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Reels With Carbon Drag

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I received a revo mgx the other day. I was always told growing up to fully disengage the drag while not using the reel. Is this something that is still necessary to do? What about with carbon drag systems on most revos? What about on spinning reels?

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I always back off the drag AND spool tension after every use. Some of my reels have carbon drag washers. I look at this the same way I do using scent on baits; it can't hurt.

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Yeah I know that. I'm just wondering when I'm tired after a fishing trip, and forget to back off the drag, is it worth pulling them back out before my next trip? It's really just laziness on my part combined with not wanting to form a habit based on something that is/ isn't true.

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If you forget its not the end of the world, if you fish often then just loosen it up next time. Myself i never do it and have never experienced any drag issue ever and i fish a lot.

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Throughout the fishing season I don't back anything off. When I put my rods on the rack for the winter I back off the drag, and spool tension.

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Spinning only for me, I do back my drags off at the end of each outing.  Most of my reels to my knowledge have felt pads, I say to my knowledge as I've only had to replace a few.  I don't have a bit of problem with any stock drags.  I do have 2 reels that come stock with ceramic/stainless/carbon fiber drag system, operate just beautifully.  At replacement time I would buy carbon fiber, not much more in price, but I wouldn't be concerned until I needed to replace.

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No, there is no need to pull your rods back out to back the drags off.   You can leave them set all season and not worry about it.  

 

I always back mine off after every trip but it's mainly so I will remember to tighten them up before every trip.  If it's something I always do, I am less likely to forget to tighten them, which could cost you a fish.

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Your Revo MGX is a casting reel  and you would be well served to back off the drag system when ever you store any casting reel. This is because most casting reels also have, as a part of the drag system, Two Drag Spring Washers on the main drive shaft. They look like this ( ). When you tighten the drag they compress and exert pressure on the drag discs just below. Keeping them compressed all the time weakens their ability to do this . This can be restored by putting them in a vise and tapping the bend back in.

 

This is not necessary on most spinning reels that have a different drag system.

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 I recommend not running the drag on lock down as it puts undue strain on the whole rig. If you feel you must I'd let the tension off when you're done. If it's on a normal setting between trips don't sweat it. 

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Yeah I know that. I'm just wondering when I'm tired after a fishing trip, and forget to back off the drag, is it worth pulling them back out before my next trip? It's really just laziness on my part combined with not wanting to form a habit based on something that is/ isn't true.

 

How "tired" can you be ?  :Idontknow:

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Most bass anglers using baitcasting reels rarely set the drag or back it off. When they break off a big bass it's the fault of ............ fill in the blank. A few bass anglers using spinning reels with light line learn quickly to check the drag and some will set it properly using a scale, most just pull on the line to feel tension.

When you fish for big strong pulling fish like salt water species you learn to take care of your reel drags, back them off after each outing, set them before using each outing to prevent breaking off fish.

Your drag tension washers take a set if tightened down for long periods of time and should always be backed off, takes about 1 second to back off, maybe 10 seconds to adjust tension properly; 1/3rd the line strength.

Tom

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 I recommend not running the drag on lock down as it puts undue strain on the whole rig. If you feel you must I'd let the tension off when you're done. If it's on a normal setting between trips don't sweat it. 

 

Whats the correlation between drag tension and line weigh?

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Whats the correlation between drag tension and line weigh?

drag tension < line weight

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Whats the correlation between drag tension and line weigh?

The rule of thumb is to set drag at 1/3 of line bereaking weight. For example 5# of drag for 15# line. You have to use a little discretion with braid. I leave what my gut tells me will protect the weakest link in the setup (line, leader, rod reel etc) Except for punching mats or slop frogging I rarely use more than 5-7 #s of drag here in the N.E. 

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I agree with DVT regarding setting the drag with braid, much of it has to with the size of your target.  Using 20# braid with the diameter of 6# mono divided by 3 the drag should about 2#.  If targeting say juvie tarpon or similar fish 20-40#, 2# of drag won't get the job done.  Braid does give you that latitude to increase.

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I think I will continue to back off the drag if I remember. If not, I'll just wait til I got out in a few days. I would always back it off when storing it for winter. Thanks for all of the help!

-Steve

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Great information here. One of the reasons this 

site is awesome! :smiley:

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The torque to initially break loose the drag disk from the drag tension washers is dependent on the force applied. When you leave tension on the drag washers they take a set and lock onto the drag disk until enough torque is applied to break free of the spring force. Your drag usually doesn't slip smoothly like it should and that causes line failures.

Spinning reels are more suspect of uneven drags causing jerky or uneven drag pressure, it can also happen to bait casters.

You eliminate the problem by backing off the drag force or replace damaged drag disk....your choice.

Most fresh water bass rods will break under 8 lbs of dead weight or drag pressure, 3 to 4 lbs is more than you need for bass fishing. If you need more than 5 lbs, use your thumb to add momentary force.

Tom

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I don't know if backing off the drag is all that important but I do it any way.  I back off my drags when driving from one fishing location to another.  Doing a lot of urban fishing I just may get side tracked and do something other than fishing, takes but a second or 2 to reset.

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I agree with DVT regarding setting the drag with braid, much of it has to with the size of your target. Using 20# braid with the diameter of 6# mono divided by 3 the drag should about 2#. If targeting say juvie tarpon or similar fish 20-40#, 2# of drag won't get the job done. Braid does give you that latitude to increase.

So braid diameter is now the new weight rating also??? Wouldn't 1/3 of 20lbs braid be set at 7lbs????

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Plain and simple. Drag systems on both spinning and casting reels have washers and springs inside not only the drag material itself. Compressing these springs and washers will lessen its effect over time. If you set your reel at 5lbs of drag at the beginning of the season and don't back off after each use you will be dealing with a significant change at end of season. If reels are serviced regularly then it may happen less. In older reels a felt disk was used as the resistance material inside and was easily compressed. Even with today's composite materials used may not be compressed the springs and washers are still the same!!!

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So braid diameter is now the new weight rating also??? Wouldn't 1/3 of 20lbs braid be set at 7lbs????

If I were bass fishing with 20# braid I would not be setting the drag at 7#.  There are some that use 50# braid with a diameter of 12 lb mono, conventional wisdom puts the drag about 4 #, yet many lock the drag down without issue. Even setting 1/3 of 50# braid puts the drag at 17#, most bass size reels don't have that much drag.  Braid pretty much allows one to be a bit more aggressive with the drag if they choose.  A good portion of people set by feel, they probably don't know the exact number anyway.  

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If your also saying the standard for setting a drag is 33%... How does YOUR conventional wisdom for 50# braid at 4# of drag work?!?!? That's a setting of ONLY 8%!!!!! Please explain.

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