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JohnTr20

CMC high Speed hydraulic Jack plate

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I have a triton tr20 and have been fishing shallow lakes consistently for the past year and am worried that I’m gonna rip the lower end off my motor. So I started looking around at hydraulic jack plates but I don’t want to spend more than 1k$ on a hydraulic jack plate but don’t want to cheap out either. So I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the CMC hydraulic jake plate. Also I don’t know what height to get, I noticed the TH marine hydraulic jake plate can get to over a foot but do I really need a foot difference or is 5 1/2 enough to get on plan in shallow water??

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You need a hot foot along with a hydraulic Jack plate because you can't do 3 things at the same time. 5" is more then enough lift fit a bass boat, but you still need to lower the prop and trim the engine down to get on plane in any water depth.

Tom

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@Way2slow is pretty good at setting up boats 😉

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I've never had any dealings with a CMC, all mine have been Bob's so can't comment.

On a bass boat, I've never used more than about 6" of travel.

The Flats boat has a really deep tunnel and to raise the motor up high enough to run in a few inches of water it takes about 9" of travel to run shallow and then drop it down enough for a strong hole shot, depending on the prop it has on it.

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I've run the same CMC plate on my last two boats. I've been pleased with it, although not as nice as a bob's or as fast either it has served me well. Jackplates tend to raise the motor roughly the same amount, the size you're seeing is the setback, or how far the motor will be mounted behind the transom once the plate is installed. The larger the setback the more leverage can be applied to the hull. Your best bet would be going on a sight like scream and fly or even *** and finding other users that run the same setup as you and see what they put on for setbacks and how their boat preforms after. A few things you'll want to purchase along with your jackplate is a water pressure gauge (if you don't have one already) and the blinker style trim as it'll allow you to keep your hands on the wheel and still control the plate. 

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Good info ^^^^

I would also suggest contacting* Kent Brown, Triton Boats rep, he is very knowledgable with this hull design and helpful.

Tom

* google him.

 

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If referring to the setback, the distance the jackplate holds the motor away from the back of the boat, there is a little math I use for that. Measure from the back of the pad to the leading edge of the motor.  Level the pad using the tongue jack, set the level on the anti-cav plate and level the motor with the trim.  Measure from the drain plug to the motor.  I generally like 1.25 to 1.5 inches per foot of boat length.  If the hull is still under warranty, most manufactures have a max set back you are allowed or it will void their warranty so be sure to check.   

Most boats have a built in set back, the jack plate just adds to it.

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My current boat came with an extremely old one and when it went out I decided to replace it with another CMC plate. Very pleased with mine so far. Got it cheap too on eBay brand new. 

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I have a CMC on mine, and its a quality unit, actually CMC became part of the TH Marine company that make, and distribute a plethora of marine products including Atlas Jack Plates.

I think you'll be pleased with the CMC, and being a TH Marine product which are "top shelf" for customer satisfaction.

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On 7/7/2018 at 12:12 PM, WRB said:

You need a hot foot along with a hydraulic Jack plate because you can't do 3 things at the same time. 5" is more then enough lift fit a bass boat, but you still need to lower the prop and trim the engine down to get on plane in any water depth.

Tom

I do have the hot foot, I was just concerned with the product and the amount of lifted need to get on plane in shallow water 

On 7/7/2018 at 6:53 PM, WIGuide said:

I've run the same CMC plate on my last two boats. I've been pleased with it, although not as nice as a bob's or as fast either it has served me well. Jackplates tend to raise the motor roughly the same amount, the size you're seeing is the setback, or how far the motor will be mounted behind the transom once the plate is installed. The larger the setback the more leverage can be applied to the hull. Your best bet would be going on a sight like scream and fly or even *** and finding other users that run the same setup as you and see what they put on for setbacks and how their boat preforms after. A few things you'll want to purchase along with your jackplate is a water pressure gauge (if you don't have one already) and the blinker style trim as it'll allow you to keep your hands on the wheel and still control the plate. 

I’ve got the pressure gauge and the blinker style trim, I just never heard of CMC and I fish lake Seminole a lot and just worried about the motor being ripped over. 

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I have a CMC. Mine is older and is not the high speed actuator. It has been sufficient for my needs. It was on the boat when I bought it so I'm not positive on its age, although I would guess around 8 yrs old minimum. 

 

I replaced the relays in 2016 I believe and had an o ring fail about the same time. Technically the actuator is not serviceable so the o ring should've meant actuator replacement but I got lucky and was able to tear it down and repair. Even if that had been game over it went 6 yrs problem free. For the money I think they're pretty decent plates. 

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