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NHBull

Rod, Real, advise needed

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Howdy Folks,

My OCD is kicking in and I am trying to sort out all my equipment needs for the Spring.

I have a Med/Xfast spin caster that I have used for all finesse baits

And, a MH/fast spin caster that I have used for everything else.....both have 10lb braid and I vary the leader.

I am looking to buy 2 baitcasters and want to call it quits.  I am thinking a M/M for all crankbait, but don't what year ratio to get

Also thinking about another MH/F baitcaster.

Given I mostly use finesse and soft plastics, crankbait, jigs, small surface baits (3/4 Oz) and Chatter baits,  what is the best way to maximize 4 setups, 2 of which are spinning......gear ratios would also help.

Apologies in advance

Thanks,

Al

 

 

 

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What's your budget? I am partial To st croix and gloomis rods and shimano or daiwa reels. 6.1 and 6.3 are good all around bait caster ratios to do a variety of techniques. 

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This is easy. Let's start with 2 bait casters.  Choose a rod around 6'8 to 7'3 in a medium power moderate action. You never mentioned your budget so here are a few examples.  Rods that work for this can be as inexpensive as a Berkley 6'6" Lightning Rod Shock ($50 or less). Next level up a rod like a Dobyns Fury FR 705CB.($110), or a Powell Max3D 6104 or 705, Another great option is an Irod Genesis II Gabes Rip Rap Special. Lastly look at a Falcon Bucoo Micro Trap Caster.  All of these run around $130 to $160.  Pair this up with a work horse of a reel like a Daiwa Tatula or Tatula CT in a 6.3 to one ratio. This rod can handle any small to mid depth diving crankbait, square bills, almost any treble hook bait as well as many of the reaction style baits like spinnerbaits and chatterbaits. Depending on which one you choose it can also handle a little topwater action also.

The second baitcaster can either be a 7 to 7'4 medium heavy fast action rod which rate 1/4 to 3/4 or perhaps one that is a bit stouter and could go 1/4 to 1 1/4,  This rod will handle all bottom techniques like worms, creature baits, etc. either carolina rigged or texas rigged, as well as jigs and other baits that crawl, hop, or jump. If you choose the bit heavier rod it can also handle heavy spoons fished in deeper water.. Consider rods like a Dobyns FR704C  or an Irod IRG 704C. Match this up again with a Tatula but this time more like a 7.3 to 1 gear ratio. You will be moving the bait more with the rod than the reel but you will be able to reel inquicker to fire out another cast or catch up with a fish that runs straight at you.

Now spinning rod. It is best to have a rod that can throw really light baits. If you are not fishing the Z Man TRD Ned rigs you need to be. It uses a mushroom head jig that only weighs 1/8 of an ounce or most often 1/10, 1/15 really light and the body looks like a 2 inch Senco.  The rod needs to be able to cast such light baits so  maybe a 6'6 to 7 foot ML XT with a lure rating of 1/16 to 5/13 or 3/8. I would also throw drop shots, grubs on jig heads,and unweighted worms or Senco type baits on this.

If your first spinning rod is a true medium and it covers the 1/8 to 1/2  ounce baits it would fit my next category. That would be a rod fitting those specs and I would use it to throw all of my light texas rigs, say 4 to 6 inch worms, creature baits,craws etc with a 1/8 to 3/8 worm weights. I would throw tubes and baits like Silver Buddies, vertical blade baits on here as well. Any texas rigged plastic heavier than 3/8 I would be using the baitcaster most likely or your heavier spinning rod.  I lie your spinning gear setup with braid. I have come to use Berkley Original Fireline in 14 pound test (same as 6 pound mono in size) along with a 4 foot leader made up of P Line CXX in 10# moss green. That stuff breaks around 22 pounds. P LIne Halo works well for leaders if you choose 6 or 8 pound test Halo. 

That is my 4rod  (or in your case 5 rod ) arsenal, as I would suggest you build it. Now as I said you asked for suggestions or advice without actually giving a budget for each. I gave some suggestions on rods and reels. They are all great rods and reels. I personally use them myself for the exact purpose I gave you, Obviously a company like Dobyns has the Fury series for $110 but if your budget is above that than look at the same rods in their higher series. I love their Sierra and Champion XP series so if you want to spend $150 to $300 on a rod look at them. I related retail prices but often these rods can be found cheaper with a little online snooping. As for a baitcasting recommendation. I really do not advise buying cheap reels with the intention of upgrading. These Daiwa reels are workhorses and when I say that I mean they will cast well, be easy to adjust, have very good drag systems and will hold up over a long time of use. To me it is not worth buying a reel with lesser qualities.  I do not recommend the really high priced reels for someone starting out new to this equipment. The very best bang for the budk today is in the $100 to $200 retail price reels. Again I compare the reels at their retail price so a Tatula that retails for $150 is a great deal when you find it for $100 shipped.

I hope I put it into some categories that make sense to you and some ideas of the equipment that will fulfill those needs. Good Luck and let us know what you think. I am sure others will have their opinions too  

 

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Appreciate the advice

My gear is Lews and shimano and don't mind spending a little extra to get gear that will last

 

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@fishnkamp, what gear ratios would you use for the deep MH and Crank M/M.

Also open to suggestions on line.  Baitcasters will be new to me, but given I can go daily in the Summer, I suspect I will pick it up fast.

Side note....I tried a cameras and really liked it

 

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I'm not fishnkamp, but a 5 something ratio is usually considered the first choice for deep diving crankbaits.

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My casting crankbait rig is a 6'6 med/mod lightning shock rod and a pflueger trion reelnin 6.3:1.

The reel was like $35 at walmart but I honestly prefer it over my lews LFS.

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My next cheap rod will be an Ethos from Academy.  I would recommend one of those on clearance online for $50.  A 7'MH for deep cranking on a 5:something reel.  I looked them over last night and was shocked how light and balanced they were.  

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2 hours ago, MBB Nate said:

My casting crankbait rig is a 6'6 med/mod lightning shock rod and a pflueger trion reelnin 6.3:1.

The reel was like $35 at walmart but I honestly prefer it over my lews LFS.

My Trion is on a 6'10" HF and is a casting machine.  Not light.  Not pretty.  But gets the job done.  Mine was $50 used (an older model).  You got a good deal.

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25 minutes ago, new2BC4bass said:

My Trion is on a 6'10" HF and is a casting machine.  Not light.  Not pretty.  But gets the job done.  Mine was $50 used (an older model).  You got a good deal.

Mine is a casting monster.  It's not the smoothest reeling reel, but it's a reliable workhorse so far.

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Choose a rod around 6'8 to 7'3 in a medium power moderate action.  Pair this up with a work horse of a reel like a Daiwa Tatula or Tatula CT in a 6.3 to one ratio.   This is for shallow to mid depth cranks.   If you are thinking about a rod for big deep cranks look at something like this from Irod. I would pair it up with a reel that is between 5 to 11 up to 5.4 to one.

IRG7113CC “Fred’s Crank Launcher”

Fred designed this rod for deep diving cranks but will work with mid divers and larger shallow divers. Not your usual crank rod, this rod is all graphite and is not whippy and soft like others. It’s tip is strong enough to drive in a hook set yet forgiving enough to play the fish without ripping out the hooks. It will also cast any crank bait a country mile which is needed to get the big cranks down deep.

Length:7’11″

Lure weight:3/8-1 1/2

Line weight:8-20

Power: Med. Heavy

Action:Moderate

 

If you are speaking about your medium heavy  for bottom contact baits I would go between 6.3 and 7.3

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