skeletor6

Definitely go with an XF action. Slower actions load up more and move the bait too far. XF you have the option for quicker shorter movement as it loads up quicker and moves the bait less. I would look for a M/XF rod. Many recommend an AVS68MXF or CUSX68M for this price range and purpose. Buy during the upcoming sales.

It's been covered many times before. 7ft MH/F seems to be what most use for all-around purposes. It won't cover every technique, but is somewhere in the middle. However, length has a lot to do with preference. I have some buddies that prefer 6'6'' and some over 7. I lean on the longer side, but the technique being used does change the length of the required rod.

Im going to have to go with Shimano especially since they've acquired Loomis. You got the cumaras, cumulus, nrx anx glx. What's not to like?

Curious as to what reels of yours that it has outlasted in the $200 range?

Tried out casting a 1oz jig on my cucx711mh and I walked off 85 yards. Its the reaction cranking model. Not sure why you're not getting your desired distance. Perhaps the power and action slows it down. It was on a curado 200e7 supertuned and abec 9 hybrids. #1 thing for distance seems to be length of the rod imho. And a extra fast taper that loaded properly gives that extra kick. Although not not ideal for deep cranking.

Tatsu

I like suffix. It is a good braid. Using it makes me happy. It is good to be happy. Camo makes me feel invisible. I like invisible. Bass like me invisible. They are afraid to see me.

You guys all are completely missing the point of fluorocarbon and stretch. It is its density that makes it a superior line in many aspects. Wind resistance, abrasion resistance, line bellying, visibility, Sensitivity and the biggest being slack-line sensitivity. Almost every sensitivity dependent technique incorporates slack line at some point in the process. Its by far the most sensitive slack line there is. People focus far too much on stretch and not on density. Tatsu or fc sniper for me. I don't see how people could not enjoy these lines besides cost.

I learned from a friend to stay away. He referred to it as "going to the dark side". He has gone there, and I don't think he's coming back....

Bill, I am all for extra setups if you can manage. I could see the med/lt lews helping with lighter dropshots if that's your thing. Don't have the rod, but M/L rods certainly have their place.

In my example, I was talking about the CUSX68M....the Gen 1 cumara. Those were roughly $230 retail at one point. Is your comparison in regards to the new model Cumara's, or the Gen 1's? Interested to see how this comparison shakes out. Also, OP the way to go here is used. I've seen both Gen 1 Cumara's and the AVS68MXF used for $140 or less. Probably the best price:performance you will get. Both seem to get great reviews all around. The GLX series I mentioned was if you wanted to step up. If you can find one, used GLX 852BSR's are in the $200-$250 range.

Remember, I have not personally fished these rods. It is just a question that I have researched and was told by someone who I highly trust who owns/has owned every rod I mentioned. I was told it was very close between the avid and cumara, the cumara being slightly faster and slightly more sensitive. From a personal experience, just handling the rods, I would imagine there is a significant increase in performance going from a mojo to an avid. Haven't fished them, so pure speculation. I want to make that clear. There are many co-owners of avids and mojos on this site who can shed light on that much better.

So $100 per reel? What model loomis rods? Still need a little more information from you if you expect accurate advice.

Discussed this option with many with well informed individuals. With the #1 factor being performance, what I was told was that AVS68MXF < CUSX68M < GLXBSR852 & GLX 852s This is not first hand information. Notes on the 702sf. If it is anything like the Dobyns Extreme version as far as power, it will be a little whimpy for the job. The 742sf seems to be the choice for said applications.

I think you're going to have to sacrifice a bit. Weightless plastic rods aren't usually synonymous with cranking rods especially medium diving cranks. And weightless plastics is a special technique in what I do. There are some good suggestions, but perhaps go cheap and get a cheap crank/topwater rod and a decent weightless plastic rod. Just my .02 anyways if I had to do this I would be looking at a medium to medium heavy fast action rod with a soft tip that loads little weight well.

Ive personally heard of and experienced multiple instances of shimano taking care of folks who broke rods on their behalf. Dig a couple weeks you'll find a gentlemen who who received a brand new glx for his old bsr852. But your right. They dont do it.Furthermore its policy they replace cumaras no longer in stock with the new red versions that are well above a retail price. Nontheless shimanos fall back plan of having to mail it in is at least equivalent to st croixs. That is if your b&m won't honor the exchange. I still say having to mail it on your dime is shite compared to an otc exchange.

I am guessing you have not used their services. Feel free to speculate, but that simply is not true.

So you have to pay and wait a week because their rod broke, even if it is admittedly their fault? Seems easier to just go to a store and exchange. You get your rod the same day and there isn't the cost and hassle of shipping. Shipping rods for me is always over $20

I agree with snookie here. Having to pay and go through the hassle of shipping a rod downgrades the warranty. Prepaid shipping labels would help, but overall, the over the counter lifetime Exchange warranties trump any process where one had to pack a rod, pay to ship a rod, wait for the rod to ship, wait for them to process it, wait for it to ship back. Its alot easier to walk into your BM store and say this broke and swap it for a new one. How long did the entire process take? How much did it cost you?

RW posts a combo of three that you can search for that he says covers everything. My buddy uses a 6'6'' casting rod for everything. I, sincerely, do not think you can cover every technique with 1 rod/reel. The finesse stuff is tough with a casting reel, it requires a very nice rod/reel combo that can load and cast the light stuff well. Disregarding that, you could probably grab a 7'MH/F rod with a spinning or casting reel (your preference) and it will be able to cover a lot. I might go spinning for this scenario just so you can cast the super light stuff and it'll be cheaper, than being said a MH/F rod won't load it well, but you can still get it out there without the risk of backlash. But I do not like cranking or frogging with spinning gear. You're going to sacrifice somewhere.

Did not know this either. Where's captain bob?

Vote # 1 = Pitzen Vote # 2 = Improved Clinch

Do you want to be a legend, or a champion? I would seriously consider mixing it up and getting the Dobyns. I did not enjoy my LTB casting rod, found it unbalanced and very strict on what weight it would load well. This was an XF model, so this would be less of an issue with a Fast action LTB. Dobyns are known for how well they balance and are more JDM style in their actions and appearance. I enjoy fishing different makes and models of rods. Half the fun is the experience. I have to agree, get the 734. Posted a while back, spinnerbait weights are typically heavier than what is stated. A 3/8oz spinnerbait might be closer to a half ounce or so. Add a trailer to it and you are really pressing that upper weight range. I can say a 1/2oz spinnerbait with a 4''' lake fork hyperworm trailer requires me to use a Heavy powered Fast action rod (844 IMX)

^^^^ Is right, the amount of cover is subjective. In most cases, 35# is plenty, however, I prefer the diameter of most 50# braid. It is easier to manage, less wind knots and line dig. Remember your biggest issue with braid strength is not the straight power rating of the line, it is shock resistance and abrasion resistance.

The main priorities here are 1.) you get the reel dry and free of water and 2.) Serviced, preferably by a professional 1.) I would take the reel apart as much as possible and place it in a vacuum oven @ 0.1atm and @ 37.78 degrees celsius for 1 hour. If you do not have this equipment available then you can use chemicals that do not harm the metal that will displace water. Various hydrocarbon solvents will do the trick. However, this method is aggressive and the wrong solvent could dissolve plastics and some essential oils which lubricate the reel and, also, protect the metal from the natural oxidation process. Optional methods would be to use a blow dryer. If a female is handy. It is about time you borrow something of theirs, and that's what they're for right? 2.) Mike @ DVT is a board sponsor and gets recommended often for reel maintenance, upgrades and servicing. In all honesty, if it were me my thoughts would be to get the reel in a situation where no more harm would be caused. This would require disassembling the reel and drying it out. A blow dryer is more than sufficient. Just make sure it is completely dry, at all places. Oil will displace water, if you feel you can't dry some places, or there are some vulnerable places, give it some standard oil like the one that shimano provides with it reels or something similar. The professional reel mechanic will clean out any unnecessary places you oiled. But the most important thing you need to do is get it to a professional reel mechanic as fast as possible.