Micropterus salmoides

Fishtank, If you didn't know, Sunline Defier has a smaller diameter than many copolymers. The 13lb is 0.0118 in. That's between 8lb and 10lb Suffix and close to 6lb P-Line CXX. If you're looking to match line diameter and breaking strength you may want to go with a higher test. Here's the diameter sizes for Defier: lb dia/in qty 13 0.0118 330yd 15 0.0126 330yd 17 0.0134 330yd 19 0.0142 330yd 22 0.0150 330yd

I just started using 16lb Toray Super Hard Upgrade and noticed a significant jump in sensitivity over 12-15lb P-Line CXX. The sensitivty combined with the fact that it sinks helps a lot during windy conditions. It's pricey and whenever I screw up a knot or have to retie its agony ;D , but so far I like it. Time will determine how good the wet abrasion resistance and knot strength are.

I have several F.T.O. boxes - terminal, 302 (for jigs), medium crankbait, jerkbait, topwater - and really like them. I'm considering the buzzbait box. Does it compress the wire like the spinnerbait box does to spinnerbaits? Would it be able to fit the Persuader Blade in Blade Buzzbaits?

The best thing I've found to wear under breathable waders when its warm/hot is Patagonia's Capilene 1 Bottoms Performance Baselayer. It is very thin, breathable, wicks moisture, and prevents chaffing. http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/product/product_focus.jsp?OPTION=PRODUCT_FOCUS_DISPLAY_HANDLER&style_color=45400-155&patcatcode=PBL.PBL.MENS.CAPILENE1

If you're fishing spinnerbaits and buzzbaits in cover, like grass for example, I would recommend at least a MH. Having said that it depends on the manufacturer you choose. A St Croix Medium rod is like a G Loomis Medium Heavy. I would suggest a 6'6"-7' Fast Action rod rated for 10-17lb line and 1/4-3/4 oz lures regardless of the power rating.

I've used P-Line CXX as my main line for several years now. When using reaction baits - crankbaits, jerkbaits, spinnerbaits, buzzbaits, topwaters - with 10-17lb CXX line memory/coiling hasn't been a problem. Using 15lb CXX for jigs, texas rigs and especially Senkos is another story. After 2-3 weeks of fishing, an average of 3-4 a week, line memory is a problem. It's not as bad with jigs and texas rigs since the weight of the lure pulls some of the coils out but with Senkos memory will result in coiling line above the surface. This year I tried KVD's Line & Lure Conditioner for the first time and it has definitely worked. The line is much more resistant to memory and I can cast a bit farther. The true test of how well KVD's works will be how the line acts when fishing Senkos. The key to getting maximum effectiveness from KVD's is how you apply it. When I spool new line on I run the line through a small cloth saturated with it. Then I add a few more sprays on the spooled line. The night before I go fishing I spray the spool a few more times. 8-)

You've been interested in the BCR845 for some time now. I searched the forum for info on the BCRs and you mentioned that a few times. When do you plan on purchasing one? Let me know how it compares to the GLX MBR844C.

I want to purchase another rod for 1/4-3/4 oz jigs and texas rigs. Is the BCR854 lighter in weight and/or better balanced than the MBR844C? Is one more comfortable to fish all day with? Is it difficult to cast a 1/4 oz texas rig with? For those who have owned both which one do you prefer as a dedicated jig & texas rig rod?

If you had to choose one of the Steez reels for all-around jig and worm fishing, both casting and pitching, which one would it be, the 100HA or 103HA?

Have any of you used the GYCB Sugoi Wide Gap Offset Shank for Senkos?

A rod and reel combo that is lighter and balanced helps out. Even then, if you use jerkbaits a lot or haven't used them in a while and start again the result can be wrist pain. Try doing some stretches and strengthening exercises for your hands, wrists, and forearms. It works.

How are you going to choose the lb test that you use now that Seaguar has decreased the diameter of InvisX on the 2008 spools? For example, 15lb (.330mm) now has the same diameter of the older 12lb (.330mm).

For those of you that own the Dobyns 795 ML SB rod do you think it is powerful enough for the 8" Huddleston Deluxe? Should I be looking at one of the 806 rods for the 8" Hudds? What lures do you think are ideal for the 795 ML SB?

Would you guys still use fluorocarbon if fishing dirty, shallow water? What about heavy cover?

If little memory and strength is what you're looking for try Sunline Super FC Sniper Fluorocarbon. It's one of the more manageable fluorocarbons. Sunline Shooter is more abrasion resistant but has more memory. It would be better suited for baitcasters and heavier cover. The 8lb test Super FC Sniper would work great. It has a diameter of most 4lb-6lb lines. It's a favorite of a lot of people for spinning reels. Makes a great drop shot line. Just make sure that when you spool it on to lay the spool flat. After every 5-10 turns lower your rod tip down to the spool to see if any twist has developed. If so flip the spool over. If not leave the spool alone. Continue this until you're finished. On a side note this line may not be as limp as other lines, but the trade off is increased sensitivity, a line that sinks, and better abrasion resistance. Recently I started using Kevin Van Dam's Line and Lure Condition. I was very skeptical at first but it seems to make the line more manageable. Great for fluorocarbons and copolymers that have memory. The best way to apply it is to liberally spray a small cloth with it and then let your line pass through the cloth when you first spool it on. Then the day before going fishing spray the spool a few times.

My preference is a MH G Loomis MBR843C baitcasting rod for weightless soft plastics, Senkos, flukes, spinnerbaits. Looking at the St Croix Premiers the baitcasting rod that has the same line and lure rating as my rod is the PC66MF, a 6'6" M action rod. The St Croix Premier rods may be more powerful for their rating compared to G Loomis rods. I've never used St Croix rods so the MH may be the same as the MH G Loomis despite the different ratings. Someone hear is probably familiar with these rods and could give you the correct info. I think the rod and reel you selected is fine for weightless soft plastics, Senkos, flukes, and texas rigs. Depending on how often you throw a spinnerbait I would consider a baitcaster. If you intend to use soft bodied frogs I think the rod you have will work. However, if you meant hollow bodied frogs it may not be powerful enough if you're fishing in heavy cover. In my opinion, considering all the lures you want to use, a baitcaster would be more versatile. I'm partial to baitcasters so this info is definitely biased. If you've never used a baitcasting combo before it can be frustrating to learn. So if getting into fishing right now is your primary focus then the spinning setup works. I think you get more value spending the amount of money you did for the Plueger reel. If you went with a baitcasting reel you'd probably have to spend a bit more to get the same quality. The rod would be about the same price. If you decide to go with a baitcasting rod and reel let us know how much you're willing to spend on the reel. I'm sure with all the knowledge here you'd be able to select a reel that can handle weightless lures.

When I first started bass fishing I bought a left hand reel and cast right, cranked left. I bought several more reels but chose right hand reels because they were more readily available and more right handed people seemed to use them. Now I cast right and crank right. I kind of wish I had stuck with left hand reels. I can remember being able to set the hook using only my right arm with that left hand reel. I can't do the same with my left arm. I was in a tackle shop recently and mounted a left hand reel on a rod and it felt awkward cranking the handle with my left hand after not doing so for several years. It would be interesting to see if casting right and cranking left would be easier for me, after the initial adjustment period, of course. Unfortunately, I have too much invested in right handed reels and don't want to go through the trial and error process. The way right and left handed reels are labeled now is a misnomer. I believe the guy who invented the baitcaster was left handed so he put the handle on the right side in order to use his dominate left hand for the rod.

I was a Rep. for Mad Man Lures a few years back and they had two kinds of a craw.One was a craw tube and a craw worm and both had small pincers. I do still have many bags of them. Not sure that I want to part with them! They are small and they look so real! Ahhhh.... Mad Man Crawfish Tubes. I loved those for jig trailers. Caught some of my biggest fish with the 3.5" used as trailer. Too bad they went under. I'm currently trying the Yum Craw Bugs, but I definitely prefer the size and profile of the Mad Man's. I still check Ebay from time to time, however the 3.5" size is never listed. >

Jake_P, Check out the Dobyns 735C. After doing quite a bit of research that is the rod I'm purchasing for frogs. I normally use G Loomis rods, but I found too many unfavorable reviews of their Frog Rod on several forums. The Dobyns 735C works for frogs, pitchin' jigs & worms, and small swimbaits. I can't wait to get mine. As far as frogs I've done really well with the Snag Proof Pro Series Tournament Frog. I want to try the Snag Proof Bobby's Perfect Frog, which I've heard is great for walking in open water. I too have heard about the Spro Bronzeye Frog filling with water and sinking. There have been reports of inconsistencies with the plastic. Some are soft and compressible and others are harder. It's too bad there are quality control issues. If you get a good one they are one of the best on the market.

I used the Reaction Innovations W.W. Hook, which is now discontinued. It was a heavier gauge Gamakatsu kahle style hook with two monofilament strands as a weedgaurd. I had a few of the points roll on me so I lost confidence in them. The closest hook that I have found is the Falcon Lures "K" Wacky Hooks - http://www.fishingworld.com/FalconLures/Details.tmpl?ID=10243676811008277&Cart=120062290062713153&SKU=52%20GAMY. I purchased the weedless weightless version but have yet to use them. The Gamakatsu Finesse Weedless Hooks are a good hook, but I like a wider gap. Some people have told me that this hook is better if you use a sweep hookset.

I hope its more than just the Mg with DC. Hopefully it will have more bearings and/or be smoother. If so then it will be one sweet reel.

I would definitely check out Tackle Warehouse. Here's a couple 1/4 oz jigs I found there: http://www.***.com/descpageJCASKINNY-SBPFJ.html http://www.***.com/descpageBPJIG-BPFJ.html http://www.***.com/descpageJIGSJEWEL-JBPSJ.html I'd go with the Skinny Bear jig. The Dirty Jigs Tackle jigs are really nice, but currently they don't come in rubber, which is my preference. I contacted them and there's a possibility they may make rubber an option in the next couple of months.

G Loomis CBR845. Great jerkbait rod that also works well with crankbaits and treble hook topwaters. I've also read good things about the Dobyns 705CB, which is very similar to the CBR845.

I'd also recommend Tackle Warehouse. I've ordered from them several times. They have a great selection of lures and shipping is quick. If you're looking for Lucky Craft crankbaits you owe it to yourself to pick up some of the Rick Clunn BDS 1.5 crankbaits. They are great for fishing shallow cover, especially wood. Copper perch is one of the favorite colors.

I normally use 12-15lb P-Line CXX (copolymer) for jigs. Now that it's winter I'm using 12lb to target bass from 5-30ft deep. Currently the water is very stained, with 1-1.5ft visibility. It usually doesn't exceed 3ft visibility. I'm fishing rocky points, ledges, humps with sparse wood cover. For now line visibility isn't an issue due to how stained the water is. I'm considering fluorocarbon for its sinking and sensitivity properties, especially for fishing deep. I thought that fluorocarbon would give me more direct contact when fishing 15-30ft deep, due to the fact that the line doesn't bow underwater like nylon or copolymer monofilaments. I'm also interested in the stiffness and manageability of the more abrasion resistant fluorocarbons compared to CXX. What would be your ideal line to use in this situation? I'd appreciate any suggestions on which type and lb test line to use.