about 5 feet of water, lots of emergeant grass, relatively close to shore, muddy bottom.

i'd probably fish a fluke along the edge of the grass, or throw a plastic worm into the grass texas rigged with a small weight and hop it along the ground out of the grass

what would you use?

Depending on the lake but I'd throw  frog in the low light hours, and then use a senko weightlees, and a lightly rigged t-worm. I might try a jig too.

Corey

Flip/Pitch plastics or jigs

I would hop the jig out of the grass.

and try a buzz bait.

It's rare that two anglers can agree on any two methods, but we come remarkably close.

I'd go with your zoom super fluke (white ice) T-rigged inverted on a 4/0 hook Gamakatsu Z-bend

"Unweighted" if your working over submergents <> "1/4 oz bullet sinker" if you want to punch back into the bulrushes or reeds.

I also like your idea of a plastic worm in the submerged weeds (I'm a patsy for a plastic worm).

The 6 to 8" worm of your choice: Ribbontail, Trick, Ringworm, Kut-tail, Paddletail, Tassel-tail, ~ ~ ~

No more than a 1/8 oz bullet sinker, but here's where we part company.

I wouldn't hop the worm (I save that for plastic crays), but would use a "crank-and-glide" retrieve.

If you're using a ribbontail worm, the 1/8 oz sinker is enough to keep it alive on a freefall.

BTW: If you're covering good weed beds, there's sand under that mud

Roger

iI'd throw a frog, like a Stanley ribbit rigged on a 4/0 Gamakatsu superline hook, and crawl it over the weeds and buzz it over open water. Then I would try flipping a heavy jig or texas rigged craw into the weeds. Also try tossing a fluke or a spinnerbait on the outside edges of the weeds.

I would probably start with a buzzbait and then maybe a 1/4 or 3/8oz spinnerbait. If I could not make anything happen with either of these baits I would go to a floating trick worm or senko. After that I would flip a light 1/4  or 3/8 jig in the pockets.

FYI

Emergeant grass: rooted in shallow water and having most of its vegetative growth above water

I would start off with a tube or a t-rigged plastic worm.

I would fish the edge with a buzzbait or a walking bait on top.

I would fish the edge with a bang-o-lure, trap, balsa crank, spinnerbait.

I would fish ontop of the grass with a grass frog.

I would flip the grass with a tube, sweetbeaver, or fry.

i would flip a creature style plastic

I'd swim a Rapala crankbait with sure set hooks through it. ;D ;D ;D

Fat Ika, weightless & weedless

6" Senko, weightless & weedless

It's rare that two anglers can agree on any two methods, but we come remarkably close.

I'd go with your zoom super fluke (white ice) T-rigged inverted on a 4/0 hook Gamakatsu Z-bend

"Unweighted" if your working over submergents <> "1/4 oz bullet sinker" if you want to punch back into the bulrushes or reeds.

I also like your idea of a plastic worm in the submerged weeds (I'm a patsy for a plastic worm).

The 6 to 8" worm of your choice: Ribbontail, Trick, Ringworm, Kut-tail, Paddletail, Tassel-tail, ~ ~ ~

No more than a 1/8 oz bullet sinker, but here's where we part company.

I wouldn't hop the worm (I save that for plastic crays), but would use a "crank-and-glide" retrieve.

If you're using a ribbontail worm, the 1/8 oz sinker is enough to keep it alive on a freefall.

BTW: If you're covering good weed beds, there's sand under that mud

Roger

how do you work a crank and glide? the only thing i do with a worm is lift my rod tip about a foot and a half pretty briskly, then slowly lower it while reeling in, then pause and repeat. i'm a noob with worms

If there was any way i could i would burn a rattle trap around the weeds and if not i would go with soft plastic texas rigged or unweighted fluke.

try fishing a large xrap. cast it out and work it up to the weed bed the let it sit for about 5 secs them reel back in

how do you work a crank and glide? the only thing i do with a worm is lift my rod tip about a foot and a half pretty briskly,

The Crank-and-Glide retrieve is my own concoction. When using a Lift-and-Drop retrieve, it's mandatory that the rod is lowered

at the exact speed that the lure is falling (neutral buoyancy). If the rod is lowered slower than the worm is falling,

it creates backpressure that destroys the natural freefall. If the rod is lowered faster than the worm is falling,

the angler will lose contact with the lure, making it difficult to detect a pickup.

With the Crank-and-Glide retrieve, only the reel handle moves, while the rod is held at the 2 o'clock position

throughout the entire retreive without moving. The crank-and-glide has two big advantages over the pump & drop:

1. The worm glides slowly on a tight line to the bottom, so the angler remains in constant contact with the lure.

2. Gliding on a tight line eliminates also eliminates the need to match the descent-rate of a falling lure.

After the cast, wait for bottom contact (signaled by a sudden sag in the line). Hold the rod at the 2 o'clock position,

and crank the reel 2 or 3 turns then STOP. Without moving the rod, wait as the lure glides slowly back to the bottom

on a tight line. During the glide, only the reel handle moves while mending the slack line that's created.

Repeat the Crank-and-Glide delivery until the worm is out of the strike zone then rip it back to the boat for the next cast.

Roger

I would use a frog first off.  

other options would a tube, creature, senko, jig.

Also find the weedline edge.  Typically this is one of the best spots to fish.

I would use a mojo rig, mojo weights cut through the grass better.