Got tired of looking for threads on this, so i figured Id just more than likely be redundant and bring this topic up. What experiences have you guys had with chine walk and the influence a hydrofoil had on it. I have heard or read all the info on shifting weight and tweeking the motor set-up to remedy this, but I know the hydrofoil gives you better bow control, but what can it do if anything for chine walking. I have a pretty light 20ft tidecraft w/ a 200 optimax that gets real squirrelly at around 70mph. Tell me the good the bad and the ugly

The right motor height and the right foil, the foil will have no affect on it because it won't be touching the water. I've run the SE Sport 300 on my hotrod motors for several years and I never know it's back there except for when coming out of the hole. I would start chine walking at approx 72 mph, with and without the foil.

If you have it down low enough for the hydrofoil to be in the water when running WOT, it's going to slow you down and I'm not sure what kind of handling quirks you might get into.

Chine walk is just a matter of learning to drive the boat, compensating for the walk before it starts. Once it starts, it's usually too late when you are first learning and don't think you're gonna just hang on and drive through it, that can be a serious mistake.

First things first when dealing with it. Make sure there is no slack in the steering wheel, not even a little bit. When the wheel moves, the motor moves. Make sure the motor mounts a nice and firm. I've seen top mounts that were more like sponges than firm rubber. If the steering has slack or mounts are sloppy, the motor can dance back and forth causing it to walk and there's nothing you can do that will control that.

Next would be the motor height, the more of the lower unit buried in the water, the more apt it is to walk.

Three blade props have a tendency to want walk more so than four blade props.

Once everything is setup properly, you just need to learn to zig when the boats is about to zag and zag when the boat is about to zig. Learn the feel of the boat and only make micro corrections on the wheel to control this, don't saw on it. Pretty soon you will get the rythem.

Since chinewalk is caused by the boat wanting to fall off the pad to one side, start by not having the motor fully trimed up. When at WOT start bumping the trim up until just start to feel it want to walk. Keep it right there and play with making your corrections. The tendency to walk will be much slower and you can learn to feel and correct for it. Get the hang of that and bump the trim up a little more and learn to feel and correct those. As you go up with the trim, the corrections will come quicker and qucker. Before you know it, it will be automatic.

As W2S said, if you're chine walking you're up on pad and the foil would be out of the water anyway.  Moot point.

Just bought the boat and have only driven it 3xs. My last boat had a top end of around 65 mph and wouldnt walk anyway...but I always had the stabilizer on it. Thanks for the info.