I have a 86 evenrude. With muffs hooked up it runs fine. In the water it starts great I can run it up and down the lake but when you go the shift from neutral to Forward it does it like you have to trick it to go. It idles good but when you put the warm up stick down and shift to forward it want to die. Any advice? 

Ps. It's a 115 HP

I'd bet your carbs need to be adjusted. If it they were messed with while on the muffs it will idle good and rev fine in the driveway and when first starting on the water but after a run where the motor heats up to running temps, the air/fuel mix will be too lean and it will bog down, sputter and die. I had this problem on my 83 Johnson. I took my mechanic out on the water with me and showed him what was happening, he fixed it with a screwdriver for a 30 pack and the days fishing trip.  It smokes more while on the muffs now but never misses a beat on the water.

Ok thanks 

Read the post I made in this topic; Evinrude 150XP

Most all will apply to your motor as well, the 150 just has two more cylinders.

Ok I have maybe found the problem just want input. when I tram my motor down it does not have the pin that stops it at a certain point. on my poontoon and other boat I have seen a pin in one of the 5 or 6 holes where the motor teams down. Is it possible they my motor is tramed to far down In the water. Reason I am asking is yesterday I tramed it up to the 1st hole under the motor and it seemed to run better and did not die when Putin it in gear after the warm up lever was put down. I am taken it out tomorrow again and hope it is fixed. Any input is greatly appreciated. thanks 

The motor should be trimmed so it's sitting vertical in the water with the anti-cavitation plate level with the surface of the water. (It's still several inches underwater, just sitting level) That's where it should idle best if it's going to idle.  When it's in that position the carbs a level and the floats are not being held out of position.

 

If the motor is stalling after a couple of minutes warmup and the fast idle lever is down, you have a problem.

Now, what that problem is has to be determined.  Most of the time, it's the linkage and carbs are out of synchronization and needs what's referred to as a link and sync done. 

It could be it's just idled too low, the motor should idle somewhere between 650 and 750 rpm in gear.  That's in the water, not on the hose.  Please note, the idle is adjusted by the timing adjustment, not by the linkage and stop screw.  Trying to adjust it with the linkage throws the synchronization off. 

It could also be dirty or improperly adjusted carbs.

There are a number of other things, vacuum leaks, bad recirculation valves, a bad reed valve etc, but these are problems that require professional troubleshooting.  Even the link and sync requires a certain level of knowledge and expertise to perform to get it right. 

1 hour ago, Way2slow said:

The motor should be trimmed so it's sitting vertical in the water with the anti-cavitation plate level with the surface of the water. (It's still several inches underwater, just sitting level) That's where it should idle best if it's going to idle.  When it's in that position the carbs a level and the floats are not being held out of position.

 

If the motor is stalling after a couple of minutes warmup and the fast idle lever is down, you have a problem.

Now, what that problem is has to be determined.  Most of the time, it's the linkage and carbs are out of synchronization and needs what's referred to as a link and sync done. 

It could be it's just idled too low, the motor should idle somewhere between 650 and 750 rpm in gear.  That's in the water, not on the hose.  Please note, the idle is adjusted by the timing adjustment, not by the linkage and stop screw.  Trying to adjust it with the linkage throws the synchronization off. 

It could also be dirty or improperly adjusted carbs.

There are a number of other things, vacuum leaks, bad recirculation valves, a bad reed valve etc, but these are problems that require professional troubleshooting.  Even the link and sync requires a certain level of knowledge and expertise to perform to get it right. 

Thanks for the info. The motor does idle well it was just putting it in gear it would died but after several trys it would go and run good. But yesterday when I played with the tram it did a lot better. I think the way I was traming it all the was down was getting everything out of level like you was talking about.