Good evening,

A quick question regarding guide size, as this is only my second build and will be the first where I compile all the components to my wants

An experienced rod builder told me, for a casting rod, to go size 12 (butt), followed by a #10, then #8, and finishing off the rod with five #6's, while using a #6 tip top. Is this a good scheme?

If it helps, here are the specifics for the rod:

--Blank: Rainshadow 6'8" m/xf RX7 ISB802.75

--Guides: Fuji Concept Alconite 12/10/8/6/6/6/6/6

--Reel seat: Fuji ECSM

--Handle material: EVA split-grip, no foregrip

--Intended technique for rod: T-rig/light jigs

--Reel used: Chronarch Mg51

I was not planning on wrapping spiral or using micros unless strongly suggested to do so (again, my first TRUE rod build).

Any thoughts, suggestions, or concerns would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for the help.

Jason

Hey, that should definitely work.  My last few builds close to what you have I have used:

CLNAG-12J

CLNAG-10J

CLNAG-8J

CUNAG-7J

CLAG-6J to the tip 3-5

with a 6 ring in the tip top.  

I go single foot with the CU & CLA's toward the tip (forhan loop wrapped) to keep the weight down for sensitivity - especially for worm and jig rods.

What you have will work.  Especially if an experienced person you know gave you this.  If you might be going back to them for more advice might want to just follow their lead until you are comfortable on your own  .  Best thing is to lay it out, take it outside and throw it.

I'll let others talk to micro guides and spiral wraps as I haven't used them.

Good luck and let's see some pictures.

Eddie

Seeing as that reel is a low profile, you could save a little weight by skipping the 12. Start with a 10 and 8 then go single foot 6s to the tip. I might even try to start with the 8 or go straight 6s. The rod I just finished has an old super free Curado feeding into a 6 straight to 4Js. No noticable loss of casting distance using 15 lb P-Line XXX.

There are no two blanks that are going to be completely identical. You have the opportunity to build a rod that will be custom in every way. Order an extra size 10 guide, an extra 8, and a few extra 6s and try different guide set ups. Make test casts using each guide setup with different weights within the blanks range. Take measurements. Move the butt guide a little closer, or a little further, test cast again. Find which setup is best and go with it. Be sure to static test the blank to ensure the guides are correctly placed for stress distribution.

Anytime you can save a weight and have a lighter rod, you will end up with a more sensitive rod. Most importantly, make it your rod.

Eric

Gotta say a big thanks for the quick replies...much apprecitated!

Jason

All my casting rods, even the 7'6 flippin sticks go

5

4

3's to the tip

 I've been experimenting with single vs double foot butt guides, and the single seems to works just as well as the double.

My spinning rods have been using three transition guides, sizes based on path measurements, with 3m's running to the tip.

 I've had several people fishing these sets over the past couple of months, with positive results.

I created a "traditional" cranking stick the other day that used all micros (3's) placed traditionally on top.  While I still prefer a spiral wrap, this rod was remarkably light.

Something that has been mentioned to me by many builders is to take a look at the size of the level wind on your reel.  That's a small hole.  I have been using 10's and smaller on everything for a while and what I found is that placement of the first guide about 15" to 20" from the reel keeps everything moving smoothly.  

The other thing that I like to do when toying with new configurations is once the reel seat and handle are complete attach the guides temporarily and try new locations.  Cast the rod, load up the rod, look at what the line is doing.  You may be surprised that while conventional wisdom still works there are alternatives that might work better for you.