skeletor6

That's a good idea thanks. Thank you for the review that cleared up some of the comparison questions that I was curious about.

I am sorry to hear about your health problems. I truly hope fishing will bring back some of the joy you lost from not being able to do other activities. Braid works well for pulling in fish from thick weedy areas, but can be hard on your equipment. Since it does not stretch it may help you set the hook easier as well. You can put any line on it and you should replace the line since yours is ancient.. If you do choose braid the higher test. (50#, 65#) is supposed to be easier on equipment.

If nothing has changed, you will get a brand new reel. The warranty is great on these things. For the price they go for, often $25 or $30, one should not expect the components to equal those of much higher priced reels. Using my H20 mettle next to my Lews TS1H it's clear which one feels more solid and durable. Mine has yet to fail me and it's comforting to know that if it ever does I can send it in and get it replaced. Just send it in and get a new one.

I have not read that it was very informative. I,appreciate the reference to the article. Tatsu's price is surely shocking. I will be sure to run the idea of a leader by him to see what he thinks. Catching more fish is the ultimate goal. Spending more for a line that will not catch more fish is not what I wish to do. Therefore, I should spend the least that I can which will allow me to catch the greatest amount of fish. Sniper is what seems to be the choice in those regards. Hearing about Tatsu's superiority does lead one to question if it actually will result in catching a higher number of fish, but surely fishing line isn't the number one component that leads one to land fish. Which then leaves one to ponder the value that should be placed on said component. Thank you very much for your comments. What specific qualities did you find most admirable with tatsu, that the other fluoros you used lack in? Hooligan, your many posts alone are the only reason I've even considered purchasing such a line. The cost versus longevity argument you present does seem to be one that would apply well to my specific situation. I do not have many rods, actually only three. Only one have I decided to make of the highest quality components that I could reasonably afford. In my experience, I do not often change line. I changed to yozuri from mono only to be disappointed. I've always had problems with sensitivity and detecting bites and have never truly felt attached to my bait as to know exactly how I am presenting it. This likely has been because of my equipment. Until stumbling onto this forum I believed in many fallacies regarding fishing equipment which has lead to a recent splurge so I could find out exactly what it's like to fish with quality equipment. I've enjoyed reading others experiences and tactics which has lead me to improve and change how I fish and approach fishing in general. I am unaware as to which plays a greater role in sensitivity, that being, the rod or the line. Using a $17 rod and yozuri line has not allowed me to judge for myself. I solved the rod issue with help from you guys in purchasing a Powell max 703c. Hooligan, you mention that tatsu is superior in every way to other fluorocarbons. What do you believe is the most noticeable and advantageous quality and/or qualities that tatsu exhibits over other fluorocarbons using Sniper FC for comparative purposes. Thank you all for your time and generosity.

So its either sniper or tatsu. Would there be a huge difference in sensitivity, knot strength, memory, and casting if if I went with tatsu? If tatsu truly makes a big difference which will result in more fish being caught then I don't mind spending the extra money since it will probably last me a couple years. What do you guys think? Thanks

Is sniper FC better than seaguar invizx? Ill also be jigging and using a lot of plastics so Im not going to go with monofilament. Yozuri has done a good job for me too I just want something nice for my nicer rod.

So I just bought a new rod with help from you guys. It is a Powell Max 703c. I have a Lews TS1H baitcasting reel and I have been using yozuri 12# hybrid line. My biggest problem I have had is been with its sensitivity other than that it's been great. I plan on using yozuri on my other reels but want to upgrade my line on my beloved combo. I've read through many of threads of fluorocarbon vs braid and the waters I fish here in Michigan are primarily clear except for Mona lake which is stained. The other two lakes I fish are clear. So that is leaning me towards fluorocarbon I suppose. I've read hooligan's post where he raves about Tatsu's superiority and it really makes it seem like everything else fails in comparison. If I choose fluorocarbon is tatsu really worth it? There are many pike in my waters and they tend to prey on my lures even while fishing for bass. My buddy used braid for the first time and was really impressed with its sensitivity and thought it would hold up better against the pike although while fishing a pike broke off his line. Nonetheless, my worries of choosing braid are that it will slow down the fall rate of weightless plastics and during times of slack line I will not be able to detect bites. Also, this combo has cost me 5 times as much as the others and i do notbwant braid digging into my spool or damaging my rod. After all the my worries about choosing braid I remain open and objective in choosing it if it's the best choice. As far as using braid with a leader I jjust am not open to the idea I want to completely spool with one line on this rod and reel. To finalize, I only have three rods and reels. The one I am talking about is my go to primarily used all around combo that I will throw anything on it besides top water for which I designate another combo of mine. All suggestions, comments, experiences, and advice would be greatly appreciated in lieu of me finalizing my first baitcasting combo that I can be proud of. Thank you. Skel

What kind of bead are you guys using? Would the Eco pro bead from TW work or is that too large? Also, where I fish the bass reach a max of 3 lbs. what kind of creature baits would you recommend for that? Thanks a-jay that's a really clever idea and will help tremendously at this weedy lake I fish. Ps. What creature bait is that pictured above by bwell?

Perfect. Well it looks like ill be placing another order at tackle warehouse for the 703c. Thank you all for the help! I just need to get some new line since I do not like the sensitivity and memory of yozuri 12# I bought.

On tackle warehouse the it says the powell Max 704c is heavy not MH. I see the 703c is considered MH. Which one should I get? I see you guys are recommending MH but saying I should get the 704c.

Thank you Mr. Clary that was an excellent write up and I enjoyed reading it. With there being so many options under 100 and a clear favorite if I spend a little more then it appears I should step up. What size and action should I get of the powell Max that fits my previously mentioned desires?

Wow. There seems to be a ton of options. There seems to be no clear cut favorite. Is there a Lear cut favorite if the budget is under $150? Lol

I've caught plenty pike on wacky rigged senkos. You have to be really quick to feel the bite otherwise you end up losing your hook and senko. Actually it seems that the pike are almost taking over a once plentiful bass lake of mine that I fish at which sucks. And marty is exactly right, pike will go after just about anything, Make sure, after you catch a pike that you check your line. If it is weakened in any way, cut down and retie.

Thank you for putting things into perspective and narrowing down my selections. So which one should I go with?.... 1.) Abu Veritas $80 shipped 2.)Shimano Compre 7' MH XFAST Casting Rod $80 shipped (it would also be used) 3.) Powell Diesel $70 shipped 4.) Daiwa T-Series 7' MH $75 Shipped I can get them all for around the same price....which one should I go with? Which one would offer me the best sensitivity and will likely cast the furthest. I do not know how to choose rods and I do not have a chance to try each one out to see how they feel. So which is the best out of those 4? Thank you!

Where can I find this for $59? EDIT:Nevermind I found where. It seems that the Veritas, Jadewood, and Shimano Sellus are what I should be looking at. What are the differences between these three, that would make one better than the other? Should any of these be considered? I can buy any or all 6 of these locally and can probably haggle the price a little bit. 1. Quantum superlite 6'6 medium heavy casting rod. 1/4-3/4 8-17lbs..retail 199.99 price 70.00 like new 2. Quantum KVD Tour red crankbait casting rod 7'0 medium. 1/4-1/2.. retail 159.99 price 80.00 like new 3. Quantum energy 7'0 medium casting rod.1/4-3/4. retail 100.00 price 50.00 like new 4. Quantum energy 6'6 medium casting crankbait rod. 1/4-1. retail 100.00 50.oo price like new 5. Quantum kvd signature rod 7'0 casting all fiberglass crankbait rod. retail 79.00 price 30.00 good condition 6. Kistler custom rod 7'0 heavy casting magnesium jig/from rod. 1/4-11/2.. retail 159.99 price 90.00 like new.

Okay, I know what you guys are thinking. There are many threads asking this very same question and I should look at those to find my answer. I have read through those threads and found out many things. 1) Not one rod can do everything. Some are good for flipping and pitching, while others are good for cranking. 2) Quality Rods are not Cheap! 3) Most importantly, its pathetic that I have my brand new Lew's TS1H on a $17 Shakespeare Excursion EXC661MH So I am in dire need of a casting rod to pair with my Lew's. Reading through the many threads I will name some that I seen mentioned often to people who are asking this question. Previously Recommended Rods 1) St.Croix Mojo Bass (find one used and it will be around $100) 2) Berkley Lightning Rod (some argue that this is a decent enough rod and if you aren't spending more you mind as well save up and this will due for now) 3) Abu Vendetta or Veritas (Especially the Veritas, this one I've seen pointed out the most) 4) Cabela's Prodigy (There is not a cabela's close to me though) 5) Powell Diesel 6) ???????????????? Background info and my equipment and what I want to use the rod for I have three baitcasters, an old 2000 model Quantum PF 400Cx that has no spool tensioner anymore so it is always in free spool. A H2O Express Mettle and the previously mentioned Lew's TS1H. I only have two rods at the moment and they both are the same one listed earlier, that being the Shakespeare Excursion EXC661MH. So I need a third rod and I figure since I have two 6'6 rods it is time to step up the length to at least 7 foot. Also, from reading it seems that a rod around 7 feet seems to be the most versatile. Also, I must buy this rod either online, at Gander Mountain or at Walmart......these are the only places around me that I have reasonable access to. So what I want most in the rod that I am buying is versatility and sensitivity (I want to feel the terrain I'm fishing and the bites). The Shakespeare's that I am using now have terrible feel to them and just feel cheap when I use them, but that is to be expected with how much I paid. Right now, the Lew's is my pride and Joy and I want to throw this the most. I will most likely dedicate the H2O Mettle for cranking and spinnerbaits and have the my Lew's handle everything else. RIght now I am using Trilene XL 8lb Mono for my Quantum and on my H2O Mettle and Lew's I've been using yo-zuri hybrid 12#. It has done a good job for me so far, but I am seriously considering switching to something else, just because of some of the reviews I've read about Seaguar Fluorocarbon and 2 of the 3 lakes I fish are very clear. To summarize, I am looking for a Casting Rod under $100. I am going to use this rod for fishing just about everything, but mainly for soft plastics, jigs, and swimbaits. (Types of lures where sensitivity is key). Any and all comments, suggestions, and advice from personal experience are welcomed. I want to know what you guys think of my situation and what you would do if it were you and you had to make this decision. Also, if you name a certain type of rod, could you please let me know your reasoning behind its selection. You've guys have helped me fill my tackle box up with goodies, pick out a sweet reel, and the only thing left is this rod! Thank you. -Skel

Just wanted to thank you guys. I made a $100 purchase today buying mostly everything suggested and also A-Jay's rig that I think will be great at offering a different type of presentation besides regular Texas rigged plastics with a weight. It's interesting because I've been having success working a Yamamoto double tail hula grub with a half ounce shakey head and A-Jays rig should be even better with that double tail grub utilizing a jig skirt instead of yamamatos hula skirt. Also, in addition I figured I'd give Matt Allen's California swim jig with the EZ shad swim baits a shot. Would that swim bait also be a good trailer for a Northstar flip and swim? I assumed it would and bought 1 DJ and 4 Northstar's. Also it seems a lot of the plastics that were recommended can be used as trailers or in multiple ways which is nice. Overall I feel I have a huge selection of baits I can throw now and feel that I am able to fish more areas of the lakes I fish with confidence. Once again, thank you to everyone who chimed in and helped me spend my money wisely and took the time to explain rigs and presentations to me.

What am I thinking!? In all honesty I never heard of a fluke til thes thread. Are they best used t-rigged or with a shaky head?

If you google search forums for reviews on the mettle, you will definitely be swayed to buy one. Everyone seems to be raving about them and for good reason. They are very smooth reels, built solid and cast a mile. Plus, their warranty on it is top notch. The only drawback is that on fathers day they sold for $30 and occasionally go for $25 on sale which just is frustrating knowing they can be had for less if you're willing to wait.

Thank you very much capt bob! You've helped me so much throughout this whole process. I do not have the opportunity to fish with advanced anglers like you and many others on the forum. I am going to try to start rocking free spool so I can improve my technique. My biggest problem is when on long crankbaits casts (free spool) the spool spins too fast and the line unravels. Should I try to make an overall longer and slower motion with a little wrist snap at the end. I've watched the video posted recently here about pitching and flipping. But what do you guys focus on when making long casts with heavier and lighter baits(thumb pressure on the spool/ wrist action/ general casting motion)I am assuming there is more potential to cast further with the spool left free. That alone is incredible because I'm already out casting everyone I fish with using this new Lews. On another thought, I thought my old 2000 model quantum with a broken tension shim and knob was doomed since it left the spool free. Now it sounds like I can use it again! Thanks to everyone. I'm glad to be a part of this community. Everyone has gone above and beyond to help me I am very grateful.

What size shakey head do you use? I was thinking about the 1/4 but was not sure. Also, would 3/8 jigs be too large for lakes that at best yield 3lb bass?

Yeah your settings have been working best for me. Thankyou! I was unaware that anyone ever kept their spool free. I can see the advantage when pitching but not for long whipping casts which I usually end up making.

I'm looking to Improve my talents with baitcasting. Is it general consensus to loosen up the tension knob to make it spin freely and learn to throw from there? Earlier recommendations from two others in this same thread recommended 2 on 2 off centrifugal brakes and a magnet setting around 4 while setting the tension knob where the bait falls slowly. By all means I'm looking to improve. Would loosening up the tension knob nearly free be the way the "most talented baitcasters" practice? It's ridiculously easy to set the lews up where it's impossible to cast without backlash and still have incredible casting distance for any who want to claim that lews has issues with that. Watching Kevin van dam cast, it appears as though his motion is quicker and more wrist whip than mine. (looking aT spinnerbait and lipless crank lessons). Would a pro such as himself leave the spool free like you guys mention? On a side note I have an old quantum with the spool tension shim and knob broke. So essentially it has no tension on the spool. It seems near impossible to cast beyond 15 yards without backlash. But then again there's no centrifugal braking system to slow down the spool early. I also use a full spool of line. The same quantum I could easily cast when it had maybe 40 yards left.

Everywhere I've read and in the manual it states to set the tension knob so the lure falls slowly and when it hits the ground the spool can make one complete revolution. Using 3 centrifugal brakes for my weightless plastics helps me stay consistent I guess it's personal preference.

I have one and love it. The centrifugal breaks are nice and it casts a mile. Plus it's really solid built and has a lifetime warranty I believe.