Neil McCauley

I grew up using those "hot spots" maps and other paper contour maps. Man, what a joke compared to what we have now from compiling everyone's sonar data. There was structure in places I didn't even know about and actual reasons some is better than others. I wouldn't see how much the geology and the entire ecosystem matters without electronics. Same thing with sonar. So when I go and learn about those things now and do better because of it, you see how electronics do a lot more than give immediate info.

If you have a variety of size waters nearby a budget kayak vs budget canoe is hugely different...Cheap kayaks essentially limit you to ponds, a canoe the same price you can eventually build on- trolling motors, batteries, sonar, etc- and do bigger things if things get stale. You'd have to buy a whole new kayak to do that. And ever notice how whenever people replace old fishing kayaks with new better ones, they look and function more and more like canoes? (except for $1000s more). Why not just start with one? The same $400 canoe can keep you busy many years. "Kayak?"

Did it mess up your lure? My interest faded a little when I googled them and saw the teeth...

That thing is huge. Sounds like an awesome time.

I saw a few for the first time ever last weekend and I am now obsessed with landing one. Anyone caught them before? Any tips?

that's ma boat

Where are you geographically and as far as climate? If the pond freezes over winterkill can be a big issue if it's not just the right depth. Same with temperature and oxygen levels... If there are no fish in there now, there is probably a reason. A relative of mine excavated a 10' deep 1/3 acre pond on his farm a few years ago and in the first summer green sunfish had naturally appeared, migrated in as fish eggs stuck to birds' legs most likely. The point is, it might be futile to put bass in if the pond isn't the right size.

Definitely worth checking out if you have a boat. PM if you need any pointers.

Knew Crestliner would be in this thread waxing philosophical about blade jigs. I am going to give this a real try now that it's getting towards summer. How deep are you able to jig with these? I've tried drop shotting on LG in 150-200 fow for summer lakers...didn't go well.

Welcome, I'm a topwater fan also from Lake George region. Cheers.

I use nothing but 8 lb fluoro on my spinning outfits. But only because water is crystal clear. You will cast further with braid and that's probably helpful from the bank.

There are lakes in Northeast PA? Worth the drive up here to Lake George, or Great Sacandaga. They're hitting anything that gets near the water. ~3 hrs from Scranton.

The boat is a no brainer if there's great fishing options nearby, like giant Browns in early spring on Lake Michigan. That would be very dangerous in a kayak. It's hard to see how limited the kayak is now when you just want something that floats, but you wouldn't regret the boat. The downside of the boat is the responsibilities and logistics of it...installing a tow hitch and brake lighting, registration, inspections, launch schedules and fees, etc.

Somehow bought 5 wt Rio Gold WF floating line for my 9' 6wt Redington rod. Is this going to be a big problem casting?

Anyone have experiences with these (boat-related or otherwise)? Looking for a new set that's reliable/durable, for my canoe on car roof. My first set of nylon "WorkForce" ones (like pictured) lasted 7 years without issue... until one day leaving the lake and getting them from the trunk and the hook loop stitching of one just completely gave out. Kind of wary of them since then..

Yes that was LG. Snow was very sparse, a stray pile here or there. Probably still a bit on mountain tops though.

Reel them up under sonar and you can see about where they were running. Here's a Rapala Dive-to-20 I was messing with trolling for lake trout. Surprised me it was at almost 40 fow.

Went out this past weekend. Water was only 35*F and skimmed over in areas at dawn. Caught a small lake trout, slow day but warm calm day and great to be back out.

I've gone through a few Tifosi Tyrant 2.0s. They're meant for cycling so they're light and stay put really well. Also deal with body heat, sweat etc. The decreased tint lets me use them in lower light conditions which really is when I want polarization the most. Also don't really get any tan lines from them since the lenses only cover your possible field of vision and don't touch the face.

It does seem like the tournament rule thing is where it gets a bad name, if it has one. But I don't think it's banned because it's "easy" or "cheating." It just doesn't sell lures/equipment/boats. It's a $16 billion/year industry and tournament rules are a big factor. Keeping more people casting means more types of baits, lines, rod setups, etc. Even bass boats are a product of it...no other species has its own special boat. No other species is best fished for from a boat that essentially is as much raised platform space with 360 degrees of casting that can be attached to a 300hp motor and zipped around from spot to spot.

I usually get asked 3-4 times a season on my lake, so there's not much choice. One time though I was backpacking 5-6 mi to a pond and had my rod/reel with me for the hell of it. Ran into a DEC officer hiking the opposite direction. Asked where I was going and I stupidly said to fish XYZ Pond. Asked for my fishing license which I didn't have. Since I wasn't fishing but clearly planning to do so 5 miles up the trail he made me stash my rod off behind a tree to pick up on my way back. Came close to not finding where I left it later. Strange experience.

Finally started buying line in bulk (Seaguar Invizx 8lb fluoro). Is there any trick to spooling up line from them? I've heard line twist can be more of an issue.

I've thought about that. Currently have a nice 55lb thrust 12v though an the 24v is $400. Should probably invest in one at some point.

Lake George should be ice free any day now. I'm hoping to be out next Sunday.

Bump....any more opinions on this? I am running a 55lb thrust 12v TM on a canoe, and typically use 3 27 series batteries up front. It's a lot of weight but I need the battery duration/distance....12+ hrs at least.. I am thinking about investing in an Optima blue top 31 series, but apparently the AH is only 55 and reserve capacity 120? These are $250 batteries, is it not what I am looking for? Alternative is just to keep buying Everstart deep cycle batteries from walmart and having 150 lbs of weight in front of my canoe. I can't decide...