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Jackplate ???


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The main purpose of a jack plate, is to aid in the correct set up of the the motor to the boat.  You can raise the motor or lower it to get the best performance from the motor.

It also moves the motor farther back away from the transom which helps the motor have cleaner water to run in. There is a little less cavitation which helps the prop to "hook up" better. (Less prop Slip)

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As mentioned:

lets you dial in motor height

Gets the motor back in clean water, away from pad turbulance

It also helps the motor/prop lift the bow.

All this boils down to, if you want optimal performance from your boat, a jack plate is a must, doesn't matter what boat.

Before running out and buying one, you need to do your homework. Too little offset and you don't gain the full advantage. Too much offset and the you will have problems with porposing and place more strain on transome. Addtional stress cracks are probably gonna show up in you gel coat when you add one. Check with the hull manufactor also about the warrenty and how much offset they will allow.

Another offshoot from adding a jackplate, you will probably want to try different props, they are not all created equal. I've seen almost 10 mph increases on stock bass boats just by tweeking the setup with the right jackplate and prop combination.

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Just remember, when you start trying to get that extra 1 - 2 mph out of it, it can be a battle.   First the jack plate and getting it tweaked for the prop you have, then trying different props and tweaking for each of those because they will all setup different.

To save you a lot of hassle, check with dealer and see what's allowed on your hull so you don't void the warrenty.  Then check with Rich Boger and see what size jackplate and prop he would recommend and let him build you a prop.  That will give you the most bang for the buck and will save you counless hours of experimenting, and will actually save you money in the long run, but you will doubt that to start with when you get his price.

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That should get you better than you have but most likely, they are only going with their standard setup and an out of the box prop.

There is no prop that comes straight out of the box that going to match the perfomance a prop tuned for your boat. There are a number of guys that tune props but Boger is about the best when it comes to these bass boats. He has also tested enough different props on different boats the can just about tell to the 1/4" what engine height to run, what's the best setback and which prop will work best after he tunes it.

The prop is the one thing that connects the power to the water and that's the one thing most people neglect or don't want to spend the money for, yet makes the biggest difference in performance.

My boat gained eight mph (74 - 82 mph) just by having a 26" Raker tuned for it.  Now this is a very modified motor.   A friends Stratos 201 with an engine I built (modified) for it went from 74 - 80 mph when he finaly got him to get a prop tuned for his.

Now, these are high horse power modified motors that needed a custom prop to help hook that power to the water so you won't see these kind of gains.  With everything else set, a 2 - 3 mph top end gain is common for stock motor and boats with a improved hole shot.

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Thanks for the info Ben.

After reading your post I'm not sure I need a jackplate.

My hole shot is good and I'm running about 62mph

which is plenty fast enough for me.

I plan on buying a different boat in a couple years, so the expense may not be worth the gain.  

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Didn't mean to talk you out of the plate, was just saying once you add the plate and get everything else setup with a stock prop, a tuned prop would probably add another 2 - 3 mph.  

I wouldn't run a bass boat without a jackplate, most boats benefit greatly from one.  Talk to your dealer and see what he has to say about the pro's and con's of adding one on your hull.   See if you can install a 6" one on your hull without having to change steering cables.  If you can, I would  start shopping for a good used one.  

You can find good used 6" Detwilers, Slide Masters and a couple of other good brands for $150, sometimes even less.  

The next question would have to be what rpm are you turning now?  You will probably gain a couple of hundred rpm  when you add a plate.  When the weather and water starts cooling off you will also gain two - three hundred rpm.   Do you have room with the prop you have to gain 400 - 500 rpm this winter without going too far over redline?  A couple of hundred over's not going to hurt but 400 - 500 is a bit much.  With a jackplate dialed in, late in the fall and a light load,  you may bumb that 70 mph you were wanting

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If your dealer says you can go back six inches without having to change steering cables, I would start shopping about for a good used Detwiler or similar make.

You realy need to do something to get your rpm up.  With your normal load you should be turning at least 600 rpm more than you're turning, 4,800 WOT is killing the performance of that boat.  Right now, you are one - two prop sizes too big on pitch. You might think it's ok, until you get in one like yours that's set up properly and turning about 1,000 more rpm.  Are you sure the Max factory recommended rpm is only 5,500, I would think it would be a little more than that.

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You realy need to do something to get your rpm up. With your normal load you should be turning at least 600 rpm more than you're turning, 4,800 WOT is killing the performance of that boat. Right now, you are one - two prop sizes too big on pitch. You might think it's ok, until you get in one like yours that's set up properly and turning about 1,000 more rpm. Are you sure the Max factory recommended rpm is only 5,500, I would think it would be a little more than that.

Ben, I'm not positive about the rpm's.

I'll know a lot more tomorrow, I'm going to the dealership where I bought the boat, one of the salesmen said he would give me some tips on a lake that I'm going to fish this weekend.

I've got several questions to ask them about the performance on my boat.

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Ben,

I paid better attention to my tach yesterday, and I'm actually turning about 5200 rpm at full throttle with the motor trimmed up a little over half on my trim gauge.

I talked to the guys where I bought my boat on  Friday and I forgot to ask what the max rpm was.

Heres what I'm running.

2000 Triton tr-186 with a 150 johnson 3 blade SS raker prop. Not sure of the pitch.  

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I've never messed with the 60 degree motors so I don't know, I thought it was about 5,800.   If it's a raker, it will have the size where the washer is under the nut.  You might be able to read it without taking the nut and washer off.  What ever  it is, if your boat was not loaded for bear, the next size smaller would be better. For some reason people get hung up on thinking it they are running a bigger prop, it makes them think they can run faster, or makes them feel like they are running a big motor.

I just can't get used to turning motors that slow.  Two stroke motors just always last longer and perform better when proped to turn at/near their max recommend rpm.  I could easily turn a 28" raker and probably a 30" but I run a 26".  

If that's with you buy yourself, what does it do with two people, full tank of gas, and gear?  With two big people 40 gal's of gas a ton of gear and center livewell full, my boat litterly launches out of the hole.

If you decide to try a jackplate, I think a 6" would help you.  You have more than enough room for the gains in rpm it and winter will give.

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Ben, that was with my son(135#) , wife(112#), and myself(210#).

1/2 tank of gas and all of my gear plus a medium sized ice chest.

Verified those numbers this evening, wide open motor trimmed as slightly over half on the trim gauge. 5200 rpm.

I'm going to call Nichols tomorrow and find out what the max rpm is supposed to be.

Thanks for all the info, and I may be keeping this boat longer than I planned!!! so jackplate and hotfoot for Christmas!!! maybe a new prop too!!

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Wouldn't be too quick on another prop.  Get your jackplate on and motor dialed in with it.  Raker is a good prop, it's just a crapshoot if you get a good one out of the box or not.  In the hands of the right prop guy though, they are good props.

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