Hi, hope this is the right place to post this quesiton..

I broke the tip on my current favorite rod.  I broke it 2" from the end, it's an 7' IM7 blank if that means anything.  I removed the tip from the piece that broke off (fuji concept guide) and it seems in good condition.   I've read about the process for replacing the tip on the end of the rod with stick glue (flexcoat I think).  I can get the glue stick from bass pro.  

My question, and I can't find the answer,  is do I need to do the thread wrapping below the tip or is this just decoration?  I think the threads hold the other guides on so are an intergral part of the build but the tip, I don't think, uses thread to hold it on.  Also, once the thread is on, and that's if I do need it, is there any other coating besides the color protector to make it hard and keep it there??

Thanks for your help.

Theresamarie1,

The wrap at the base of the tip top is just decorative. But if you decide to wrap and coat it then it will need a coat of thread finish

Good Luck..

Tight Wraps All!!  

Thanks Reelmech for the very quick answer.   In searching for answers I saw your rod building site.. some very nice stuff!  

I have some 3 new St. Croix Premier rods coming but this IM7 rod is my current favorite and will still have a place in my arsenal after bringing the new rods in and extracting some old junk.

Theresamarie1,

The wrap at the base of the tip top is just decorative. But if you decide to wrap and coat it then it will need a coat of thread finish

Good Luck..

Tight Wraps All!!  

Theresamarie1,

Thanks ...Yea I have been building for awhile now, but not as often as I had been, reel service keeps me very busy.

I would like to add, if the tip broke around the 2" mark, and the new tip being replaced is still in the 3" mark from the tip guide (first guide for the tip top) the rod will be ok. But if the tip top comes closer to the tip guide 1" or so you might consider removing the tip guide and equal spacing it between the tip top and 2nd guide...

Tight Wraps !!!  

Thanks again!  The distance from the base of the tip to the next tip is 3" exactly so it looks like I'm ok.

BTW, is there any reason I couldn't use epoxy (5 or 20 minute kind) to glue the tip on or does that present a problem.

Theresamarie1,

Thanks ...Yea I have been building for awhile now, but not as often as I had been, reel service keeps me very busy.

I would like to add, if the tip broke around the 2" mark, and the new tip being replaced is still in the 3" mark from the tip guide (first guide for the tip top) the rod will be ok. But if the tip top comes closer to the tip guide 1" or so you might consider removing the tip guide and equal spacing it between the tip top and 2nd guide...

Tight Wraps !!!  

Theresamarie1,

BTW, is there any reason I couldn't use epoxy (5 or 20 minute kind) to glue the tip on or does that present a problem.

The problem with the use of 5 min epoxies is that it takes a lot of heat (upwards of 300+°) to soften it if you ever have to remove the tip again (i e if you knock the insert out), a rod blank will turn to mush at 300°. If you are using the Flexcoat tip top hot glue stick that stuff softens at 200° and is easily done with a lighter and the tip comes off easier.

Tight Wraps!!

Thanks Reelmech!

I found a local spot for the tip cement (the solid stick you melt).  Thanks for all of your expert input into the forum as well.  You are most generous with your information considering this is a business for you.

As an aside, do you sell parts?  I have a browning A350 agressor from around 10 years ago and wanted to look at replacing some bearings.  Do you do this or sell the bearings?

Theresamarie1,

BTW, is there any reason I couldn't use epoxy (5 or 20 minute kind) to glue the tip on or does that present a problem.

The problem with the use of 5 min epoxies is that it takes a lot of heat (upwards of 300+°) to soften it if you ever have to remove the tip again (i e if you knock the insert out), a rod blank will turn to mush at 300°. If you are using the Flexcoat tip top hot glue stick that stuff softens at 200° and is easily done with a lighter and the tip comes off easier.

Tight Wraps!!

Theresamarie1,

I don't work on any Browning® reels.

According to the schematic that I have on the A350 it was discontinued back in Oct.1996.

I doubt that you would be able to find any parts for the reel..

The bearing part numbers are as follows:

#SW017-01 (spool shaft bearing)

#TW058-01 (topcrank shaft bearing)

The Anti-Reverse Clutch is #QW063-01, the bearing pack Clutch Sleeve is #QW052-01

The cast control cap has a bushing, the left side plate has a bushing, the bottom of the crank shaft has a bushing.

This all come from a schematic that Zebco® has from when they were a licensee. You might try them the part numbers look like theirs.....

Hope this helps some.

Tight Lines!!!