Hi-Powered Red Neck

Well gang I'm back to work again. This time home was worse than my last. I think Mother nature hates me. I had big plans to load up the Raider and hit Lake Juniper. Lots of flooded timber and giant Florida bass. Last spring the bite there was hot. I caught 3 fish over 8, 1 just under 10, really close to my pb and stumpload of 3 to 5's. Now don't get that twisted that wasn't one day. I fished there a bunch last year. I really enjoy fishing timber but my bass boat hates it. I can't wait to put the Raider to work out there. I did manage to fish around my pond a bit. I caught several but nothing more than 2 pounds. For that matter the first 4 I caught probably didn't make 2 pounds combined. But hey, time spent with the rod bent. No mods to the Raider this time home either. I'm still going to cut down the 7" seat riser to around 5" and see how that works out. I had planes to get a troll king, and still do. I had to buy a new TV instead, Mother nature decided to send a lightning bolt that fried the old one. I'm telling you she's upset with me for something. lol

Man you stole that boat!!! You paid 29 dollars more than I did for a used 2010 model! I wouldn't worry to much about that "hole". Looks to me like its just in the rub rail. It is covering the seam where the two halves are stapled together. To my knowledge there is no seal between them. However, I could be wrong about that. Plus it sounds like Pelican send you a new rub rail. To put your mind at ease, I'll give you an example. I drilled a scupper hole in the aft deck of my pelican. When I'm (270lbs) standing at the back with a group 29 battery the water comes just flush with the floor. So if you get that rub rail in the water you've got bigger problems. Congrats on a great bargain!!! You're really going to enjoy it. I know I love mine.

I would recommend you buy a used one if you can find one. I finally found a used one for $300. After several years of watching craigslist, I found my on Facebook market place. Mine is a 2010 thats lived most it's life in the Florida sun. It still looks new. With the exception of a few scratches from use. It was completely unmodified and had been registered and titled. The title is the big thing if your buying a used one. They can be a pain to register if it's never been done. If your in a hurry you might want to buy a new one. I looked at a couple new ones. I didn't care for the Sun Dolphin to Me it did not seem as well made as the Pond Prowler 2. I never got a chance to look at a new Pelican Bass Raider. Only one I saw was the one I bought. It's got several things that I don't care for. The 2 biggest are easy to fix. The lack of a drain in the floor is ridiculous, and the Ribbed floor is horrible. Both are very easy to modify. This thread if chocked full of some very elaborate mods.

Noob, I'm running a 36" shaft motor. Keep in mind running the motor up front it has to be low enough so it doesn't hit the hull. If you look at my set up you'll see the control head is still fairly high. The handle on my motor tilts, so I raise it up a click or two when I'm standing. When seated I level it and I can still side arm cast over the top of it. I think another 6" taller it might be a problem. Now it's always possible to lower it deeper in the water but that also has its draw backs. For me being 6'2" the 36" with the tilt handle is the way to go. Standing or seated it's within easy reach and out of the way. Hope that answers your question.

I personally recommend you move the motor you have now to the front. Just lull the screw holding the head to the shaft turn and replace the screw. I have a 32lb thrust motor that works pretty good up front. Believe it or not you motor will pull the boat better than it pushes it. I've also added a big foot switch. While fishing I leave my setting on 1 or two and make micro adjustments with the foot switch. If you feel the boat moving you've given it to much input. These little boats take a lot of practice to maneuver. Wind and current as well as what lure your fishing all play a huge factor in boat control or the lack of it. A deep diving crank bait will pull these things around. I normally sit down to fish by positioning my self aft of center line with the group 29 battery in the back as well. This sinks the stern a bit giving the boat more bite. This keeps me from having to add a rudder. I also have an extension on my TM handle that lets me reach it from the seat. I used 2 shop vac tubes for the extension handle they fit the handle snug enough to switch power settings. If I have to turn farther than I can reach I sling it out then I use an eyelet on my rod to pull it back. I know some guys don't like to sit and fish. In my bass boat I stand all day. In my Pelican I sit I can do everything sitting I can do standing, to include flipping and pitching. Skipping lures under dock took a shotload of frustration and practice to figure out again. Try adding a riser to your seat. I added a 7" that is pretty close to standing height. I didn't care for the amount of instability it added but I do like the added height. I'm planning to cut 2 inches out of it and weld it back together. I think that will lower the center of gravity back down to a more comfortable level. As far as the troll king if need be I'll be the first to review it. Because I plan on that being the next addition to my Pelican 10E. I've got some pictures of my set up minus the 7" seat riser I added that right before I left for work I only got a couple hours to try it out.

Hello again folks. Well I'm back at work wishin' I was fishin'. I work 2 week hitches so I'm at work for 2 weeks and home for 2 as well. I did a little fishing while I was home. Not nearly as much as I would have liked to but mother nature didn't want to cooperate. I'm not a hard core fish in any weather kinda guy. I stopped tournament fishing a long time ago. I've already covered the mods I did to the floor adding padding and carpet, added a Scotty mount for the transducer, As well as adding a big foot switch. The last thing I did the day before I had to come back to work was add a 7" extension to my seat. I'm between 6'2" and 6'4 depending on what convenience store I'm walking out of and I weigh around 270. I'm not sure I like that much added height. I fished it for several hours, to me it feels like I've taken away some of the stability of the craft. I think moving the center of gravity that high could be a bad idea. At least for a guy my size. You younger skinnier guys can get away with it no problem. For me it wasn't a scary situation but stability wise it's not far from standing. Yes, the boat is stable enough to stand and fish and I do. However, It just feels a bit on the unstable side. It's night and day difference form the stock seating height. It does make it much easier to turn around in the boat as well as fish off the side with my feet on the rail. But to me thats not a good trade off. I'm wanting to feel stable and still turn around easily. I'm thinking about cutting 2 inches out of it next time I'm home. I figure 2 inches would drop the center of gravity down a bit and still allow me to turn around. For me cutting and welding the pedestal is easy, I have the tools. I'll keep you posted on how it effects the stability. I'm also kicking around the idea of a Troll King foot control for my trolling motor. It's way cheaper than a cable steer trolling motor and can be used on any hand control motor. I'm going to upgrade to a 55lb sooner or later and have been keeping my eye on craigslist and Facebook market place. I'll find one at a good price. I'm used to a foot control motor and believe the troll king would be a great upgrade. Looks well made and they have replacement parts available. Anybody using one? Your review would be appreciate.

Here’s my setup for the backyard pond. Only difference from when I travel is the addition on a throw cushion, anchor(10 lb mushroom), and life vest. Notice the “shop vac” tube motor handle extension. I had one on hand already. I just bought the second. $6.47 a piece at Lowe’s. The fit the handle of my tm well enough to stay attached and allow me to change speeds.

I highly recommend the Bigfoot switch. I’ve been using them for 25 years. I will say their not as good as they used to be. The first one I had was on my first “bass” fishing set up. It lasted well over 5 years till I sold the boat. The control you gain by installing it is hard to beat, with out going to a foot control motor. I normally leave my TM on 1 or 2 depending on the wind and battery state. Just tap the switch, instant power. I’m a big guy, 270ish. I run my motor up front, battery in back, and I sit slightly aft of center. This puts the stern deeper so I don’t need a rudder. I use 2 shop vac extension tubes to extend the motor handle. Works great and way cheaper than a $35 extension handle!

I used a Scotty mount bracket to mount the transducer. I used the existing bolt holding the transom plate. You can also see the scupper hole I added. I used a 3/4” thru hull fitting and 5200 to seal it. This allows me to leave the boat in the water. For the floor I used 3/8” ply wood, I glued down anti-fatigue mat from Harbor freight, trimmed the edges with a razor blade, then covered it with outdoor carpet from Lowe’s. I mounted the Garmin bracket to the floor, and added a Bigfoot Switch to control the 32ld trolling motor mounted up front.

I had the same problem. My solution was a scrap piece of 3/8" ply wood. I cut it the same size as the forward transom plate. I removed the screws and used them to secure the plywood. The Trolling motor clamp opens just wide enough to go over it. And it really bites into the wood. No more trolling motor slippage. When I have to replace the plywood, I'm thinking about a 1/4" on each side. My TM shaft rubs on the rub rail in the fully down position. Its not that bad but sometimes I have to push the locking dogs into place after I've had the motor raised. I normally leave the boat in the water unless I'm pond hopping. I can only fish my little 5 acre pond so much. I work 14 on and 14 off. So when I'm home the raider lives in my truck during the week. I fish while the wife's at work and the boy is in school. When I get home I'll post pics of my build. I just got it for an early Christmas present. My 17' Glasstream already hates it. So much easier to load up and go. I've fished 6 ponds that I've been looking at for years now. Of course out of the six I'd as one was worth a return trip. I'm Chomping at the bit I get home the 23rd. This time home I'm finalizing the floor. I'm thinking of the harbor freight anti fatigue mat over plywood with some gray carpet covering the lot.

I like it even better now! Outstanding Idea. What did you use for the shaft? PVC or did a shaft come with the bracket?

Thats a new style trolling motor bracket! Must have been a Motor Guide to give up so soon. Just Kidding, LOL I've been waiting patiently (18years) for my 32lb Minn Kota to die. I really do like the looks of that. I was thinking about buying a new 55lb for the stern and adding a rudder to that. I've noticed if I sit farther back I don't have as many problems with it wandering. I'm in the 270 - 280 lb range, so I can make it pop a wheelie. lol.

Hello Folks, FNG from Crestview Fl here. I grew up in Tournament Bass Fishing with my Father. He was alway driven to be the best. I guess thats a good quality to have, but It kinda burnt me out on fishing for a long time. The long 2-3 day pre-fishing ritual spending 10 - 12 hours on the water was a bit much for me. So now I'm a 2-4 hour lets go get breakfast or lunch kinda fisherman. Don't get me wrong I still enjoy it. I ran a charter boat out of Destin for a few years. Now I'm strictly recreational. I own an Old Glasstream Bass Boat thats kinda small, but it still looks good and does the job. I also have a 24 Laguna SeaRay. Yeah I can hear y'all now a "SeaRay isn't a fishing boat". Yes it is, It's the wretched child of the SeaRay line with outboards and everything. lol But my latest obsession is small water fishing. I recently picked up a nice used, unmodified Pelican Bass Raider 10e. I have a small pond out back, and LOTS of small ponds all over the area. Elgin Air Force base has lots of electric only lakes that are only accessible with a 4 wheel drive. Black Water State forest has several as well. Hunting for information on the Bass Raider is how I found this sight. I'm looking forward to spring time fishing lake Juniper. It's a flooded timber lake that holds some really nice fish for those who dare to launch their boats. My little 17' does pretty well, but I think the Raider will shine in lakes like that. I'm tempted to take it down the Shoal river. With a little vehicle pre staging I can Launch the boat at the Hwy 90 Bridge on the North end of town Have my wife take my truck to the hwy 85 landing on the south end of town. Fishing my way down river. Its been years since I've made the trip. I won't put my bass boat in that river. My tiller steer river boat is long gone. Anyway nice to be here, lots of good info on this sight.

Ok gang here's my question. Has anyone taken their Raider or similar style boat in swift current river? I live in Florida so most the rivers in my area are sand bottom. I have the Shoal river near my house. It's a pretty swift very windee river. Theres 2 places to launch on opposite ends of town. As the crow flies its maybe five miles as the river twists its a 4 to 5 hour journey. I can stage the wife's car at the lower end, launch at the upper end and have her take my truck to the lower landing. I've made the trip several times. Although it's been many years ago in a 13' fiberglass river boat. I wouldn't dream of doing it in my 17' Bass boat. My Pelican on the other hand....That opens a new can of worms. I have a 32lb Minn Kota mounted on the front. I'm seriously considering getting a 55 for the back using it for a rudder and extra power for longer transits. I shouldn't need to worry about battery power the river will do most of the work. Plus its a pretty new 29 series battery I would be using the motor to basically slow my progress and keep outta the snags. I'm sure its stable enough. Not having a gas motor back up is my issue, I guess.

Several Ideas in this thread. This is what page 113. I've been reading it for several days now. Lots of good information here. Just start reading. Enjoy.

Hello again. Lets see I last left off at, strike one one with depth finder location. I promise I'll post pictures of my build when I get off the ship. However, I did not take any pictures of the Garmin mounted to the trolling motor. It was pretty slick but, as I mentioned before the electrical interference was horrible. So from there I decided to mount the transducer to the back of the hull. Not wanting to put any screw holes below the water line, I decided I needed to install a mounting block. The back of the pontoons are rounder so simply gorilla glueing a piece of wood to the back would be a bit more complicated. No problem, I broke out the grinder. I cut a 6" pieces of 5/4 deck board that I had on hand and started sanding it to fit. I used a 36 grit flapper wheel on an angle grinder. A spindle sander would have been ideal but.... I don't have one. It took a bit of time but I managed fit the block fairly well to the shape of the hull. Next a liberal amount of Gorilla glue and I slapped it on the hull. I used Electrical tape to secure it in place till the glue dried. Duct tape would have probably been better, but I had electrical tape on hand. Once it was dry I simply screwed the bracket to the block and mounted the transducer, leaving the hinge bolt loose enough for the transducer to ratchet freely if it hits something. Transducer mounted, Check. I mounted the unit on the plywood flood and simply ran the wires along the edge of the floor securing them with insulated staples. As I mentioned this floor is the test piece. Once I fish it a few times I'll move things around till I like it. Then I'll worry about wire routing thru and under the floor. Another short coming I noticed after leaving the boat out in the rain was the lack of scuppers. Easy fix, road trip to West Marine. I picked up a 3/4" thru hull fitting, 3/4" bait well plug and a Bigfoot switch for the trolling motor. Back home I used a 1" hole saw to cut the hole for the thru hull fitting. I cut it in the molded recessed area in the stern. Ran a bead of 5200 around the fitting and stabbed it in the hole. Next a light bead around the mounting nut and tightened it as much as I could by hand, then one more full turn with pliers. The hull is hollow so I didn't want to over tighten. Once the 5200 sets up its permanent. I bought a plug for the drain just in case water comes in with me in the boat. Im happy to report it does not. I also picked up a cheap battery box from WalMart. I mounted the tie down strap brackets to the plywood in the stern with short brass screws. I mentioned before that I robbed this battery from my bass boat. Its a group 29 battery so its pretty stout as far as weight goes. When sitting empty in the water the battery keeps the stern just a touch lower this lets the new scupper work its magic. No more water in the boat. With out the expense of a bilge pump, automatic float switch, piping ect. The Bigfoot switch was an easy install. I mounted it to the floor with short brass screws and ran the wires along the edge same as the depth finder. Cut and spliced into the negative wire going to the trolling motor plug. I did need to add a short piece, I simply matched the gauge that came stock with the boat. I think it's 10 gauge but I could be mistaken. So far thats all I've done. Once I'm happy with mounting locations I'll proceed with phase two. I will start with a new piece of plywood that I have on hand. Mainly because my first piece soaked overnight in rain water. I may possibly cover it with carpet or the anti fatigue mat from Harbor freight. Oh speaking of Harbor Freight I also built a simple dolly for the boat. But thats for another day. Stay Tuned.

Hello folks I'm new to this group. Like a lot of you, I have a Bass raider 10E. I had been searching for a used one for a number of years. I've gone and looked at a couple that were beat to death and of different makes. I found the one I've got now on Craigslist shortly before Christmas. My wife was nice enough to buy it for me as an early Christmas present. She talked the guy down to $300 and we loaded in my truck. Did I mention all this took place in the rain? I'd post some pics but I'm at work and will be till the 23rd. When I got it, The boat was unmodified. It came with the old style non foldable seats, paddle, mushroom anchor, and most importantly a title. I had a Minn Kota 32lb thrust Trolling motor tucked away in the garage. Let the games begin. Now to be open I have a 17' Bass boat, 25' offshore boat, and I'm a Chief engineer on a 300' offshore supply vessel. You could say boats are my second language. First day home I robbed a battery out of the bass boat, replaced one of the seats with a folding seat I had on the shelf secured the TM to the bow and launched the Raider in my backyard pond. The maiden voyage went fine but I quickly noticed the TM wouldn't clamp tight enough to stay secure, I needed a deck and a bigfoot button. Not a problem. To Lowes I went, I picked up a 3/8" piece of ply wood and had them rip in two pieces. 20" for the "test" Floor and the remainder for general purpose. I also picked up a Trolling motor plug and socket to replace the stock unit. That was a simple install. To remedy the clamping issue I was having I cut a small piece of the left over plywood to the exact size as the front motor mount on the boat. I removed the two screw on the inside and used them to secure the wood. The trolling motor jaws open just wide enough to fit and they bite really well on the wood. Problem solved. I had to go back to work I returned home the day after Christmas. We did our family Christmas the next morning. I got a Garmin 4(something) combo unit. Still not wanting to put holes in the hull I tried mounting the transducer to the tm foot and I mounted the unit on top of the trolling motor, robbing power from the motor. Basically making the Garmin and the motor one neat package. Works great in theory. Not so much in practice. Sitting still it works perfectly, turn on the motor not so good. Ok strike one. Wanting to be able to easily remove the motor the transducer needed to be moved as well. Theres more to the story but this is becoming a book. Stay tuned. To be continued.