bishoptf

Yeah no worries, they have a glitch at that price for a 1000yd spool is a HUGE discount so I am sure its some matrix glitch etc...I will keep checking though if it ever adds properly to the cart I would love to have a spool at that price.

Thanks I didnt notice that on my phone, that stinks since that would be a great deal...ugh. I think I may chance it, I can always send it back, here are the screen shots, title says one thing but if you look at the size quantity its correct...when you go to checkout it clearly change to the 200yd spool...to good to be true...bummer.

Ugh why can't I ever find these deals, thats a nice reel...I'm a shimano guy but just bought a bunch of abu black max because of price but would have been nice to have some of those...Congrats!

On the low end budget, ebay has some Abu Garcia Black Max3 baitcast reels new(other) for $33 shipped.

*minor rant/ Upgraded/replaced the existing equalizer/shackles with a Dexter EZ-flex. Wasn't the most fun since its been dang near 100 and even in my garage it's like an oven. I honestly do not understand why companies do not have a better baseline of quality, I would have gladly paid $500 more on the boat price to have this already done. For dual axle trailers plastic bushings and non greaseable shackle bolts (not sure thats a word, but you get it) are not going to last long so why not just put something better from the start, kit cost me $330 but again why not just do it and include it in the price, I just don't get it. It's not just nitro, when I started looking its all kind of boat trailers, RV trailers etc that all do the same thing. The other thing is the vortex hubs come with a plastic cap and I've read lots of folks having issues with the cap cracking etc,. Tracker makes an aluminum cap that you can get for $8 from the parts department but again why isn't it that way from the factory, a whopping $32 to use aluminum caps vs plastic. /*rant over...:) It's done now and I can keep things greased and should last a lot longer. Only other trailer upgrades are a ramp and clamp or something like that and replace the bunks.

Yeah I agree I wish I had the option when purchasing to have a choice since I would go for the ones without a barb but maybe we are few in numbers, just wish I had the option. I will start pinching mine down.

Ok so I know I'm not the sharpest tool but when folks say pliers are most using needle nose pliers?

I think I am going to start removing the barbs from most of my hooks. Still haven't decided if I am going to do it on my cranks and other swimming baits but all of my worm/jig set ups I think I would like to do it. Would like to know if anyone else is doing it and what they have found to be the easiest way to remove the barbs. I know you can crimp them, file (by hand or with dremel) etc but just thought I would see what most have found to be the easiest. Thanks

ALF just had the Shimano SLX MGL 70 for $99 (out of stock now), wish I had known since I would have picked up a couple, they sound like a really nice real. Appreciate all the input, keep them coming! Since I am freshwater only what kind of fish is that?

Understand, for the most part my budget stuff has held up good enough, maybe not the lightest etc but I'm not tournament fishing and really outside of the laguna rods and the reel handle not many other issues. I'd rather spend money on tackle etc, why I stated the title was bang for buck, I think there is some decent stuff that won't break the bank. Just thought I would see what other folks are using and have had good luck with.

I actually liked the Laguna but when it snapped on a hook set I was a little surprised and then it happened again...so no more of them. Not a big guy, wife calls me scrawny but I tend to set the hook and I dunno maybe it was something I did, lol...I have Arid X on the list along with shimano SLX. Going to look at the Abu Max and the Lews LFS classic speed. Keep the suggestions coming...good stuff.

Understand and why I did not use best since thats subjective. I listed what I currently use and I do not have any rods over $100 all are much less. Why I used bang for buck, I hate to use the word cheap but trying to find decent rods in that sub $100 price range that really perform better than their price. I guess if I had to list a price it would be sub $50-100, but again not about being cheap but ones that perform almost as good as the pricier rods.

Great input what I was looking for....did a quick look at the Arid X, I see a lot of 2 piece rods, hate 2 piece rods I assume they can be found in one piece also? nevermind I went to the mfg page and see both listed...thanks.

Thanks where are they carried or where do you purchase them from, should have stated that in my original thread. Looks to be a Diawa rod, little gun shy since the only rod's I've ever had snap on a hookset were Diawa Laguna but will read up on them...

Where do I find the BR suggestion reliable suppliers thread?

Notice I did not say best on purpose, I am looking for just well made bang for your budget suggestions to look into. Ipurchased a new boat and have more room so you know what that means. I would like to add a few more rods and reels but I am a budget guy so while I like the $$$ stuff I just try to find well made bang for your buck equipment. Preferences would be to keep cost as reasonable, here is what I have on hand currently and just looking for suggestions to go look up and read more. I have H20 express premier rods, Diawa Laguna Spinning (Like the rod but will not purchase any more, snapped 2 of them on hook set, lol), some really old rods from my teenager years (older team shimano). For reels I tend to be a shimano person for bait casters, citicas, curados and one h2o express mettle. Spinning reals are a mix of shimano sienna and okuma stratus (dicks sporting good house reel, really smooth, the only problem I have had with them is the reel handle coming off and its not repairable, have to find another handle). Anyway I just thought I would get some suggestions for what budget folks have found to be pretty decent and thought I would ask.

Understand, I peaked at several and none of the ones that I looked at had pressure treated wood. I think the EPA or something changed since at least the ones I looked at from White River Marine (Nitro, Triton, Ranger) all had normal wood. Not sure about the other manufactures though but I thought I cam across a posting about epa not allowing them to use it any longer.

The boards they appear to use these days is not pressure treated and just looks like a normal 2x4 material, pine would be my guess. At least for me they will just not last that long so I will replace the boards with cedar or something equivalent and paint and seal them then gatorbak over that. I just tend to want to do it and forget about it, from what I have read if you do that you should be good for some time.

Will try to do a follow up when I do it, I know @A-Jay has ultimate bunks and they may still be an option but leaning towards the gatorbak's. Only negative I have seen is that if you drive on gravel/dusty roads can collect stuff in the grooves but thats not a issue for me. I just know the bunks that are on it now will not last long and I'd rather do it now before I forget and then regret it one day when one decides to go south...lol.

Yeah what I do not like about flush mounts besides the big ole hole is that most of the time it puts it at a anlge and depending on the boat can be partially obscured by the steering wheel. I like that this raises it up and allows you to angle it, really is so much better. The nice thing about the garmin graphs is they are quick release, press the locking mechanism and it lifts off. Takes 5 secs and then I can take them with me or lock them up etc...

There are a lot of nice mounts out there but they are also $$$, makes things go faster but lots of ways of doing things. Like my bow mount was 1/4" aluminum angle, one of the mount sites has the same thing painted for $90, $20 from amazon then add paint which I already had black paint. The console graph was $40 from Bass pro and the aluminum sheet was $20 again from amazon. Again others sell that stuff but its in the hundreds range, mine cost me $60 total. The one mount place that I would have gone with and I think has reasonable priced mounts is called str8up mounts - https://www.str8upmounts.com/ and a local guy making somestuff baldwin iron works - https://www.baldwinironworks.com/ great small shops that respond quickly and affordable products.

Completed most of the boat upgrades last week, comedy of errors with Basspro and gift card that was holding me up. Took it out for its maiden voyage monday, mainly to break in the mercury engine and just ensure everything was working. Only glitch that I have is with the Garmin graph in hull transducer losing depth at speed, made some tweaks but its not perfect and disappointing since I went with the 2d in hull to avoid this. Have come across other threads where folks have had similar issues, maybe the NVT hull on the nitro or something but the transducer is mounted right in front of the lowrance one and per specs. It's kind of odd since doesnt happen at the same speed etc, just need to play with it some more and figure out if there is a setting that will take care of the issue. Other rigging issues were that my garmin footpedal was bad out of the box, when paired with the TM made it shutter and spin back and forth. Garmin support was good about troubleshooting and figuring out the issue but it delayed me getting the boat out on the lake. Seems to work as it should now, will have to use it some more to see what I like and dislike about it. Here is what I have done: replaced tm batteries with 100ah Powerusrus bluetooth lithium batteries installed 12x24 lithium trollbridge (charge on the run and more) Installed all new wiring to a blue seas fuse panel mounted in the starboard locker, 8awg to fuse panel then 12awg for each device on the bow (Helix 10, mega360, Garmin echomap ultra2 10", garmin foot pedal, console Garmin echomap ultra2 10") goes through a blue seas 40a breaker, tied to first lithium battery that also used for trolling via trollbridge) Replaced stock Minn Kota Maxxum TM with Garmin Force Humminbird Mega 360 Bow mounts for Garmin and Bird 10" units ( Baldwin Metal works mount with aluminum L bracket DIY) Replaced Lowrance 5" console graph with 10" garmin echomap ultra2 unit ( aluminum sheet, Basspro shops lockdown mount, 3d printed clam shell) Flow rite remote drain plug RMP transom saver Garmin gt36 jackplate transducer mount plate (so I didnt have to drill into boat) 3d Printed d-rings for wiring in back of boat Boat seems to ride and handle well, took it to lake of the ozarks and while it was a monday there was still traffic and it did fine, sure a bigger boat would be better but she should do fine for what I want and where I want to go. I still have some trailer upgrades to do and will be working on those as time allows in the next few weeks (replacing the stock shackles, replacing the bunks with gatorbak and adding a ramp and clamp). I have pictures for most stuff, not the best at showing before and after but before posting all of them will post some and if anyone wants some more details on any area let me know. Bottom line by purchasing a previous year stock boat that was clearance price (basspro gift card, humminbird rebates) and doing all the rigging work myself I believe I was able to save substantial from purchasing one rigged the way that I wanted, around 14k. I priced new ones rigged how I wanted the boat and nitro was 14k and the others were even higher savings. Now that is rigged how I wanted it rigged, there are lower cost options if you wanted to go with bird or lowrance graphs but an apples to apples comparison I saved at least that much. Anyone want pricing details hit me up PM.

Needed some zip tie mounts for my transducer cable running up the jackplate so I 3d printed some out, nothing fancy but I think with a dab of silicone on the back (I recessed the back) I think it will hold good enough, guess we will see, lol.

Thanks, I think I did look at them in the past, still trying to figure out how to keep it as compact mount wise with the 2 graphs at the bow. The one that I liked the best is a Str8up dual riser mount but I guess I waited to long and he is out of them now, lol. I like his mounts and they are more reasonable priced vs a lot of the ones out there - https://www.str8upmounts.com/ just going to do the wiring and get everything I can done and then figure out what mounts to go with.

I have the Hbird Helix 10 and M360 unit, since they were running rebates back in april that ended April 30. But looks like they started additional rebates and now they are instant so no waiting, hbird must really be feeling the pressure from garmin since they have had rebates almost non stop since March. I do not have my garmin graphs, mainly since I am waiting for the basspro gift card. Figured I need to wire and get it all done and mounting the graphs would be the last bit to do, at least that is what I am thinking. Still trying to decide can I live with a 10" at the bow vs 12" etc... If you do decide to go with a m360 and have a force TM let me know and I can tell you which mount I went with, there are lots of options and most are $$$...lol.