With the recent posts of such beautifully crafted rods, it's pushing closer and closer to wanting to build rods. I have done my preliminary research, but still have a few questions such as:

1) Determining the Location of the reel seat - How is this done to ensure that the rod is balanced? I am asking for both casting and spinning rods.

2) How in the world do I know the right reel seat size? It seems that 16 and 17 are the most common. Any thoughts on the pros and cons of skeleton reel seats?

3)What are your choices of Epoxy for the guides and to install the reel seat?

I plan to build on a Lamiglas 7'2" XMG50 casting blank with alconite guides. I know it's going to be a first time build but I am going to take it slow.

Thanks!

I have built probably 5-6 rods, so I will put in my opinions, but their are more experienced builder that can probably offer more specific info.

1.  It is based mostly on personal feel, but in general a spinning rod butt length is about 10-12" from the butt, and a casting is 11-15" from the butt (to center of reel seat).  In general, crankbait, swimbait, and other long casting rods have longer butts; where flipping, pitching, and skipping rods have shorter butts.  I fish from a kayak, so my rods have shorter butts.  If you want it to balance, I would tape everything on the blank (use masking tape arbors for the reel seat) and move the reel seat around until it feels good.  Just make sure it also is comfortable to fish (not too long or short)

2.  For casting (assuming a reel seat with an exposed blank), measure the blank diameter where the bottom of the reel seat will sit.  When in between, round down because you can ream the seat a bit.  If you are ordering the blank and reel seat from the same place at the same time, have the company measure it for you.  Just tell them how far from the butt you want it to sit (remember to take your butt cap into account).  Most retailers will have no problems doing this for you.  For spinning, usually use between a 16 and 18 depending on what size is offered by the company and which reel (larger reel, larger seat)

3.  For epoxy, I use PC-7 or PC-11 two part epoxy.  Most people use Rod Bond, which I think has similar properties.  The important part is to use a foam reel seat arbors becuase a pile of epoxy under a reel seat can be very heavy and masking tape can rot over time.

These suggestions apply to bass rods, and heavier rods will have different parameter.

I have a XMG spinning rod and like it very much, and I use all alconites, so I think you will be happy with those choices.  The important thing is to keep the first rod simple and take your time with it, and everything will come out ok.

1)      My opinion on handle location, is where I like it ;D , I have built only spinning rods, so what I do is place the reel seat on my blank and I handle the rod like as if im operating a bait/lure thru the water and move the seat up or back to find my comfort. I like a rod thats tip heavy for worming, example

2)      so far I have loved the skeleton seats, you know this stuff only comes if you try one in a build, some don"t like them and if I would have went by what they say, then of course I wouldn"t have never tried one. if it interest me and after I read up on a product and it makes sense, I try it.I still ask alot of questions here and there on blanks more than hardware. so yea, I think they are a first choice on my spinning rods, I usually stay at 16mm, I like the small grip, its less fatigue for me. I"ve used arbors, but tend to use the fiber tape in drywalling more often.

3)      I use all Flex Coat products myself, its not broke for me, so no need to fix it.

Now the other guys that have customers will have a different tone to this.

One other thing is your first build, I'd recommend a mudhole blank to build first.

Thanks for your responses! I might buy a mud hole blank for practice on second thought. Since the Lamiglas HQ is a mere 2 hours away, I think I'll drive down to say hello and get the blank that way.