Micropterus salmoides

I'm looking for a quality jerkbait similar to the LC Stayesee 90 ver.2. Although the Staysee's diving depth is listed at 8-10ft I believe it's more like 6-8ft. I want a jerkbait that actually reaches 8-10ft. Any suggestions?

I'm still waiting on the new sugar cane sticks. Now that's some tough, durable fiber.

With the 103HA, I'd suggest lighter jigs and texas rigs, Senkos, flukes, weightless worms, maybe small crankbaits. If you do a lot of pitching with lighter lures the 103HA is ideal. The 100HA is better suited for 1/4 oz+ lures and long casts, but will still pitch well with lures 1/4 oz and greater, which is why I want a 100HA. For me it is more versatile. For a rod I'd suggest anything lightweight and sensitive from 6 1/2-7ft. I use G Loomis GLX for jigging and worming and IMX for horizonal lures. St Croix Legend Elite or Legend Tournament, Dobyns and Powell also would be nice. I won't go into specifics since you haven't listed a budget for a rod. As far as line, I was referring to line strength. If you typically don't use anything lighter than 1/4-3/8 oz and also use heavier line I'd suggest returning it if you can and exchanging it with a 100HA. Or check various forums to see if someone would be willing to make a trade with you. Good luck.

I've gone back and forth on my lipless crankbaits and ultimately decided on Gamakatsu round bend. Gamakatsu's introduction of size 3 trebles has provided me with the ideal size for lipless crankbaits, as well as many crankbaits and topwaters. The EWG is touted as having better fish holding ability, but they are not as strong as round bend. I've had them bend on occasion at the intersection of the straight and curved sections. They also have a smaller bite when compared to a round bend of equal size. Some people prefer them when fishing in heavy cover because they claim that EWGs have less chance of snagging. I've used both in cover and didn't notice a difference. Round bend hooks are stronger and I haven't noticed more fish coming off. I also like the fact that they have a wider bite. Whatever you decide make sure you upgrade the stock hooks by at least one size. The size 3 may seem huge when you first start using them, but my hookup percentage increased. I even tried a size 2 in front and 4 in back but the size 2 was too big. Small fish were destroyed by that hook so I felt bad and started using size 4 EWGs. Once Gamakatsu came out with the size 3 I found my ideal hook. I use it for both front and back hooks.

dhark, I contacted Daiwa and was told that 1/4 oz and heavier with line sizes greater than 12lb go with the 100HA. Anything lighter than 1/4 oz and lines less than 12lb go with the 103HA. That seems to be the consensus on fishing forums that I've come across.

I'm confused. I thought there was a Steez 100HA for the U.S. market. Here's info I found on the Daiwa site. http://www.daiwa.com/About/steez_bc_release.aspx http://www.daiwa.com/Reel/detail.aspx?ID=192

I've narrowed down my choice for an all-around jig and texas rig reel to the Steez 100HA or 103HA. If I'm throwing jigs I'm primarily using 3/8-1/2 oz and occasionally 3/4 oz. When using texas rigs it's typically 3/16-1/2 oz. I may also use the reel for Carolina Rigs with 3/4 oz weights. With weights ranging 3/16-1/2 oz I typically use an underhand roll cast. Heavier weights, i.e. 3/4 oz, I tend to use a normal cast. Carolina rigs definitely require a normal cast. I probably only pitch about 10-20% of the time with 3/16-3/8 oz weights.

I'm considering a Zillion 100HA (or Zillion HLC) as a spinnerbait/buzzbait reel. Does it have more cranking power than a Shimano Core/Mg? My main criteria is cranking power, but I want at least a 6.3:1 gear ratio. I'm curious how the Zillion 100HA's cranking power, or Zillion HLC, compares to Shimano's HEG reels, specifically the Core/Mg

Which reel among the three would you guys prefer and why? I can get any one of the three for roughly the same price, so price isn't a factor. Thanks.

I purchased some FC Sniper and InvizX for my spinning and baitcasting reels, respectively. Should I use backing, and if so, how many yards?

Is the Steez ideal as a reel for using frogs and braid or would the Core be better suited? Hopefully, I'll get the Steez for my jig & worm rod and then a Steez or Core for my frog rod.

What are some good lines for drop shotting? Is fluorocarbon the favored line now? I've only used Trilene Big Game and P-Line Fluoroclear. I'd appreciate information on experience with various lines. Does anyone know what line Aaron Martens' uses. Thanks.

I'm looking for a new rod for jigging & worming. I'm replacing a GLX MBR784C. I tried my GLX MBR843C and it wasn't powerful enough for me, hence my interest in the MBR844C and BCR854C. I love the MBR series but wonder if I would get a slight improvement with the BCR854C. The rod will be used exclusively for jigs and texas rigs. I'm looking for feedback on the differences between the two rods as well as anglers' experiences with the rods. Thanks.

I also use G Loomis' CBR845C for cranking. I have 3 of them, in fact. One of the most versatile rods I own. I also use them for lipless crankbaits, jerkbaits and topwaters, such as the Zara Super Spook, Sammy, popper/chugger, prop bait, basically most lures with treble hooks. It's my bread and butter setup for throwing shallow crankbaits, like the 1/4 oz. Speed Trap. It also works well for ripping lipless crankbaits from weeds. You just have to rip a little harder since the 845C has a mod-fast action. During the post spawn, when vegetation has nearly matted on the surface, I will cast over it with topwaters, and I was surprised how powerful the backbone was when fighting 5-7 lb fish that hit my lure and buried me in the weeds. You may not be able to horse fish out of thick vegetation, but you will be thankful of the rod's more forgiving action once a big fish is in open water. The only situation I would want to upgrade to a stiffer rod would be if I were shallow cranking in heavy wood cover. And that's only if I fished that type of cover extensively. I would still use the 845C for limited fishing in heavier wood cover. Good Luck.

Today I was casting and pitching my Sweet Beaver into pockets that formed among dense vegetation that nearly mats on the surface. I was trying to maintain a vertical fall so that the lure fell directly into the hole. What's the best way to achieve this? Stripping line by hand immediately after the lure hits the water? Or letting the lure free fall allowing the weight of the lure peel line off? Thanks.

I need replacement hooks for a Chug Bug. The stock hooks just aren't cutting it for me. I've already missed several fish that took the bait under, loaded my rod up, then came free. Any suggestions? Are there any companies that make a quality rear treble with mylar flash or should I get a feather rear treble? Thanks.

I normally use a 3/0 Gamakatsu G-Lock hook for Zoom 6" lizards when I'm fishing open water or sparse cover. Now that Spring is in full swing there is a lot of shallow flooded vegetation. As a result I've been missing the hookset on a few fish. I've heard a lot of anglers increase the size of their hook when fishing cover. I thought of changing to a 4/0 G-Lock hook. Any input appreciated. Thanks.

What color Tru-Tungsten weights do you guys use?

I've been using Lucky Craft jerkbaits - Pointer 100, Staysee 90, Flashminnow - for several years now with great success, but am considering branching out and gaining confidence with other manufacturers. I'm specifically looking at Megabass' Ito Vision 110, Daiwa's TD Minnow Type SG, Smithwick's Rattling Rogue, and Rapala's X-Rap. I would like to know how these compare to the Pointer 100. What are there actions like? Do they work better with hard rips or more gentle rod movements? Are there certain conditions/situations that one would be used over the others. I guess I would like some type of guideline that I could refer to, so that when I'm out on the water I can make the appropriate choice. I know that when it comes to bass fishing there are no hard and fast rules. Often it's a trial and error process where we let the fish tell us which lure they prefer. I just want as much information about these jerkbaits so I can make my initial decision with confidence. Thanks.

I have a SBR812C Spinnerbait Series rod but find it to be not powerful enough. I assumed the SBR813C would be too powerful after seeing how thick the lower blank was. Maybe I'm wrong. I typically throw 3/8-1/2 oz. spinnerbaits and buzzbaits. I occasional throw 1/4 oz. ones as well. The MBR843C is slightly more powerful than the SBR812C, less powerful than the SBR813C, yet has a softer tip to cast a wider range of lure sizes. If the SBR813C can handle 3/8-1/2 oz. lures with ease, and still manage 1/4 oz. lures I would consider that rod. I have received quite a few recommendations for the G Loomis Spinnerbait Series rods. Thanks.

I'm looking for a dedicated spinnerbait/buzzbait rod, either the G Loomis MBR843C in GL3 or IMX. I've heard that the GL3 is a little more forgiving, which may aid in hook sets, but I am concerned about the extra weight. I know a lot of people get IMX when it will be used as an all-around rod for reaction baits as well as jigging baits. My use will be for spinnerbaits and buzzbaits only. Any help appreciated.

I have a G Loomis MBR784C, a 6'6" rod, which I use for jigging and worming. I'm considering switching to a MBR844C, a 7' rod for improved hooksets and versatility. I know about the general differences with casting accuracy but would like to know what changes to expect when working my lure - rod weight, balance, etc. Thanks.

I'm looking for a G Loomis rod to be used as an all-purpose spinnerbait rod. I've narrowed my choices to either the SBR813C, MBR843C, or MBR844C. I have a SBR812C and find it to not be powerful enough. I primarily use 3/8 and 1/2 spinnerbaits with 17 lb line and fish lakes that have an abudance of vegetation - hydrilla and some stringy aquatic grass that grows to ~13 ft - from spring through fall, with weed mats forming in the summer. My priority for the rod is the cover I'm fishing with lure rating secondary. What are the differences between these three rods? Any feedback appreciated. Thanks.

I use a G Loomis CBR845C Crankbait series rod. It is a Mod-Fast action Medium-Heavy power rod. I use it for all my crankbaits, ripbaits, and topwater lures that have treble hooks. For ripbaits, staysees and pointers for example, I use 10 lb P-Line CXX. I'll upgrade to 12 lb when I'm fishing pointers and flash minnows in shallow vegetation. This rod has a powerful butt section and a more limber tip, yet I have no problem horsing 3-6 lb fish from vegetation. For example, during the post spawn I will cast sammies and zara spooks over vegetation that has come to the surface to get to the small area of open water up against the bank. When I hook up I have to bring that fish back through the vegetation that is 5-8 feet thick. This rod handles that situation well.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I too hope this thread delves into more technique specific G Loomis rods. I primarily fish a reservoir that has rock cover and sparse wood when the water temperature is below 60 degrees. I also fish barren shallow spawning flats when the water climbs into the low to mid 50s during those first warmer days of the season. If the water level is high there will be isolated spots that have thick reed clumps, even if the water is 50 degrees, as they are a hardy plant. Once the water climbs over 60 the vegetation begins to proliferate and by the time the spawn is full swing the vegetation is quite dense. Throughout the summer months dense weed mats form all over the lake. Three to six pounders are plentiful and theres a good chance of catching fish in the eight to ten pound plus range. I've been hesitant to purchase some of the newer GLX technique specific BCR rods due to the recoil guides and the extra fast taper. I thinks it's mostly because I don't like the way the recoils look but I also wonder about their longevity. I don't use braid for senkos but if I wanted to I would be hesitant with the recoils. The two rods that I have considered in the BCR series are the BCR864 Senko rod and BCR854 Jig & Worm rod, both in GLX. I prefer the fast taper of these rods. I wonder how those two compare to each other and how both compare to the MBR844C. I wish I could get out on a lake with all the rods I have considered and find the winner but that just isn't practical. Going into a tackle shop and checking out various rods gives me some idea but is a poor substitute for on the water experimentation. That's why I come here to get feedback from those who have used various G Loomis rods. Thanks again.