vtbassin

Yes I am very happy with my SCIII ;D So much so that I have 2 more in the starting gate.

Thanks for the kind words ReelMech! ;D As you can see I like the left handed reels. So I wrapped to the left. The rod with the Curado balances about 1/2 inch in front of the reel seat. It feels very light in my hand. And yes black thread and Alconite guides ;D ;D My kids have left the nest ;D ;D I do get my wife in the boat with me now and then although she prefers the kayak. If the spinning rod feels as good as this one I may have a hard time getting her to let go of it Oh well that will give me a reason for number 3 :) Tight Lines!!

picture #2 ;D

Well I finally finished my first rod ;D Thanks for the help ReelMech and Flechero! ;D A spinning rod is next on the list. I can't wait to hook that first fish. 8-)

Here is how I ended up The spacing is like I listed above. I ended up moving the bumper 1/4 inch closer to the butt and rotating to about 110 degrees. I increased the size of the first 4 guides (not the bumper) so from the butt I have CLNAG12, CLNAG7 (bumper), CLNAG8 (@180), CLAG8, CLAG7, and 6s to the tip. At first I had all 6s after the 180 guide. After I changed to the 8 and 7 the line dropped away from the rod blank a little and then the 180 guide started picking up some of the heavy load. ;D I haven't started wrapping yet I got busy with other Sunday afternoon things. There always seems to be a to do list if you know what I mean : Next week I should get them wrapped and finished. Thanks again for all the helpful hints I think the rod is going to turn out great! ;D

That is an interesting question. Have to have means different things to everyone. I am building my first rod. I started out rebuilding a rod into a no forgrip spiral wrap. It came out fairly good. I have some rod wrapping stands that I made out of scrap wood and some felt in the "V" from the kids art supplies. I made a thread tension device with a long wood screw a couple of plastic washers and a compression spring. I use a piece of 1/4" threaded rod to hold cork rings that are being glued up. (i put some wax on the threads to keep the glue from sticking to the rod) I shape the cork by clamping the rod in my drill press and using a sanding block to shape it. I bought a couple of reamers and a piloted drill bit to enlarge the cork center hole to fit the rod. I also purchased a 6 RPM rod turner (about $50) for applying finish and drying. I work on an old bench in the basement. I had to get a heat lamp to keep my handles warm while I was gluing them to the blank. The epoxy doesn't like 60 degree room temp. So all told I do not have a lot of money invested in start up equipment. I am trying to build rods that will be excellent fishing tools. I don't think I am going to be in the custom rod art work business. Some of the rods these guys build should be used for display only they are so beautiful. I can't imagine fishing with one. But as with most hobbies I am sure I will somehow find the need for more equipment as time goes on. ;D My wife always says it is not the initial purchase that blows the budget. It is the accessories that come later. 8-) This is a lot of fun and I can't wait to land the first fish on "my" rod! ;D

Thanks ReelMech I have been playing with spacing and guide size I ended up with this spacing from the tip, 3 1/2, 7 1/4, 11 3/4, 16 1/4, 21, 25 3/4, 30 1/2, 36, 41 1/2, 47 This is similar to what you suggested and seems to be working. I changed the stripper back to the CLNAG 12 the bumper is a 7 and the first at 180 is an 8. Under a load everyone is carring some of the load. Flechero I think you are 100% right I am loading this road more than it will ever be when I have a fish on. I also rotated the bumper a little to about 100 degrees or maybe 110 and moved it just a little towards the butt. As the rod loads the line crossover point (between the 0degree and 180 degree guide) appears to move back towards the butt. Rather than move the bumper back too much I moved it down a few degrees. I was trying to keep the line pushing straight/centered into the blank. I am going to look at it again in the morning and if I still like it I will wrap it and finish it. Thanks for the helpful hints from both of you ;D

ReelMech, Thanks for the tips. I have read about setting up the rod like you would for a guides on top set up. I wonder about that because if I were going to use guides on top I think I would use a little taller guide. These very small and low frame fugis would need more guides on top to keep the line from touching the bank. My lack of experience is showing here I think. :-? I think I am closer now with the smaller guides in the transition area. I will play with the spacing a little more and then wrap it, finish it and fish it. ;D Hopefully I will catch a huge bass to put it to the test!

Hi Flechero Here are some more details. St Croix SC3 MH moderate action 6' 6" Butt guide is 20" from the reel face ( i have moved that back and forth an inch or so in each direction) Guide #2 is 10" from the butt with the bumper in the middle at 5". Guide #3 is 7" from guide #2 I have moved this between 5 and 9 inches. I started out with CLNAG 12, 8 (bumper) 10 then CLAG 8 and 6s to the top. I had this all set to apply finish but ended up not quite satisfied with the transition under heavy load. (I don't know what I am thinking a 5 lb fish up here is big but I do get into a pike or 2 every year that go over 10 lbs) I cut off the bottom 3 guides amd moved them around some and got to the point where I figured good enough. I put the rod away for a week while on vaction (no finish yet) When I got back I was ready to go at it again. I changed the butt guides to a CLNAG 10, 7 (bumper) 8 then CLAG 7 and 6s to the tip. This was quite a bit better I then changed the CLAG 7 to a 6 and that is a little better. So that is where I am CLNAG 10, 7 ,8 and CLAG 6s to the tip. I am thinking I may be at the point where it is as good as it is going to be but I thought I would ask here to see if I am making some rookie mistake. The guides are tied on with pieces of rubberband for testing. My problem is I can't leave it alone after I wrap them. I didn't finish any of the wraps yet so removing the ones I did isn't that big a deal. Thanks for the feedback ;D

I am setting up a spiral wrapped casting rod and have a question. I did a static test and with a heavy load (this is a moderate action rod that bends all the way to the handle) the line makes a straight path from the top guide through the 90 degree guide then through the center of the next guide and finally touches the 3rd guide. I hope i am explaining this OK. My problem is there is about 17 inches between guides that the line touches under these conditions. Is this a problem or am I just over thinking it?? :-? I have had all the guides wrapped on twice and cut them off to try different sizes and spacing it doesn't make much difference. I am getting plenty of wrapping practice. The ice is finally melting up here and I am going to want to go fishing soon. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Justtrying, That handle looks good. What better way to spen some recovery time than working on fishing equipment. Good luck on your recovery. Hopefully you will be able to fish some before you need to go back to work! ;D

I would hate to limit myself to only one type. I like both Smallies and Largemouth! ;D A big pike now and then is fun too! :

ReelMech, That rod is a work of art!! I am sure whoever bought it will be trying to dicide if they want to fish with it or just display it. Thanks again for all the tips. I was test casting mine and all the tracks in the snow remind me of frog fishing on a thick matt. Although not as nice looking as your art work I think it is going to cast and fish well. First day of spring tomorrow 8-)

Flechero, You are right on about the bug. I have the components for two spinning rods waiting to be started ;D after I finish this spinnerbait rod.

I need to work on resizing skills

ReelMech, Here is my first handle I like the way it came out. Thanks for the tips. I am on to guide prep now. (I know I am slow : if I was getting paid by the hour for this rod it would be very expensive ;D) That didn't work I will try again later.

Thanks Whittler, That looks fairly straight forward. I have just started trying rod building but who knows cranks may be next!

Whittler, If you could post a picture of your drying wheel I would love to see it. I am trying to picture how the baits attach and am not quite getting it. Thanks!

Thanks ReelMech! After I get through this once I am thinking the next one will go smoother. I appreciate the answers to the rookie questions. I will find a dowel and give it a go. Thanks

ReelMech, When you glue the FlexCoat arbors in place (in the reel seat) do you just coat them with epoxy and push them in? Or do you try to spin them some how to get a more even coat of epoxy around the arbor? Do you add epoxy in the reel seat at the same time? Thanks!

Reelmech, I did find the spine and mark it first thing. I have been reading on the RB board that it does not make that much if any difference in the rods performance and building on the blank's curve may be better. The blank I have is straight so I will use the spine. Do you think it helps performance??

Thanks Reelmech! I think I will slowly ream a little more to get my pieces a little closer to the finished location. This is a great step by step pictorial. It has answered some questions and clearified "how to" for me. Thanks again!

Reelmech, Another rookie question for you. When reaming your cork handles how tight is the finished grip/handle/reelseat?? I have my first rod just about ready for glue. I can slide the grips to within about 2 inches of where they need to be and they are snug. I have read other places that the glue will help slide the grip the remaining distance. Your (very helpful ) pictures look like your cork is reamed to fit the finished location. I am thinking I should ream a little more. Your thoughts?? Thanks for sharing!!