pondassasin

Thanks for all the replies guys

I'm referring to the shields. I did some research and I believe the ones I have are pressed shields. Is it kosher to remove one shield and flush the grease and then lube with oil? Will leaving one side open harm anything? Mind you I fish only fresh and I don't get out that often.

I recently purchased a new curado I and am trying to flush the bearings. I've done this before with older Shimano, but I can't see the retainer clips for the retainers (?) Is this a new style bearing or am I just going blind? Thanks guys in advance

Thanks, I'll see if I can't figure it out.

Yes, and I had no extra parts at the end either lol

I purchased a brand new Daiwa Sol the other day and dropped in 6.8:1 gears, carbontex drag and some Boca Os's. When I put the reel back together I noticed it felt a little geary. When I spooled it up and made a few casts I could really tell something wasn't quite right. I stripped the factory grease off and replaced with Ardent Reel Butter. I thought I put enough grease on the main gear, pinion and worn bearing gear but I'm wondering if I put too much or not enough. I understand it's probably hard to trouble shoot a problem without seeing the reel in person, but any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance guys

I've never gone shorter than 12" but it certainty wouldn't hurt to experiment. I've had times where i had the hook about 15" up and wasn't getting bit and went down to about 12" and started catching fish. Also, i typically use a 3/16 mojo weight.

I think most people will tell you that fluorocarbons in general don't have superior knot strength. If you are just learning to use a bait caster, yozuri would be a good line. It just has too much stretch for my tastes.

If you don't mind the price difference I feel Sunline Sniper is an excellent line for your intended uses. You can fill two reels if you use a little mono backing and the longevity is pretty good. I would go with at least 12# and maybe more depending on how heavy of cover you fish. Remember, if you fish fluoro, your knot is just as important as what brand of line you are fishing.

Shaw Grigsby knot for Texas rigs and the miller knot for drop shotting. Never had a problem with either. Both can be tricky to learn at first but tired correctly are very strong knots for fluorocarbon.

Invizx has way too much stretch for me and the abrasion resistance isn't very good either.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I just picked up a Powell 704 here for cheap so I'm happy. I owned a Powell spinning rod before and I wish I never would have sold it because it was such a nice rod. I definitely see more Powells in my future.

You might want to try something not in the upper echelon of fluorocarbons. Sunline Sniper FC goes for nearly half the price of Tatsu and I've had zero problems with it. I'm sure it's not tatsu-like but it casts easy, has good abrasion resistance, and is very strong. It has less stretch than yozuri and definitely more sensitivity. That being said, I'm dying to try a premium fluoro like Sunline Shooter, Today Upgrade, or Tatsu

I'm looking to get either a Powell Max 734C or a Mossyback 854. I'm gonna be using for 3/8-3/4 jigs, plastics, basically an all around heavier rod. Would the Mossyback have enough power and us it worth the extra $$.

+1 on the Powell Max. For the uses you mentioned I would go with the 704. It has a great tip to throw plastics and plenty of backbone for fishing jigs and swim baits. I agree there is no rod close in sensitivity and versatility at that price point.