J Francho

I have a '94 Bass Buggy that's great for taking kids and seniors out on.  Things I'd add to yours:
Vertical rod holders toward the stern
Bow mount TM with an auto deploy and spot lock
Don't completely ditch the low fishing seats, but get a back rest style bike seat
Kayak J-hooks so you can mothership
Long handle landing net
Docking pole
Learn to use the big OB to control drift
You already have the Bimini top
Some type of gimbal mount for the graph so you can see it from anywhere
Inboard trailer guides for easy retrieves

KVD L&L is all you'd ever need. Apply and let dry. Apply after ever trip. It's a can't live without deal for me. 

Moving baits can get slammed. Having an a angle offers all the insurance the bend of the rod can provide. 45-60* is plenty. 

I'm feathering in the first ten seconds of this video.

That makes sense.  Ok, so that probably means the spool reengages the gears when you let off the thumb bar.

Do more 12 oz. Curls to get into fishing shape.

Do more 12 oz. Curls to get into fishing shape.

Do more 12 oz. Curls to get into fishing shape.

They will be equal if the same line is used, and they are filled to the same level.

I would max out HP and get the highest power TM I could get.  The boat will never sell used with a 25 on it.  Skip the jack plate.  There's no reason to ever skimp on the TM, get an 80.  It worked great on my 18' Xpress and 22' Bullet.  You're not financing, so I'd shop elsewhere for electronics - they're way overpriced through the dealer and easy to install on an aluminum boat.  I'd want at least a 7" screen at the console and a 9" or larger at the bow.  SI and GPS are must haves.  After owning an 18' aluminum, I'd pony up for power poles, but I fish in the wind quite a bit.  Other tips, the folding chairs were never used in any of my boats, always go with bike seats.  Pro Pole seat post upgrades are meh, nice to have.  Retractable tie downs are not even negotiable for me.  I don't know what every trailer doesn't have them.  Absolutely get the cover and use it every time.  Good luck and post it when you get it!

8lb. Mono equivalent diameter. 20lb. breaking strength.

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Great idea to try both. Some guys love the braid and line in deep water, I don't I don't think there's a huge difference in the catching. I like simplicity of straight fluoro, and it works for me. I will say, as soon as I get into anything more than a hint of weeds, I switch from the light fluoro to the braid/leader rig. Good luck man, and report back how it goes.

I like the hook gap to be twice the width of the plastic. Owner Cutting Points are about the sharpest.

Just his own, North Fork Composites. G. Loomis was sold to Shimano, maybe 20 years ago. He consulted with TFO to put a bass line together, but he does not build them. They are primarily a fly rod company, so it made sense to have Gary come in and help them.

Core and  Chronarch both come in 50 size and are in production.

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/112746-good-sellertrader-list/

They will, occasionally, but we pour our own.  What you can do is put single overhand knot at the bottom of your tag end as a stopper.  You can also squeeze the crimp with pliers tighter if it pulls through too easy.

Carbontex will add power, especially if installed dry. 

I like a rod with a fast to x-fast taper, and more like a MH power.  Not the usual, whippy spinning rods.  I found one I really like, though it may be out of your range: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing_lures/pinnacle-DHC5-performa-review.html
 
It's around $160, which may seem high, but you get a TON of rod at that price. The other rod I might recommend is a Saint Croix Eyecon ECS68MXF.  Ignore the fact it's marketed as a walleye rod.  I use a couple of these for bass fishing just fine.  They are around $100.

I use a 3rd party photo host, like smugmug, photobucket, or even Facebook.

Contact Mike at DVT: http://www.delawarevalleytackle.com/
 
He's a friend of mine, and will do you right.

A marine boating store, like West Marine should have waterproof inline fuses.  You install it on the positive lead.  Any home improvement store will have the proper crimp on connectors in their electrical dept., though I recommend solder and shrink wrap for a better long term solution.  Go to a Lowes or Home Depot, and somone should be able to point you in the right direction.