DEPS_250

Obviously, it does not take a rocket scientist to know that your inches per turn will increase if you upgrade to a longer reel handle. The part I am confused on...How much is the increase usually? Is the increase minimal/barely noticeable? I want to upgrade my reel with a longer handle in order to get a somewhat noticeable speed increase. I want to upgrade the 90mm handle on a 34" IPT Daiwa Tatula to a 105mm handle. That would be a 15mm/0.60in increase in handle length. How many inches per turn would my reel end up being with the handle upgrade? I was hoping I could get close to a 35-36" IPT by going with the 105mm handle. Obviously its going to depend on a lot of variables like the length of the handle, the diameter of the spool, how much line you have left at the end of your cast and your line's diameter. But, I was just curious as to what the numbers might be like and if someone in here has tested it already and can give me some ball park numbers/estimates off the top of their head.

I am looking for a cheap and relatively inexpensive copolymer fishing line that is thin, strong and has little stretch. P-Line PF Original is the only one I can find that ticks all of the right boxes and claims that it is strong, thin and has little stretch. Out of all three variables, I am mostly interested/after the thin diameters. I am a power fisherman and mostly fish reaction style baits. Therefore, I like fishing with the thinnest line I can get away with in order to get the most action out of my baits. PF original is the only copolymer fishing line I can find that states very thin diameters. PF original diameters are very close to or the same as more expensive JDM/USDM copolymer fishing lines. Most copolymer fishing lines are either too expensive (i.e. Sunline/Maxima/Gamma) or are not thin enough with their stated line diameters (i.e. Yozuri Hybrid/CXX/Izorline). I know Yozuri Hybrid has a lot of good reviews and has a cult following/status in this forum. If Yozuri Hybrid had thinner line diameters, there would be no contest and I would just buy the Yozuri Hybrid all day and call it good. Does anyone have any reviews or experiences with this fishing line? Is it indeed thin, strong and little stretch? I am mostly interested in the 8, 10, 12 and 15lb tests. On the other hand, I am only interested in 'trying out' the PF original. I fish mostly braid to leader anyways and therefore was hoping to try out a leaders worth/sample in order to see if I will like it or not. I can't find PF original anywhere in my local tackle shops with in a 10 mile radius. Tackle Warehouse is my only option. TW only carries huge 500-1000yd spools. I don't need that much line in order to test a line and see if it will work for my style of fishing or not. Therefore, I don't want to spend the 40 bucks at TW in order to try all 4 tests and than have a bad experience and feel like I wasted my money. I also don't want to have to deal with the guilt of the line not living up to my expectations and than having extra bulk fishing line hanging around that I will probably never use. I might just have to post a WTB ad in the fishing flea market in hopes of snagging some used spools from a fellow Bassresource member. On the other hand, I also know that this line is very old (debuted close to 20 years ago), is hard to find and very unpopular. Therefore, finding some used spools might be an issue.

300 Curado K and Tranx 400 are beefier but you have to understand that there is a trade off when going to a bigger reel and these reels are also... 1. Heavier 2. Bigger/Bulkier I have a lot of experience fishing swimbaits. 300-400 sized reels are 'over kill' for 1-3oz glide baits/swimbaits. A 300-400 sized reel is going to 'wear' you out after throwing 1-3oz sized swimbaits all day on the water. The difference between a 200 and 300 sized reel in weight and size is night and day. The 300 contributes to a lot of fatigue and stress on your hands and arms vs a smaller reel like a 200. I would much rather fish a 200 sized reel over a 300 sized reel for 1-3oz swimbaits any day of the week. For the Swimbait Newbies: This is how I would break down reel class sizes and swimbait lure weights... 150-200 size _ 1-3oz 250-300 size _ 3-7oz 350-400 size _ 7+oz One caveat...I fish braid to leader for a lot of my swimbaits so I can get more line capacity and therefore a little more versatility. Because braid is thinner, I can pack more line on to the spool. Therefore, I can fish larger baits with a smaller reel and not have to worry about spooling the whole reel on a cast. This leaves me with enough line left over on the spool in order to keep my inches per turn high and more consistent on the retrieve after a long bomb cast. Having a high and consistent inches per turn throughout the length of the retrieve/cast widens/enlarges the strike zone. Widening and enlarging the strike zone greatly increases the likelihood of getting more fish to bite. It also makes for more effective/positive hooksets and increases your hook to land ratio. Hope these tips help.

I am a hardcore swimbait fishermen. My speculations and opinions are going to be biased towards a swimbait fishermens point of view. With that said, I was actually looking at getting a Curado 150 MGL or 200K. 1-3oz glide baits and multi-jointed swimbaits are my bread and butter and although my current reel gets the job done, I was always constantly on the search for a new swimbait reel. The Shimano Curado 200M seems to be marketed towards swimbait fishermen who need a reel that can fish as light as a 1/2oz all the way up to 3 maybe 3.5oz. I think Shimano did the right thing by basically offering us swimbait fisherman a Curado that is the perfect marriage of the 150 MGL and 200K. 200K lacked the beefiness/gears and versatility, while the 150 MGL lacked the line capacity. The 200M bridges the gap and offers us swimbait fishermen a more versatile reel that has the right line capacity and that can fish lighter baits in a pinch also, while having beefier gears and a larger more robust frame/body to help with fishing large swimbaits. The addition of an MGL spool definitely makes the reel that much more versatile in my opinion. Although, I definitely would of liked to see 6 brake pads/arms instead of 4 on the SVS infinity brake system. I am so excited to find out that Shimano finally decided to upgrade the Curado 200K and release a new reel that ticks all of the right boxes for us swimbait fishermen. My search for the perfect 1-3oz glide bait/swimbait reel is finally over. I think the Curado 200M are going to be a home run for Shimano and should sell like hotcakes. I can't wait to get the 8.5:1 with the 37 inches per turn for some glide bait fishing!

If you don't do any deep cranking and are mainly sticking to squarebill crankbaits, lipless crankbaits and topwaters...Than any 7.0:1-7.5:1 gear ratio reel would work fine. Some guys prefer a 8.0:1 or higher for topwaters/stick baits. I find the higher gear ratio reels to be a little hard to get the right 1/4 turn of the reel handle rhythm/cadence in order to make stick baits walk the dog correctly. I like a 7.0:1 to a 7.5:1 for topwaters. Any higher and it throws my cadence off. Some guys prefer a 6.0:1 or slower for crankbaits. Just like you, I don't do any 'deep cranking' and the only crankbaits I fish are squarebills and lipless crankbaits. A 7.0:1-7.5:1 gear ratio reel is totally fine for squarebills and lipless crankbaits even though it might not be labeled as the best/correct gear ratio on paper by crankbait 'purists'. I find the slower gear ratio reels to be a little too slow and actually hinder my ability to get good hooksets in fish around heavy cover in shallow water or on open water fish at the end of a very long cast. The faster gear ratio helps take up more line quickly and therefore helps with getting good hooksets on fish that are running straight at you. I am a minimalist fishermen. I don't like to have a lot of tackle and setups. I always try and find as many uses as I can with the least amount of setups/gear. Just like you, I wanted a rod and reel combo that can pull double duty and be able to cover both topwaters and crankbaits. That way, I can save a lot more money and space. I am currently using a 7.3:1 Daiwa Tatula for squarebill crankbaits, lipless crankbaits and topwaters/walk the dog stick baits. Perfect gear ratio for all of my cranking and topwater needs. No issues yet. Bomb proof, casts very far with very few backlashes and smooth as butter on the retrieve. Hope this helps.

On a side note, does anyone know how much a weightless 5in senko weighs? How much does a standard fluke weigh when rigged weightless? Forgot to mention that I will also be using the reel for weightless texas rigged plastics also like creatures, flukes and senkos. Weightless standard sized fluke with 8-10lb line is about as finesse/light as I will go for weightless plastics.

Your right. I kind of figured the rod and line would probably be the biggest variables as to how light and far I can throw light baits. Therefore the reel is probably the least of my concerns/problems. 3/16oz is not all that light and isn't even that close to BFS weight range. As long as I make sure to get a rod that is light enough in action and has the perfect amount of tip, I would probably be fine with almost any current reel that is on the market. With the speed and rate that the fishing industries technology/manufacturing has seen over the last few years on a whole, I would bet any current reel in the $100 range from a reputable manufacturer would probably do just fine.

Can you give me a link or the brand name of the shallow aftermarket spools your putting in the Tatula 100?

Just read all the reviews on Tackle Warehouse for the Shimano SLX MGL 70. WOW! Can't believe all the positive and great reviews for this reel. Seems like it can cast anything from heavy/barely BFS to light/finesse weights/baits very well. Great price too if I can find one on sale or used.

I hate spinning gear. Does anyone know of a non-BFS reel around $200 or less that can handle light line/baits/techniques with 6-10lb test? I really don't want to buy a dedicated BFS reel in order to fish some lighter lines and baits/techniques either. Even though there are baitcasters dedicated for BFS/light lines now a days, I would still much rather use a 'standard/run of the mill' baitcaster that has the capabilities of being able to fish light line/bait/techniques in a pinch if need be. That way, I can still use the reel on other rods for other baits and have it perform 'double duty' for more versatility and save me some money. Basically, I need a non-BFS reel that can handle free rigs, texas rigs, football jigs and drop shot rigs down to about 3/16oz. 3/16oz is the lightest I am planning to fish when it comes to these techniques. I am probably not going to go any lighter. I am a Daiwa guy and I have heard that the Tatulas with the SV boost spools are very good at throwing lighter lines and baits. How light can a Tatula with the SV boost spool cast light baits on 6-10 lb test? Would the 2022 Daiwa Tatula SV TW 70 be a good candidate? The 2022 Daiwa Tatula SV TW 70 costs 230 bucks! That is way too expensive and out of my budget! Are there any non-BFS reels from other manufacturers that would also make a good choice as far as fishing light line techniques/baits? Shimano? Lews? Abu? I have also heard of guys buying aftermarket BFS spools for non-BFS reels in order to get more versatility and double duty performance. Anyone know of a older and cheaper reel that is a very good candidate for finding an aftermarket BFS spool for some light line baits/techniques? Older Tatulas? Since I am looking for the most versatility and double duty, I think I am going to have to go with the aftermarket BFS spool option/route.

Since the fish usually position/face themselves into the wind/current waiting for bait/food to funnel their way, they say you should always fish/cast into the wind and retrieve your bait with the current/wind. By having your bait move in this direction, it makes the bait look like what the fish are used to seeing real fish do and therefore achieves the most natural presentation. If you were to fish with the wind, you would be bringing your bait behind the fish and directing your bait at the fish's tail/back instead of directing the bait head on into the fish's mouth/front or sides. They say this could spook/scare the fish instead and therefore decrease bites. On the other hand, every lake/water/situation is different and conditions are always changing all the time. Therefore, positioning yourself into the correct angle in order to get the right cast into the wind/current isn't always going to plan out the way you want and sometimes you are forced to cast with the wind and retrieve your bait against the wind/current. In the case where sometimes the conditions and situations are not ideal and do not line you up for the right presentation/cast that you want, would most people agree that in these situations it is still 'worth it' to cast with the wind and retrieve your bait against the wind/current even though it might not be the most ideal or the most natural presentation? I mean, 'you gotta do what you gotta do' right?

They say its bad to fish the same spots/history since conditions are always changing and fish move all the time. Therefore the fish are not always going to be there again and even if they are there, it might require a different bait or presentation. On the other hand, I have also heard that high percentage areas always hold fish year round and its always a good practice to go back to the same spots throughout the day even hour and fish some history in order to coax a few more bites. I am a bank angler, therefore I ALWAYS fish history since I know where all the high percentage/hot spots are. Therefore, I don't understand how I should not fish history, when those spots are the ones that I am only able to fish. I am all CONFUSED! When should you fish history and when should you not?

Does anyone in here have any experience with the Abu Garcia Jordan Lee 7'9" Heavy Moderate Fast 15-25lb 1-4oz rod? Can the rod handle 3oz comfortably? Is the rod soft/parabolic enough for a braid to leader setup? I am looking for a rod to throw 1-3oz glide baits, jerk baits and topwaters with braid to leader. I am definitely not going to go over 3oz. Ima Glide Fluke at 2.8oz is the heaviest bait I am planning to throw.

Does Tackle Warehouse also do a Labor Day sale every year? I know they do July 4th every year and is currently going on right now. Even though it just started and is not over yet, I think I am going to have to skip the July 4th sale and wait on some baits I was hoping to get a decent discount on. I was hoping TW also does a Labor Day sale also and than hopefully I would be able to pick up the baits I want later in September. If TW does do a Labor Day sale, is it usually 15-20% like the July 4th one that is going on right now?

Anyone in here have any experience with the Bass Pro Shops XPS power replacement handles? Does anyone know if they will fit Daiwa reels also? I am wanting to buy one for my Daiwa Tatula 150. I have heard that Bass Pro Shop reels use the same OEM factory as Abu Garcia and Lews. I have also heard that a lot of Abu and Lews handles are interchangeable with Daiwa since they all use the same 8x5mm main shaft. Since the Bass Pro Shops reels are made in the same factory as Abu and Lews, I am thinking this handle should be 8x5mm also and should fit on a Daiwa reel correct? Description says 4-1/2". That comes out to 114mm. Does anyone know or can confirm if the handle really is 114mm in length? Also, does anyone know if stock Daiwa knobs will fit over the knob shafts? The knobs on this handle look pretty cheap and ugly and I was hoping I can put my Daiwa Tatula knobs on them instead.

What are the benefits to sharpening hooks? I rarely sharpen hooks. I rarely see other guys sharpen hooks. Once a treble hook gets dull, I just switch it out for a new one. If a single hook bait like a spinnerbait or jig gets dull, I just trash it and get a new one. I mean, you can get a 25 pack of VMC treble hooks for around 13 bucks online. That only comes out to about 50 cents a hook. I don't really see the benefits of hook sharpening unless your a really 'frugal/penny pincher' fisherman that is fishing on a 'really, really, really' tight budget and is not willing to replace treble hooks or replace baits. The only time where I can see sharpening hooks having a major benefit/payoff, would be with expensive 25+ dollar soft plastic jig hook style swimbaits like a Huddleston where the hook is permanent and embedded into the body and therefore replacing the hook is not feasible/possible. 25+ dollars is a lot of money to be just throwing away a bait and buying a new one just because the hook is dull. In this case, sharpen the hook, fish the bait until it is totally trash/no longer usable and save your money instead. Other than that, I don't really see any other benefits to sharpening hooks unless the bait is really expensive and has a permanent single/jig hook or the bait is really special. I have a couple huddleston swimbaits that are starting to dull. Debating whether I should sharpen the hooks or cut the hook off completely and replace it with a treble hook mod instead.

Does anyone in here know if the 7'9" Heavy Moderate 13 Fishing Defy Black Gen 2 crankbait rod can handle up to 3oz lures without feeling too stressed? I need a rod for fishing larger jerkbaits, topwaters and glide baits. 7in Ima Glide Fluke at 2.8oz is the heaviest I am planning to throw. Nothing over 3oz for sure. I am currently using a heavy swimbait rod with a moderate fast action. I also like fishing braid to a leader. The swimbait rod definitely feels too fast and stiff along with the braid. That combination of the braid and the heavy swimbait rod is not forgiving enough and is not giving my glide baits and jerkbaits the action that I want. On the other hand, I love braid too much and I am not willing to change my setup to straight fluoro/mono. Therefore, I am looking to upgrade to a rod that has a soft and forgiving/parabolic action that will bend more and give my treble hook baits more freedom of movement. Does anyone know of a heavy or extra heavy crankbait rod that can handle 3oz baits and is around $100?

Should you tie leader knots the day of fishing so its as fresh as possible for the most strength/effectiveness? I used to tie leader knots in the morning right before I went out fishing. But lately I have been feeling a little lazy in the mornings and I now tie my leader knots ahead of time the night before a planned trip. There has even been a couple times where I tied a leader and did not get to fish it a few days later but still fished it anyways since I felt a little lazy. Therefore it got me thinking, how old is too old for a leader knot or any knot for that matter, to lose its effectiveness/100% strength and therefore could cause a potential failure? I should be good as long as its not a few days and is less than 24 hours right? A few days definitely feels a little too old. Knots on baits should definitely be as fresh as possible right?

That was my initial assessment when I came across this reel handle doing a google search and I kind of figured it would not be worth it. I should probably just man up and get the Gomexus instead since its reputable, high quality, already proven and looks way better. Thanks.

Has anyone in here ever used the SpoolSpeed.com 110mm carbon reel handle? I want to get this handle for a Daiwa Tatula 150. Will it fit Daiwa? Fine print says it will fit Daiwa but just want to make sure before pulling the trigger. Is the quality pretty good? Says its made in Korea so I am hoping it should be pretty durable and some what decent quality. Will stock Daiwa knobs fit over the knob shaft? I don't like the EVA knobs that come on the handle and I want to use the stock Tatula 150 knobs. I was originally planning on upgrading to Gomexus handles since that is what I see a lot of people upgrading their reels with. On the other hand, this spoolspeed.com handle is a little bit cheaper.

Found it. Thanks.

Where did you find/get the numbers? Website? Pictures? Trying to see if I can find them on my own.

You sir are the MAN! Going to have to give this a try! Saved me a ton of headaches and money! Thanks.

I don't want to buy a dedicated line counter. They look like a waste of money and the reviews are not that good with a lot of them claiming that their not at all that accurate. Anyone have a line counter hack? Trying to figure out how to get exactly 200 ft of braided line into a reel. I guess I could just go the old fashioned route and measure out line by hand with a measuring tape. I don't really want to do this either and was hoping someone in here has a cool hack for measuring out an exact length of line without too much effort/tools.

Thank you sir, you are the man!