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connecting a 24V trolling motor

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hey. i just changed the 2 deep cycle batteries on my 24V trolling motor. i wired it just as it was, but im not sure its properly wired. 

first of all, the + side of one is NOT connected to the - side of the other one. IIRC the batteries need to be in series to obtain 24V. 

the boat has 4 thick wires coming out of a loom, 2 red ones and 2 black ones. and the on board charger has 4 wires as well, 2 red ones and 2 black ones. the red ones have an inline 30 amp fuse. 

so, the + post of each battery has a thick red and a thin red wire, and each - post has a thick and a thin black ones. i will post a picture tomorrow as today its too dark to notice, but you get the idea. 

i changed my batteries because the batteries would discharge in 1/2 day, so i assumed they were going bad. but i noticed one of the + posts had a loose nut, maybe it was not getting charged properly? i will check the old batteries in Autozone. 

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Does your trolling motor have a 12-24 volt switch? If so (and it most likely does) than the trolling motor makes the connection for 24 volts internally. Lots of them did this in the past.

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Well, I'd say if there were only two thick wires and the batteries did not have the pos of one battery hooked to the negative of the 2nd battery, you are not connected properly for 24 volt operation.  I'm assuming that you have a separate battery for the outboard motor.  If so, you must have another accessory (s) hooked up to the trolling motor batteries that use the second pair of thick wires.  If that is the case, you have the trolling motor hooked up to just one 12 volt battery along with one bank of your charger and the second pair of thick wires are hooked to just the second 12 volt battery along with the 2nd bank of your charger and provide power to some other accessory.  Definitely don't have 24 volts going to the trolling motor, though.

You can probably resolve this by connecting a thick jumper from the + terminal on one battery to the - terminal of the other.  Then, connect whichever wires go to your trolling motor with the red wire to the + terminal of one battery and the black wire to the - terminal of the other battery.  If the second pair of thick leads are for a 12 volt accessory, you can hook them to one of the other 12 volt battery and you will have 12 volts for that accessary.  It would be nice to know what that second pair of thick wires goes to.

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 This is how they should be hooked up:

Connect the positive cable of the TM to Battery 1 on a positive post and the negative to battery 2 on the negative post. Next take the jumper wire that connects the two batteries and one end of the jumper on the positive of battery 2 and the other end to the negative of batter 1. Lastly, hook up your charging cables normally. (one positive, one negative on each battery.) I don't like wingnuts as they come loose easier than others. I use SS locking washer below the connections and use a SS locking nut and tighten it down /w a ratchet. A loose connection can give you fits without you knowing it.  If you don't have a jumper, you can get a jumper from walmart in the battery section for 5-7$

If I'm reading your post right, it doesn't sound like your batteries were hooked up correctly for the TM for a 24v series.  A 24v motor will only have 1 set of pos/neg cables. . I would hook up individually (1 pos and 1 negative) to a single battery to find out what each does. Whichever one of the cables doesn't run your TM shouldn't ever be hooked up to your series. 

 

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2 hours ago, fishnkamp said:

Does your trolling motor have a 12-24 volt switch? If so (and it most likely does) than the trolling motor makes the connection for 24 volts internally. Lots of them did this in the past.

i have not seen a 12-24 volt switch. the boat is a 1994 Javelin, and the trolling motor a Motorguide 71 lb maybe from the same year. that would be my guess, the motor making the connection internally.... ill take some pics tomorrow... 

 

2 hours ago, Ray K said:

Well, I'd say if there were only two thick wires and the batteries did not have the pos of one battery hooked to the negative of the 2nd battery, you are not connected properly for 24 volt operation.  I'm assuming that you have a separate battery for the outboard motor.  If so, you must have another accessory (s) hooked up to the trolling motor batteries that use the second pair of thick wires.  If that is the case, you have the trolling motor hooked up to just one 12 volt battery along with one bank of your charger and the second pair of thick wires are hooked to just the second 12 volt battery along with the 2nd bank of your charger and provide power to some other accessory.  Definitely don't have 24 volts going to the trolling motor, though.

You can probably resolve this by connecting a thick jumper from the + terminal on one battery to the - terminal of the other.  Then, connect whichever wires go to your trolling motor with the red wire to the + terminal of one battery and the black wire to the - terminal of the other battery.  If the second pair of thick leads are for a 12 volt accessory, you can hook them to one of the other 12 volt battery and you will have 12 volts for that accessary.  It would be nice to know what that second pair of thick wires goes to.

yes i have a separate cranking battery. i will have to check to make sure the batteries are fr something else, i dont want to connect them in series and burn something up... 

 

2 hours ago, iabass8 said:

 This is how they should be hooked up:

Connect the positive cable of the TM to Battery 1 on a positive post and the negative to battery 2 on the negative post. Next take the jumper wire that connects the two batteries and one end of the jumper on the positive of battery 2 and the other end to the negative of batter 1. Lastly, hook up your charging cables normally. (one positive, one negative on each battery.) I don't like wingnuts as they come loose easier than others. I use SS locking washer below the connections and use a SS locking nut and tighten it down /w a ratchet. A loose connection can give you fits without you knowing it.  If you don't have a jumper, you can get a jumper from walmart in the battery section for 5-7$

If I'm reading your post right, it doesn't sound like your batteries were hooked up correctly for the TM for a 24v series.  A 24v motor will only have 1 set of pos/neg cables. . I would hook up individually (1 pos and 1 negative) to a single battery to find out what each does. Whichever one of the cables doesn't run your TM shouldn't ever be hooked up to your series. 

 

thats what i was thinking, but im not sure now, as fishnkamp mentiones the motor could be doing the 24V connection internally...

heres a pic,

 

13567391_10157132853875187_1733145430223413330_n.jpg

 

the other battery is the same, a set of red/black thick wires from the loom, and a set of thin ones from the 2 bank charger... 

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Lets go to the boat itself. If you look at the plug on the end of the wire ( this is on the trolling motor side) the connector should have either 2, 3 or 4 female terminals on it.  Next pull the panel and see how many wires are feeding the boat side of the socket 

 If only two then the jumper needs to be at the battery. It there are three wire then it may be a 12-24 volt trolling motor (very popular in the 90's) and the jumper is done internally in the head of the trolling motor. Take a look on the trolling motor and see if there is a switch on the head unit that says 12 24 or if the foot pedal has a rocker switch that may say 12 off 24 or some had a rocker for on off hi nypass and a little toggle that changed 12 to 24.  The head of the trolling motor should say 71 pound 24 volt, 71 pound 12-24 volt. 

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thanks a lot... i think i MAY have found the problem... or not....

first of all, my boat socket has 4 terminals....

IMG_5594.JPG

i pulled the panel, and noticed the socket gets the 4 thick gauge wires that go to the batteries... so im thinking here is where the socket makes the 24V connection... however, the PO eliminated the plug on the TM.... the smaller red and black wires go directly to the TM... 

IMG_5591.JPG

 

 

and the TM says only 71 lb 24V, is has no 12-24 switch or anything... 

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so, my proposed solution is to change the socket to a normal one, one that only receives a POS and a NEG wires directly from the batteries... then, wire the batteries in series with a jumper cable, and install a plug on the TM so i will be able to disconnect it.... what do you think??

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They have replaced the trolling motor at some point and wired it up wrong. Here is a trick to get the most power and least current loss which means the longest use of a battery per day. Remove all of the wires from the batteries and socket.  Hook both heavy red wires to one terminal on the socket. Do the same with both black wires on the socket.  Now hook both heavy red wires to battery #1's positive terminal. Get some heavy gauge wire and terminal ends. Make the jump from Battery 1's negative terminal to battery #2's positive terminal. Now both heavy gauge black leads get connected to Battery # 2's negative terminal.  Personally i would add a large amperage circuit breaker to the wiring at the batteries. Install them on both  battery 1 positive and battery 2 negative connections.  Now I would go ahead and install a plug back on the trolling motor wires and wire it up to match the socket..  Wired up this way will make it easier to remove the trolling motor if you ever have to.  My last three boats including my current boat, were set up this way.  I run a Minn Kota Maxxum 70 pound thrust that the dealer set up this way.  Here is an example of the breaker I mentioned although there are lots of different ones out there.  

http://www.cabelas.com/product/boating/electric-trolling-motors/electric-trolling-motor-accessories|/pc/104794380/c/104716980/sc/104312880/manual-reset-circuit-breaker/738260.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Felectric-trolling-motor-accessories%2F_%2FN-1100550%2FNs-CATEGORY_SEQ_104312880

Now you mentioned you have an on board charger. If it is a 2 or 3 bank charger there will be 2 or 3 separate positive leads and the same number black negative leads. These go on just like the batteries were not jumpered. The banks of the charger are isolated so one red  and black will go on battery ones terminals and the other red and black will go on the other batteries terminals.  This will allow everything to work fine. By utilizing double wires for the positive and double wires for the negative the resistance in the circuit is lowered and less amperage is lost to heat thus the batteries will last longer during its use that day. Just make sure to recharge the batteries upon returning home and the batteries will give you a long life,

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thanx a lot!!! ill do as you mention, since i already have the 2 sets of wires from the battery compartment to the bow. 

now, i have some questions. first of all, which amperage circuit braker should i get? 40 or 50 amp?? right now both positive wires have a 30 amp fuse. 

and second, im not sure the current socket works properly. and even if it does, im not sure i will be able to get a plug for it. so, assuming i have to purchase both, which amperage should i get them?? i live in Mexico, so purchasing in the US, even though possible, is not my first option. i will have to look locally for something that can work, in electrical auto shops or such. but for this, i need to know the amperage they need to withstand without damage. 

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Can  you order from Bass Pro? They do ship internationally. Also there is a store located in the southern town of Harlegan TX, maybe that would help   Here is the socket if it is not in good enough shape. 

http://www.basspro.com/Marinco-12/24V-Trolling-Motor-Receptacle/product/38067/

Here is the plug http://www.basspro.com/Marinco-Trolling-Motor-Male-Connector-Plug/product/1242/

I would get a pair of 50 amp breakers.

 

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thanx. 

 

i can order from BPS, but shipping to Mexico is risky (sometimes things dont arrive) and expensive. so i ship to El Paso Tx and then have to drive 3 hours one way to pick them up... 

so, i guess ill try to get a 50-60 amp plug and socket??  i read the reviews on the plug you mention, but they are not positive....

 

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So much if this is so far out in left field, I'm not getting involved.

I just want to say, there should be a switch marked RUN, CHARGE, make sure it's in the RUN position,  That's what connects the batteries in series for 24V, not inside the TM. The RUN/CHARGE  switches the batteries from series to parallel, so a 12V charger can be plugged into the receptacle an charge both batteries from there, 

If the TM is straight 24V, I would just connect the two red cables together and the two black cables together, each set in parallel, bypass all that crap in the bow, add some Anderson 50 connectors and connect directly to the TM.  Put the two batteries series with a 50 amp breaker in line and make life simple and way more efficient,

Easiest way to tell if the TM is 12/24 or just 24V, the 24V only has two wire at the plug, the 12/24 has three wires.

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First he has shown there is no switch. Second his charger is an on board  multi bank charger so there is no run charge switch involved.and he would not charge back through the trolling motor receptacle.

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Didn't say he would be using it, just those systems normally have one, and if it does, it has to be in the run position.

However, this is why I would not get involved with it, Ya'll have fun. 

 

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On 9/7/2016 at 11:09 AM, Way2slow said:

So much if this is so far out in left field, I'm not getting involved.

I just want to say, there should be a switch marked RUN, CHARGE, make sure it's in the RUN position,  That's what connects the batteries in series for 24V, not inside the TM. The RUN/CHARGE  switches the batteries from series to parallel, so a 12V charger can be plugged into the receptacle an charge both batteries from there, 

If the TM is straight 24V, I would just connect the two red cables together and the two black cables together, each set in parallel, bypass all that crap in the bow, add some Anderson 50 connectors and connect directly to the TM.  Put the two batteries series with a 50 amp breaker in line and make life simple and way more efficient,

Easiest way to tell if the TM is 12/24 or just 24V, the 24V only has two wire at the plug, the 12/24 has three wires.

thanx, thats what i did and it worked really great, its a completely different TM now, battery lasts longer (i also replaced the old batteries with new ones though), but its much stronger now... 

i dont know what the OP was trying to accomplish, but i just put the batteries in series, without modifying the TM or socket connections, and now i have 24V on the TM cables.... i also found out that now i have 24V on the socket, so i just need to get an appropriate plug for it and it will be all set... 

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