Just trying out the "trick" of putting a rivet sleeve into a small paddle tail swimbait.

 

I used 1/2 inch long sleeves, and they don't go all the way to the nose on a Keitech Fat Impact.  

 

Seems like it would work OK, there's just a gap between the end of the sleeve and the nose of the bait where the line will pass through.

 

Would longer be better for some reason? 

 

Any preferences for diameter?

Lol, where did u come across this rig?

13 minutes ago, TxHawgs said:

Lol, where did u come across this rig?

 

My man Hot Rod, @Hot Rod Johnson , for one:

I had seen the article about Ott elsewhere before that.  Didn't want to threadjack when all I was looking for is the size.  The rivets I found at my local HD only went up to 1/2 inch long.  Maybe that's OK since the hole where the line comes out is small and there isn't a significant open pipe through the lure.

 

I have been meaning to do it and just getting around to it tonight...

 

That's funny, me and Ott talked about it at a seminar class and he showed it to me.

On 2/1/2017 at 8:08 PM, TxHawgs said:

 

That's funny, me and Ott talked about it at a seminar class and he showed it to me.

 

Cool.  How long were the rivet sleeves Ott was using?  Did they come out of the bait or stay inside?

PM sent.

Ott was using one through the nose and one through the belly.  He matches them up the best he can.

This is a great rig; it really does improve hook-ups (especially smallmouth) whenever you can get away with a treble, and it makes your baits last longer.

 

If you use rivets and light line, make sure to check that the inside and edges of your rivets are not too rough.  1/2" long by 1/8" wide is the only size I've used, and for a lot of baits it doesn't reach all the way from the hook slot to the nose.  Not reaching the front makes it a bit annoying to thread the line through, but you can use a sewing needle.

 

Even better than a rivet IMO is a small length of a thin plastic straw (like a bar straw).  Dirt cheap, no concern with line abrasion, and you can cut to the exact length you need.  You can use a lighter and 'mushroom' the end that your hook eye will ride against.  

 

I first make a guide hole through the bait with a sewing needle, then slide in the straw from the back with a little superglue, then trim it at the nose (I do whole packs in advance).  Use the leftover straw for the next baits.

 

Wrap some lead solder tightly around the shank of the treble for added weight. 

 

      

5 hours ago, fissure_man said:

This is a great rig; it really does improve hook-ups (especially smallmouth) whenever you can get away with a treble, and it makes your baits last longer.

 

If you use rivets and light line, make sure to check that the inside and edges of your rivets are not too rough.  1/2" long by 1/8" wide is the only size I've used, and for a lot of baits it doesn't reach all the way from the hook slot to the nose.  Not reaching the front makes it a bit annoying to thread the line through, but you can use a sewing needle.

 

Even better than a rivet IMO is a small length of a thin plastic straw (like a bar straw).  Dirt cheap, no concern with line abrasion, and you can cut to the exact length you need.  You can use a lighter and 'mushroom' the end that your hook eye will ride against.  

 

I first make a guide hole through the bait with a sewing needle, then slide in the straw from the back with a little superglue, then trim it at the nose (I do whole packs in advance).  Use the leftover straw for the next baits.

 

Wrap some lead solder tightly around the shank of the treble for added weight. 

 

      

Gotta a picture?

On ‎2‎/‎2‎/‎2017 at 6:24 PM, chadmack282 said:

Gotta a picture?

 

You can actually lube the outside of the straw with a little Mend-it. Works great.

On 2/1/2017 at 11:18 PM, TxHawgs said:

PM sent.

 

 

What do you mean PM?

We're all listening.