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txchaser

Bought first baitcaster (FuegoCT) - setup, line, out of the box tips?

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Found a combo Fuego CT and daiwa MH/F rod I couldn't pass up ($85 new) so I bought my first baitcaster. Thanks to all the people that posted the 100 threads or so that I read. I probably fish on the lighter end of things, weightless senkos, light topwaters, etc. All bank fishing, ponds mostly. I'll have a spinning rod if it turns out the really light stuff doesn't play well, but my ideal would be an all-around setup. 

 

A couple of questions come to mind:

1) anything I need to do to this reel out of the box? Seems like some platforms have must do tips before you do anything at all. 

2) Planning 30lb sufix, 15 flouro leader. Worried maybe it's too heavy? The idea of being able to stop worrying about weed/pad snags is pretty interesting though. Thoughts? Also should I back the sufix with anything or just spool it all on there?

3) I understand that the setup procedure for this is a little different. Anything I need to do other than read the instructions and do what it says?

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

ps: water clarity usually 3-9 feet

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1) Tighten the brakes all the way down. Back them off as you gain confidence in casting.

 

2) Leaders are overrated. 

 

3) Watch a couple videos on how to adjust the spool tension.

 

Finally, unlike a spinning rod, the action is in the wrist. You don’t need to whip the rod around to make a good cast.

 

Just keep doing it. It’ll probably be tough at first but keep practicing through and after a night or two of sleeping on it you will find you have delevoped enough coordination to really start having fun with it.

 

Good luck. Please report your results.

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4 hours ago, txchaser said:

 

Yes. Here is my two cents.

 

1) anything I need to do to this reel out of the box? Seems like some platforms have must do tips before you do anything at all. - YES. SOMETIMES THE GREASE INSIDE THE REEL WILL NOT PERFORM AT 100% DUE TO THE TIME THE REEL WAS ON THE SHELF. I WOULD SUGGEST YOU TAKE THE REEL TO A REPUTABLE PERSON WHO CAN OPEN IT AND ADD OR REPLACE THE GREASE WITH NEW GREASE. PUT THE BRAKES IN AN "X" PATTERN OR TURN THEM OFF. THEN ADJUST THEM AS NECESSARY TO AVOID BACKLASHES. SEE BELOW FOR A TIP ON SETTING UP YOUR BAITCASTER TO AVOID BACKLASHES. AND CHECK OUT THE REEL TO NOTE IF YOU NEED TO PUT ANY OIL ON THE SCREW OR OTHER PARTS OF THE REEL.

 

2) Planning 30lb sufix, 15 flouro leader. Worried maybe it's too heavy? The idea of being able to stop worrying about weed/pad snags is pretty interesting though. Thoughts? Also should I back the sufix with anything or just spool it all on there? - LOOK FOR THE LINE TEST LIMITS ON THE REEL TO MATCH YOUR ROD. CHECK OUT THE ROD'S LINE TEST AND BAIT WEIGHT PARAMATERS. ADD THE LOW AND HIGH LINE TEST NUMBERS TOGETHER AND DIVIDE BY 2 TO OBTAIN THE BEST LINE TEST PERFORMANCE FOR YOUR ROD. JUST MAKE SURE YOUR REEL CAN HANDLE THE ROD'S LINE TEST GUIDELINES AND YOU WILL BE FINE. ALSO, DON'T OVERSPOOL THE LINE ON THE REEL. LEAVE ABOUT A QUARTER OF AN INCH FROM THE TOP OF THE SPOOL UNFILLED. BACK UP BRAID WITH MONO ON YOUR SPOOL TO KEEP IT FROM SLIPPING.

 

3) I understand that the setup procedure for this is a little different. Anything I need to do other than read the instructions and do what it says? - OF COURSE, BUT WE DON'T DO THAT. WE JUST START FISHING WITH OUR NEW REELS. :) HERE IS WHAT I SUGGEST YOU DO WITH YOUR NEW BAITCASTER FOR EVERY BAIT YOU USE AT THE TIME YOU USE IT. THIS IS NOT MY IDEA. I GOT IT FROM IKE:

 

RIG UP BAITCASTING RIG AS YOU WOULD TO CAST IT TO START TO FISH.

PUT BRAKES IN AN "X" PATTERN OR TURN THEM OFF.

POINT ROD TIP TO 11 O'CLOCK AND RELEASE THE SPOOL.

USING YOUR THUMB, SLOW DOWN THE BAIT'S FALL TO THE FLOOR (NOT CARPET) SO THE SPOOL STOPS WHEN THE BAIT HITS THE GROUND.

ADJUST THE DRAG TO HAVE IT TIGHT AND ADJUST THE SPOOL TENSION SO THAT WHEN YOU DROP EACH BAIT THE SPOOL WILL STOP TURNING WHEN THE BAIT HITS THE GROUND.

KEEP DOING THIS UNTIL THE SPOOL STOPS WHEN THE BAIT HITS THE FLOOR.

YOU CAN THEN ADJUST THE SPOOL TENSION BY LOOSENING OR TIGHTING IT A LITTLE AFTER A FEW CASTS.

THIS WILL STOP BACKLASHES AND WHEN YOU THROW YOUR TOPWATERS YOU CAN START YOUR RETRIEVE JUST AS THE BAIT IS GETTING READY TO HIT THE WATER WITHOUT FEAR OF A BACKLASH.

REMEMBER TO DO THIS EVERYTIME YOU CHANGE YOUR BAITS WHILE FISHING.

IT WILL BECOME A SIMPLE THING TO DO.

YOU WILL HAVE TO DROP YOUR BAIT A NUMBER OF TIMES UNTIL YOU GET THE SPOOL TO STOP WHEN THE BAIT HITS THE FLOOR. JUST KEEP DOING IT OVER AND OVER AND YOU WILL GET THE HANG OF IT.

 

When reeling in your line put tension on the line so it goes back on the spool tight.

 

Also, when fishing, always keep a finger on the line as it comes off the reel so you can feel for strikes. Of course, you can't do this when using moving baits, but you can do it for plastics.

 

With your baitcaster set up, put it aside and go out and purchase a knitting needle from Joann's Fabrics or Walmart. One of those long gold ones. Use it to help get any backlashes out if you do get one. Remember, by setting up your baitcasting rig as outlined above the chances for a backlash diminish almost 100%.

 

Have your baitcaster reel serviced at the beginning of each year. If you can find someone who can put some graphite into the grease you will not have any internal problems. Wash the reel when you get home from fishing, drying it as best you can, and letting it air dry in your man cave.

 

Also, check the cowling screw. If it becomes loose, your line will pile up on one side or the other of your spool. Try to tighten the screw which is easier said than done. If the screw is loose, take it to your repair guy to check out the reel and tighten the screw.

 

You use oil on the outside moving parts of your baitcaster. DO NOT USE ANY GREASE ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE REEL. If you do, you will be inviting dirt into your reel and you will get the grease all over the place.

 

Change mono and fluoro line with new line when you go fishing. Always check the line by running it over your thumbnail by using your index finger to keep it tight on your thumbnail while you are fishing. If you feel any nicks, cuts, abrasions, or anything "different" you have to cut the line to remove the weak spots. You can keep the braid on your baitcaster without any problems.

 

After the season, remove all line from the spool; loosen the spool's tension so it spins freely; and loosen the drag.

 

Hope this gives you some insight on baitcasters and how to keep your reels in tip top condition.

 

Now go out there and catch something for us.

 

Merry Christmas!

 

P.S.  How about introducing yourself in the Introductions section of the Forum?

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One more thought.

 

When storing your reel during fishing season and in the winter, always back off the drag and spool tension.

 

You want the spool to spin freely when not in use.

 

Just another suggestion.

 

 

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These reels are completely different than any other casting reel. Set magnetic dial to 0, set spool tension to the spot where it just takes side to side play out of the spool. Then, put brakes on 20 and back them off from there. (Making smooth casting strokes, not a whipping motion like spinning rods) You should not have to touch the spool tension from here on out. Ever. Unless you change line types. Adjust your magnetic brakes when changing lures or during windy conditions. If you set up your reel the same as a regular reel you will not like it and have problems with it. Follow my instructions and your reel should perform great. Feel free to pm me with questions. I own 7 reels with the magforce z braking system. 

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37 minutes ago, CroakHunter said:

These reels are completely different than any other casting reel. Set magnetic dial to 0, set spool tension to the spot where it just takes side to side play out of the spool. Then, put brakes on 20 and back them off from there. (Making smooth casting strokes, not a whipping motion like spinning rods) You should not have to touch the spool tension from here on out. Ever. Unless you change line types. Adjust your magnetic brakes when changing lures or during windy conditions. If you set up your reel the same as a regular reel you will not like it and have problems with it. Follow my instructions and your reel should perform great. Feel free to pm me with questions. I own 7 reels with the magforce z braking system. 

What is the reason for setting the magnetic control to 0 prior to setting the side to side play of the spool?  Also can you explain why changing line type would require readjustment of the spool tension.    I just want to be sure I understand, in your instructions we are setting spool tension by the amount of spool side to side play and not adjusting the spool tension based on ROF.

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53 minutes ago, Heartland said:

What is the reason for setting the magnetic control to 0 prior to setting the side to side play of the spool?  Also can you explain why changing line type would require readjustment of the spool tension.    I just want to be sure I understand, in your instructions we are setting spool tension by the amount of spool side to side play and not adjusting the spool tension based on ROF.

That is just what is suggested by Brent ehler, daiwa pro. And I have noticed that line types do effect the way that the spool behaves. Braid I can run the spool tension a bit more loose than fluoro or mono. Same with line diameters, I can run 12lb fluoro more loose than 25lb fluoro. 

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Also, the magforce z brakes are opposite of most other reels in the fact that the spool tension is your rough tuner and the magnetic brakes is your fine tuner. 

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2 hours ago, CroakHunter said:

Also, the magforce z brakes are opposite of most other reels in the fact that the spool tension is your rough tuner and the magnetic brakes is your fine tuner. 

Interesting, you find this to be different than most other reels?  Can you name me a couple, been away from this for a while.  You talking older reels or newer?

 

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6 hours ago, Heartland said:

What is the reason for setting the magnetic control to 0 prior to setting the side to side play of the spool?  Also can you explain why changing line type would require readjustment of the spool tension.    I just want to be sure I understand, in your instructions we are setting spool tension by the amount of spool side to side play and not adjusting the spool tension based on ROF.

Correct.  Do not set the spool tension for a slow fall with these reels.  You will have poor casting performance if you do this.  The spool tension is there to keep the spool from rattling around and in the event you want to skip the the reel you can apply additional tension. It is the Magforce Z braking of the reel that controlls the spool during the cast.

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21 minutes ago, BaitFinesse said:

Correct.  Do not set the spool tension for a slow fall with these reels.  You will have poor casting performance if you do this.  The spool tension is there to keep the spool from rattling around and in the event you want to skip the the reel you can apply additional tension. It is the Magforce Z braking of the reel that controlls the spool during the cast.

OK, I understand your thoughts on this, I am still a little confused on the necessity to set the magnetic control to 0 prior to making the spool tension adjustment.  Thoughts?

 

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No need to get so bogged down with the finer points initially. Fish it hard out of the box then have it serviced after a season. Load the spool with cheap 10 lb mono leaving room for 75 yards of braid. Skip the leader. Peel off 120' of line and put a piece of electrical tape around the spool. This will keep backlashes from getting too deep. Google the  thumb pressure method of removing a backlash. Line ratings are useless on fresh water rods, ignore them (within common sense). Tie on a 3/4 oz weight or casting plug. Master light side arm lob casts progress to overhead and roll casts and pitches. Keep varying thumb pressure as the line feeds stopping the spool before touchdown. The goal is not "thumbless" casting, rather control and accuracy. 

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33 minutes ago, Heartland said:

OK, I understand your thoughts on this, I am still a little confused on the necessity to set the magnetic control to 0 prior to making the spool tension adjustment.  Thoughts?

 

You don't need to set the mag brakes to 0 to set the spool tension.  

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7 hours ago, CroakHunter said:

That is just what is suggested by Brent ehler, daiwa pro. And I have noticed that line types do effect the way that the spool behaves. Braid I can run the spool tension a bit more loose than fluoro or mono. Same with line diameters, I can run 12lb fluoro more loose than 25lb fluoro. 

I find this as well. 30lb braid loose spool tension, just enough to stop any side to side play as explained above. I just spooled 15lb big game mono and I had to tighten the tension up quite a bit. I am newer to baitcasting as well so that probably has a lot to do with it. Great real though. Fished it all last year and caught some decent fish with it. 

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4 hours ago, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

No need to get so bogged down with the finer points initially. Fish it hard out of the box then have it serviced after a season. Load the spool with cheap 10 lb mono leaving room for 75 yards of braid. Skip the leader. Peel off 120' of line and put a piece of electrical tape around the spool. This will keep backlashes from getting too deep. Google the  thumb pressure method of removing a backlash. Line ratings are useless on fresh water rods, ignore them (within common sense). Tie on a 3/4 oz weight or casting plug. Master light side arm lob casts progress to overhead and roll casts and pitches. Keep varying thumb pressure as the line feeds stopping the spool before touchdown. The goal is not "thumbless" casting, rather control and accuracy. 

This is the best advice you could get.  I've taught my daughters (9 and 12) how to use casting gear with just a little tape on the spool and some backyard practice. Good luck! 

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Reporting back...

 

1) Thank you for all the advice! It made a huge difference. In particular the different process for setup, and the thumb reel trick to get backlashes out. I got plenty of them, but they went away quickly with that. 

 

2) Still not used to the wrist-only casting, just need more time I suppose. Getting there. 

 

3) Wow I can cast a weightless senko on this with no backlash. Unexpected. Mag still on 16 though. 

 

My new problem is that I have decent range and accuracy from 10-12 o'clock, but it is a train wreck from about *** o'clock. Parallel cast on the right side... it's not happening. And from 9-10 o'clock it's dodgy with this sidearm, likely as not to end up on the bank. 

 

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On 12/16/2018 at 6:55 AM, CroakHunter said:

These reels are completely different than any other casting reel. Set magnetic dial to 0, set spool tension to the spot where it just takes side to side play out of the spool. Then, put brakes on 20 and back them off from there. (Making smooth casting strokes, not a whipping motion like spinning rods) You should not have to touch the spool tension from here on out. Ever. Unless you change line types. Adjust your magnetic brakes when changing lures or during windy conditions. If you set up your reel the same as a regular reel you will not like it and have problems with it. Follow my instructions and your reel should perform great. Feel free to pm me with questions. I own 7 reels with the magforce z braking system. 

*Very interesting Fuego CT specific instructions ! ... So for best performance do NOT set the spool tension knob for the lure to slowly fall with the reel stopping when the lure touches down on the floor ? ...Must have something to do with the design of the Daiwa Magforce Z braking / spool start up system design  ?

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Someone linked this a while back in another thread. Here is a vid with Brent Ehrler talking about how he sets up his Tatula SV which has the same breaking system. The relevant part of the video starts at the 1:40 mark and lasts about 2 minutes. 

 

 

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