skeletor6

What is stringer rot?

Anybody got any advice on this boat http://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/boa/3744589699.html It needs a new trim motor as it clicks, but does not move up and down. I can get it $2500 OBO It is a 1989 Astro Quickfire 17sc Any opinions appreciated. I am going to check it out tomorrow. Also My price range is now $4000 max

Does anyone know the left-handed baitcasting rod and reel that he was using in the Chernobyl episode? Just wanted to know out of curiosity. Thanks

You will get your wildcard if you send out for it. Loomis is in compliance with THUT's rep sample NRX's. Can say this from personal experience.

Are you sure about this? I do not believe this is the case

The NRX 893 is outright amazing. I have two of them, and they are worth everything I have spent on them. The sensitivity is off the charts, but beyond that it is extremely pleasurable to fish with. It will absolutely LAUNCH senkos and is an excellent jig/t-rig rod up to 1/2oz in moderate cover. I own a few NRX's and the 893 is my favorite. I have one of mine rigged with Tatsu and the other rigged with Shooter. I like pairing Shimano Curado 50e's on these. Hooligan, are you mentioning the GLX 894, or do you know something I don't? It is about time some more options arrive in the NRX series. Loomis has done a wonderful job expanding the GLX lineup. The 894 is on my "To get list" I would love to try one out to see how it compares with the NRX 893. Powell max's still are decent rods for their price, but after fishing with high end rods it is tough to go back. I still use my 683c as a topwater/jerkbait rod ATM.

Sounds like a nice deal you got!. Thanks for the input. Before the phone call we had a text message And I quote from that "I just put $700 into the motor last year to rebuild carb and tune up. It's a beast, runs great will reach 50mph everything works great except the fish finders. Not willing to go much lower on the price." I talked to the guy on the phone.(I am paraphrasing)... He bought the boat 4 years ago at an auction (800 bid or something like that). He said he had the motor looked at after he bought it by a boat mechanic and everything checked out good. The mechanic I guess said the motor was in great like new condition. He said this after I was asking about the compression check. I don't know if this was before or after the rebuilding of the carburetor and tuning. Said there was no soft spots in the deck or any repairs made to the hull. He actually was no sure if the boat is a 1980 Scalper because the logo or what not is not visible. He said he did research and that is the closest he could find. Any idea what this boat might be or how I could find out? Also, he mentioned that some of the clear coat on the fiberglass has/is peeling off and the looks of the boat looks better in the picture than it does in person. The fish finders he said are no good. He thinks they are fried from being left out, which sounded strange, but nonetheless useless. All of the gauges, work except for the speedometer. The trim works, but he said after a long period of sitting it will go down. Any idea if this is a precursor to failure, or reason for? Also, the livewell's work and they are in good condition and many of the compartments are plastic or polymer based. The steering also is smooth without any hitches and there is not any play in the transom. Also, it does include a cover and was stored inside last year, but was stored outside with the cover on the previous 3 years as he moved a year ago to the place that has a pole-barn currently. I talked to a trusted friend of mine who said he did not enjoy fishing out of of these style boats because he felt like there was little storage space and could fish at most 2 people. Does anyone have any idea of how wide the back deck is on this boat? (I guess that is hard to say w/o knowing the make/model/year). Anyways, he lives fairly close and is willing to let me test-drive it and all of that. Definitely I am going to give it a compression check and the testing indicated earlier in this thread. What would be a fair price for this boat? And is it worth checking into or should I keep searching for something different? Thanks!

Update: Hey guys I am back at it. No luck last year, I am back at it this year for the season. I still would like to sit at the range mentioned in the title. And most philosophies stand true. I would like opinions on the following stretch-my-budget boat. http://centralmich.craigslist.org/boa/3717511423.html Furthermore, the bass tracker aluminum boats with decks on front and back seem to fit the bill. I missed out on one a couple days a go. Just looking for some input. Thanks all. ~Skel

If you can afford the longer length for storage, travel, etc. I would go with it. They will cast, pitch, and flip further from my experience and give better deep water hooksets. I prefer longer rods for these applications, but I have a 7'1'' cumulus that works well for a jig/t-rig rod. That is just my input, there is not a huge difference in 2". I would look into the rod that you are getting, I would place a higher priority on the rod you might be getting, than the length's that are available of that rod lineup. For example, if you want a phenix recon I would get the 715c and not choose a different rod just because it offers a couple more inches in length.

I would go with the Citica boss. The PQ has a good track record, but the Citica is a really good buy too and will be slightly better IMHO. I like the E styled platforms over the G, but that is preferential.

I would seriously be worried about braids abrasion resistance on those stumps and logs. Sure, you can get high rated lb test braid, but if something sharp rubs on it its game over. A nice handling heavier lb test fluorcarbon with good abrasion resistance will be a beast in that type of cover. 15lb or 20lb tatsu, something like that is tough to beat and has great longevity. You can get three spools out of it with backing. Depending how much you fish it will last a long time.

I use mono for backing, topwater, and if I need a topwater/jerkbait or topwater/crankbait type of rod it will be used in that scenario as well. Mono is the best topwater line at the moment and it has its usage. If you are just getting started out, mono is a good way to learn to cast with your baitcaster as it won't be too expensive to replace. Different mono has different properties Suffix Siege is a pretty good all around line with nice abrasion resistance. Seaguar Senshi has superb handling, but poor abrasion resistance. Or you could just go with a large spool of the cheap stuff, its up to you.

To each their own. You can fish yozuri for topwater applications if you want to, but I have found that its buoyancy effects the action of the topwater bait. When you pop/walk/imply action or whatever depending on the bait, the line goes under the water .Per your theory, it is going to want to stay underwater effecting the next action applied. I've fished topwater with yozuri and mono side by side, mono allows the bait to act much more naturally. When the line sinks with mono, it wants to pop back up for the next action. Yozuri or any hybrid for that matter does not fish topwater as well as straight monofilament line. I have found almost all details of Hooligan's experiences to be accurate and unbiased. Fish what you may, but I feel it is somewhat misleading to say Hybrid line is going to fish topwater as well as monofilament. Once surface tension is broke, the tension on top of the water due to hydrogen bonding is lost. Thus it will desire to remain in its current sunken state. Monofilament and its buoyancy will want to float, it sinks, it will want to rise back up the perfect scenario for a topwater bait as you want your line to remain on top. Yozuri sinks, it wants to stay underneath, the wrong scenario for topwater applications. "Posted by Hooligan on March 29 2013 - 02:12 AM in Fishing Rods, Reels, Line, and Knots Hybrid isn't satisfactory for top water baits because it sinks, still. It's terrible trying to get popper to work properly with fluorocarbon."

Hybrid to me feels dead compared to a quality fluoro. The density of pure fluorocarbon line contributes greatly to its sensitivity. I haven't seen Aaron Martens name mentioned yet. The guy is one of the best finesse anglers out there. His Drop Shot knowledge is incredible.

Quality control issues is what I would chalk it up to. It could be you got a blank on the heavier/stronger side. If they don't strictly manage the blanks used in their rods, there is going to be inconsistencies.

OP, if you only have 1 setup to cover everything for fishing. You should seriously consider getting yourself another setup. There could be many reasons you can't, so I will go out and say you are best using Mono. 8lb for spinning gear is pretty versatile. Seaguar Senshi or Suffix Siege. Yozuri sinks = not good for floating applications Braid and trouble hooks don't get along Braid with a fluorocarbon leader = Buying two spools of line, when you could be saving that money for a new rod/reel setup which is needed since a medium powered rod can't cover all of your techniques well. Mono = topwater, jerkbaits and crankbaits well, will do the rest good enough without any serious conflictions. When mono was all that was available, people got by just fine.

I use fluorocarbon for every technique I can. Its advantages far outweigh anything braid has to offer. Fluorocarbon is expensive, that is the only downside. I don't buy the cheap stuff either. Braid and mono have their place for certain techniques. Primarily frogging and topwater, but fluorocarbon is used for everything else. Not having slack line sensitivity is a deal-breaker for me. That along with many other reasons.

Abrasion resistance can be measured. It is not an opinion that Fluorocarbon is more abrasion resistant than Braid, it is a fact. One that has been tested and proven many times.

Biggest thing I would do is to mount some reels you already own to get an idea of what weight reel balances the 7'3'' *** the best. Longer reels are sometimes tougher to balance and the Lew's TP is fairly light so that may be of some concern. Then again, I have not used this rod so I do not know. I have 7'5'' rods that balance well with a 7 ounce reel so you may be fine. Knowing the weight that best balances your rod is helpful anyways, that is why many say you should mount the possible reels on your rod to see which feels the best. Also, if you need a heavier reel and have decided on the Lew's. Don't be afraid to get the Lews Tournament (TS). The TP is very similar to the TS with the biggest and most noticeable difference being its weight. They both cast very similar. If you are using a medium powered rod, it sounds like you might be tossing lighter baits. From my experience a spool with lower line capacity fishes lighter baits much better than a larger spool. and you said you are open to suggestions. The Shimano Scorpion 1000 XT is a better reel than the STX and TP imho. It retails for $269 and can be had new for $199 for a limited time with this sale. http://www.japantackle.com/Shimano/Shimano_Scorpion_XT_1000.htm Quite frankly the Scorpion 1000 XT will be a much better caster of these lighter baits. Casting 3/16oz to 5/16oz will be largely more effective with the scorpion and result in higher efficiency and more accurate casts. Some other options would be to get a Daiwa Sol or a Daiwa Alphas. Good luck, do some comparing and weigh out the pros/cons of each reel and find out which qualities mean the most to you and go with the one that has the most pros in that area. Also note that it is not the number of bearings that matters it is the quality of these bearings that makes the biggest difference.

Exactly, if you fish in abrasive fishing conditions you will learn very quickly that braid has very poor resistance to abrasion. Some fluorocarbons are better than others in regards to abrasion resistance, Seaguar Red certainly is not the best, but it is much more abrasion resistant than powerpro. Regardless of line, you should always check its integrity every once in a while to make sure it does not need to be retied and that there is not any damage to it.

I own the TS1H and I would choose it over the BB version. The spool on it is just way to big for overall usage IMHO. I actually prefer a somewhat smaller spool. The line holding capacity is not the only effect of having a smaller spool, it also is a factor in casting lighter baits. The large spool on the BB version would not help in this area, and it seems that a 12lb/120yard diameter spool is a standard size spool so I would go that route. The multi-system breaking feature is nice and allows for more adjustments too. Personally, the spool size on the BB l is a deal breaker for me unless I would be tossing large crankbaits or swimbaits.. If that is not an issue for you then either is a decent choice.

Hooligan has tested and fished more gear than probably anyone on this site. Not only that, he is harder and extremely demanding on his equipment.He is cutting into frames because he wants to find the most durable, reliable and effective equipment out there. There is a reason why every contribution of his is in great detail and why he knows everything from the manufacturing processes/locations to the integrals of reels from every manufacturer. It may sound crazy to you, but if you depend on your equipment at such a high level, you are going to want to know everything about it and you are going to want to know that it is reliable and consistent across the board. If Shimano/Daiwa started to cheapen up and downgrade their equipment he would call them out on it and change his gear. It is one thing to fish a few reels and go off of subjective preference, but its another thing to break a large sample of reels down to their components, find the source of manufacture of their components and rigorously test the products to simulate the harshest of environments. Personally, I enjoy the contributions of his and his willingness to share this information to recreational fishermen like me and many others on this site. Search posts of his and you will find solid information across the board. The mockery of his contributions is uncalled for. Members should feel free to share their information and contribute without people making "humorous" jokes about their processes..

Seaguar Tatsu on just about everything. Sunline Shooter on one combo and Daiwa Samurai on my frogging outfit.

Thank you for your comments.The excellent memory and durability are factors that are important to me. I will be throwing some Lucky Craft and Megabass Ito's on this so I really need a line that is going to perform well. As far as price goes, I am not too concerned about that. From what I have read, it seems that some prefer the older Trilene XL over the newer version. This may not be true as I have only read a few threads. I am interested to hear that this line is both very manageable and has low stretch, those two characteristics usually do not go together. Have you found this line slightly more sensitive than other Monos? How is the knot strength for Senshi? Thank you for your comments, but I have YZH already and it just was not for me. I may use it if I dedicate a spinnerbait setup, but I feel that yozuri kind of sinks to a certain extent and that messes up the action of topwater. It does not completely screw it up, but I feel mono performs better in this area. Thanks iabass, your comments are always helpful. I am with you on the Fluorocarbon usage. The only thing holding me back is that I have to use it for topwater as well. I actually prefer my jerkbaits to remain suspended after the jerk, or stay where they are at without floating back up. I feel some jerkbaits are better than this than others and the line matters as well. A crankbait rod would really add to my arsenal, but I don't do much cranking and I am very heavily loaded in the bottom contact department. This will change, but for right now this is what I am stuck with. I have seen the excellent pricing on the BigGame mono, I somewhat worry about throwing $10-$25 baits out there with cheap line, not saying that it performs cheaply, but have you had any issues with it? I have been thoroughly impressed with Seaguar Products lately, I feel that much of it has to do with them controlling their entire manufacturing process and the consistencies that I have noticed between spools of line. With that said, I have experience using Trilene XL in the past and it has served me fine, but since then I have made some serious investments in my equipment and my skill and knowledge has gone up greatly as well. Is it possible that anyone could tell me the strengths and weaknesses of Trilene XL vs Senshi? Such as stretch, manageability, longevity, knot strength, etc? I appreciate everyone's comments thus far and I have enjoyed reading the different experiences of my fellow BR members. Thank you!

Ideally, i would have fluoro for cranks, but as of right now I am still in search for a good moving bait rod. So the rod I use for topwater and jerkbaits will also be what I tie my crankbaits on. Thank you for your help.