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Clint Averitt

finesse cranking line set-up for spinning gear....straight fluorocarbon, braid to floro, braid to mono

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Clint, I have found that braid for a mainline, manages better than

any other line. You can go straight braid as many do, but I go with

a leader every time. Just how I roll, everyone is different.

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I'd go straight fluoro.  The knot is just another point of failure. 

 

I was crankbait fishing just a few weeks ago gear I borrowed from a buddy, and he used a leader.  A few casts later, I did the 400 yard cast with his brand new crankbait.  Yup, the knot failed. 

 

He acknowledged it was his fault, because he tied the knot.  But it's just another reason (among many) that I never use leaders.

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I use mono for my spinning rod that I throw shad raps and 1.0 squarebills on. 

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If you have a nice moderate action spinning rod Id use #8 braid of some sort no leader for finesse cranks sub 1/4oz.

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10 hours ago, Clint Averitt said:

Thanks Darren!!  Would you go with a mono or floro leader?

I use fluoro and/or a copoly leader. Don't have straight mono,

but I wouldn't have a problem with it.

 

For fluoro, I'm using 6, 8, and 10# Gamma Edge, and for copoly

I'm using Yo-Zuri 6, 8, and 10. Those are my usual line tests,

but I'll go as low as 4 and as high as 15...fwiw.

 

And as for the knot, I prefer easy-to-tie uni-to-uni, or the mod'd

Albright, aka Alberto. However, I have learned a new variant of

that from Shin Fukae that is easy to tie, and quite strong.

 

 

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If you're using a soft rod straight braid or braid with a leader.  If the rod is stiffer mono is what I use.

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Never, Ever will I use a leader for anything. 

 

 

 

 

 

Mike

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I use Sufix Siege in 10 pound test for a main line. I add a barrel swivel and then a 2 to 3 foot floro leader. I believe the the swivel helps stops line twist problems.

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14 hours ago, Glenn said:

I'd go straight fluoro. 

 

12 hours ago, QUAKEnSHAKE said:

If you have a nice moderate action spinning rod Id use #8 braid of some sort no leader for finesse cranks sub 1/4oz.

 

4 hours ago, Alex from GA said:

If you're using a soft rod straight braid or braid with a leader.  If the rod is stiffer mono is what I use.

Not to hijack, but this was my exact dilemma just this morning.  I was standing in front of the fishing line display in the store and I almost grabbed a spool of 6lb Berkley Vanish for my new "finesse" rig.  I picked up a Powell XF "shaky head" spinning rod for half price on Friday and I put a KastKing 2000 on it.  I was already using 8lb mono on the reel so I left it but I was pondering the fluoro this morning.  With an XF rod (and it feels fast) would I be better off just leaving the mono?  

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10lb straight braid. Braid handles better with little to no memory, it’s thinner which allows better casting with light lures and lets then run deeper than thicker mono or FC. No stretch gives better feel and even makes it easier to get back lures that have snagged. 

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Straight fluorocarbon...  Tatsu or InvisX

 

 

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^^ This ^^   You must have a balanced outfit for finesse crankbaits, which have small, thin-wired hooks.  That dictates using balanced gear that "gives" during the fight.  This means:

  • A reel that has a smooth drag (doesn't "catch" or vary - just smooth and steady at all settings)
  • A medium power, moderate action rod that bends and flexes during the fight, thus absorbing the violent pulls and runs from an angry fish.
  • A line that's sensitive, yet can stretch to absorb head shakes at the source - where the bait is. Braid doesn't stretch, which eliminates it from contention here.

Merely backing off on the drag is an attempt to compensate what the rest of the gear is lacking.  Which means it won't perform the way you need it to when that PB is on the other end of the line.  Stop compensating, and set up your equipment the right way for better results.

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5 minutes ago, Glenn said:

^^ This ^^   You must have a balanced outfit for finesse crankbaits, which have small, thin-wired hooks.  That dictates using balanced gear that "gives" during the fight.  This means:

  • A reel that has a smooth drag (doesn't "catch" or vary - just smooth and steady at all settings)
  • A medium power, moderate action rod that bends and flexes during the fight, thus absorbing the violent pulls and runs from an angry fish.
  • A line that's sensitive, yet can stretch to absorb head shakes at the source - where the bait is. Braid doesn't stretch, which eliminates it from contention here.

Merely backing off on the drag is an attempt to compensate what the rest of the gear is lacking.  Which means it won't perform the way you need it to when that PB is on the other end of the line.  Stop compensating, and set up your equipment the right way for better results.

Nope disagree with this. Smaller cranks use smaller wire hooks that penetrate a bit easier very rare to have a small crank tossed while using braid/nanofil and a ML/Mod 8' rod.

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Braid to mono leader to keep the braid off the hooks.  When baits tumble and catch wind the braid has a tendanacy to become wrapped up on the hooks or split ring.  A little leader of non braid helps to prevent this from happening.

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I use quality mono and fluoro only on spinning and casting gear. Change my line quite often. 

16 hours ago, QUAKEnSHAKE said:

Nope disagree with this. Smaller cranks use smaller wire hooks that penetrate a bit easier very rare to have a small crank tossed while using braid/nanofil and a ML/Mod 8' rod.

I agree with above. I fish a lot of Shad Rap styles of baits. Jointed styles also. The spinning Rods I use to crankbaits fish are on the moderate side. Not fast or X-Fast. Like everyone on here I’ve lost fish but I’ve landed some nice river smallies fishing lighter CB’s and lighter line.

 

I have no idea how to fish braid. 

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16 hours ago, BaitFinesse said:

Braid to mono leader to keep the braid off the hooks.  When baits tumble and catch wind the braid has a tendanacy to become wrapped up on the hooks or split ring.  A little leader of non braid helps to prevent this from happening.

Very much this.  Become proficient at tying a leader knot and it will not be a point of failure.

 

I run FG leader knot on everything and the leader breaks (many times) before the knot.

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I'm guessing guys cranking with braid aren't cranking rocks, especially with zebra mussels? It'd be easier for me to just take the baits straight out of the package and throw them directly into the lake, at least that way they might not be stuck in a fish's face when the line breaks.

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