchased a 735C (tags still on) thinking that I would use it for open water frogging and the 736C for mats, but now I wonder if the 736C can be used for both situations. How do you like 70lb Daiwa Samurai as far as abrasion resistance? I was considering trying it but I've read that Suffix and Power Pro have greater abrasion resistance. Currently I use 65lb Power Pro.

Not that I plan on buying any of these hooks, but if I eventually did I'd definitely wait a while to hear angler's feedback. At that price point I'd expect them to last several times longer than other manufacturer's hooks. BTW, the Reaction Innovations BMF hook is being sold by another company under a different name. It's the exact same hook Gamakatsu made for R.I. It's now called the Punch Hook by Paycheck Baits.

Three really good trailers, particularly if you are trying to imitate bluegill are the Yamamoto 5" Swim Senko, R.I. 5" Skinny Dipper, and Lake Fork Tackle 4.5" Live Magic Shad, in no particular order. Deadly when worked over and along submerged vegetation.

Junebug, Green Pumpkin, Watermelon w/ black & red flake, Watermelon.

Have any of you tried the Gambler Double Trouble Toad Hook or Tru-Tungsten Hackney Frog Hook?

Have any of you tried the newer double hooks like the Tru-Tungsten Hackney Frog Hook, Gambler Double Trouble Toad Hook? I wonder if they are better than using a single hook.

Makes a great trailer on a swim jig or chatter bait.

I've been using them for a couple years now. I really like the detail and quality. Ray, the guy who makes them, is insane with his craftsmanship. Last year he updated the wire to a tempered metal which is much more durable. I rarely have to tune the bait after catching bass. He also updated the head design so that the skirt flares out more. The main difference I've noticed in comparison to other spinnerbaits is that the blades put off a tremendous amount of vibration, especially the larger blades like on the 1/2 oz. There's quite a bit of difference in the resistance felt when stepping up from a 3/8 oz to a 1/2 oz. The 1/2 oz has more resistance than many mid-range crankbaits I've used. I still use the Terminator T1s in my arsenal since they have far less vibration and thump to them. Check out the Revenge Viberator in the Chatterbait section at TW. I plan on picking up some in the new bluegill color.

I haven't tried many brands, but I really like Toray Super Hard Upgrade on casting reels for jigs/worms and Sunline FC Sniper on my spinning reel. For reaction baits I intend on using Trilene 100%. It has almost twice the stretch of Toray Super Hard which should help with faster moving baits.

When you use pork its is suppose to rest where the shank meets the hook gap. The area of the shank between the pork and the jig head is where you slide the piece of grub. Here's a picture:

When I use pork I always place a piece of a Yamamoto 5" grub on the hook shank. Length depends on the length of the hook shank. With the jig hanging vertical so the pork is completely vertical I like the space between the grub and pork to be about 1/4". The piece of grub prevents the pork from sliding up the hook, provides more bulk, and slows the fall rate.

I've been using Toray Super Hard on a couple of baitcasters for a little less than a year now. I've tried 16lb and 20lb. Good abrasion resistance, low stretch, very sensitive, low memory, long lasting. The 20lb lasted me 8 months until I decided to drop down to 16lb for Fall/Winter. On my spinning reel I've used 10lb Sunline FC Sniper. I've only used it on a few occasions. It's the one premiere fluorocarbon I see frequently recommended for spinning reels. The above are my choices for jigs & worms where feel is paramount. I haven't tried it yet, but Trilene 100% would be my choice if I wanted to use fluorocarbon for crankbaits, ripbaits, or other moving reaction baits.

I've only used two fluorocarbons, one for casting and one for spinning. I am very impressed with Toray Super Hard Upgrade, which I have used in 16lb and 20lb for jigs and texas rigs on a couple of baitcasters. Based on TackleTour's fluorocarbon showdown it is the most abrasion resistant fluorocarbon they reviewed, a quality I was looking for since I was switching from P-Line CXX, a notoriously highly abrasion resistant line. It has low stretch and provides great sensitivity. It also lasts a long time. I had a spool of 20lb last from April to December and only respooled because I was dropping to 16lb. The only downside I've noticed is because it is a stiffer line it is important not to backlash or get kinks in the line. It definitely requires more management, but nothing that is time consuming or frustrating. The other fluorocarbon I have used is Sunline FC Sniper on my spinning setup. It can be tricky to spool on without getting twists and loops but I like it so far. I've only used it on a few occasions so I don't know all its on the water characterisitics. One tip for using fluorocarbon is to apply KVD Lure & Line when spooling it on and after use. I have found that this stuff makes fluorocarbon more user friendly and manageable.

I purchased a handful of them, but most were backordered so I only received two. I played around with the rattle on/off system and it was a bit tricky. The rattle would often not dislodge or not reengage. I ended up returning them and canceling the backorders. The crankbait bite had died significantly so I decided that I would wait until next year when there was more feedback. The lip is completely rounded as opposed to the original having an angle before the lip is rounded. I think I'll try modifying some of the originals. I wonder which ones are better. The ones Horton modified or the mass produced ones.

Cool. I see a Hard Gill floater in the near future. Matt, How do you recommend tying to the lure - direct, snap, split ring? What size snap or split ring?