I've got a 2000 Johnson Ocean Pro 90 that is on a bass boat I just bought a couple of weeks ago.  The no oil light keeps coming on and off on the tach.  The motor seems to be getting oil as it runs fine and no alarms go off.  The reservoir is in the boat and is 3/4 full.  Anybody ever have a problem like this?  I was thinking of disconnecting the oil injection but since a Johnson has a VRO oil pump I'm told it is a little more involved than just plugging the lines.  Any suggestions appreciated.  

Which one is coming on, the one for the tank, or the one for the pump. It's rather common for the tank sensor to screw up and give false indications of no oil in the tank. That's just a motor of replacing the sensor in the tank provided it's not a wiring problem. If it's the sensor in the pump, there is nothing you can do to fix that orther than making sure all the lines are sealing properly.

I looked for my ficht manual to make sure but I think the tank is a LOW OIL warning and the pump is a NO OIL warning. If the pump is it and you don't mind premixing all you have to do is unplug the two wire connector on the motor going to the tank and unplug the five pin connector going to the pump so they don't make the alarm sound and lwarning lights come on. If you have a lot of oil in the tank, you might want to dump that out or take the hose loose at the motor and cap it off. That's all there is to doing away with oil injection on your Johnson. If you leave the oil in the tank and premix, it's giong to double oil until it pulls all the oil out of the tank. Unplugging all those wires does not keep it from still pumping oil. Once the tank is empty it hurts absolutely nothing to let it run dry. The oil side of the pump is totally independent from the fuel side of the pump so if it's not pump oil, the fuel side could care less.

Now, they do make a fuel only pump you can buy for about $175 and replace yours, or a new CRO pump like on yours cost in the neighborhood of $300 if they are not up to $400 by now.

You can do like I do and do away with all that crap.  For less than $100 you can install an electric pump and relay so when you turn the key on, the fuel pump comes on.  No more of this primer bulb crap and trying to get enough primer fuel in a cold motor to get it started.  Turn the key on, push it in for a few seconds and go to crank,  the motors starts just as good as any DFI motor.

One other thing you might check, take the tank out and dump it, I've seen bunches of those things have enough water in them the motor would be getting water instead of oil.

I would check all connections and everything else I could check before ruling the pump bad. In 99 they updated those things, changed them from a VRO (variable ratio oil) to a CRO (constant ratio oil) and those newer units have been almost bullet prof. Anything can go bad, but I would be sure to check everything else first.

Thanks for your reply.    

I think I'll try dumping the oil out of the tank which is over 3/4's full and was full when I got it.  I've run about six gallons of gas through the motor so it would appear it is pumping oil.  I'm hoping you're right and there is water on the bottom of the oil tank.  

I've had a few people tell me to disconnect the oil injection and just mix it in the fuel but since you're telling me the CRO Pump is close to bullet proof I think I'd like to keep it.  By the way this 15 foot Bass Stream is doing 57 mph @ 5800 rpm turning a 13 x 21 prop and that's hauling my 260# fat butt and gear around.  ;D