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schplurg

How Does This Bassyaks TM Mount Work?

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I've looked for a photo showing how it works and can't find anything.

 

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Specifically, where is the rest of the mount that comes with the motor - the hold down hardware? It appears to be buried inside the hull but I doubt that is the case.

 

Does this mounting plate come with a "sawed off" version of the actual motor mount built onto it? I see many photos of the mount but not how it works. I am going to make my own mount. 

 

Another photo on a Ride 115, same as my yak. I can only assume that the mount is to be removed from the motor and discarded and that this mount has its own altered version on it:

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Isn’t there a release lever that you press that allows the motor and shaft to tilt down? You loosen the shaft tension screw to let the shaft slide to the desired depth, and tighten it to hold the motor in the position in the picture 

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What I'm wondering is where is the part with the two hold-down butterfly bolts? They appear to be inside the boat hull, though I'm guessing that part is actually part of the mount and the bracket that came with the motor was removed. I hope that makes more sense.

 

Here is a link to the image - I am having trouble seeing it in this post.

1036485_family01.jpg

 

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There are many DIY versions of this on the interwebs, YouTube.

 

My version is similar, but I used store-bought stuff for the mount.

And I have easy access as I have a hybrid kayak (Native Ultimate).

 

The MinnKota mount is sawed off at the screw-on portion to make

it flat so you can then mount it to the metal plate you use to then

attach to the hull. You'll want to create a hole somewhere to get 

access to those drilled holes so you can secure it well with stainless

bolts and washers.

 

I did saw off a bit of the motor shaft to keep the profile down. And 

I also bought a pulse width controller from these folks:

 

https://www.wirelesstrollingpro.com

 

Which allows the trolling motor to have "infinite" forward and rev

as opposed to the standard 5 forward speeds and 3 reverse. You

only need to use the Red and Black wires from the trolling motor

head to make it work. Which is a lot easier than using the control

unit from within the TM head.

 

Appears the company is retooling or something but they say they

are still in business....

 

While this YouTuber (Aksman) wasn't around when I did my setup,

he's got a lot of vids on the topic you can peruse through that may

be of help.

 

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnl__DThu7j5W32-_8BFzkw/videos

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3 hours ago, Darren. said:

There are many DIY versions of this on the interwebs, YouTube.

 

My version is similar, but I used store-bought stuff for the mount.

And I have easy access as I have a hybrid kayak (Native Ultimate).

 

The MinnKota mount is sawed off at the screw-on portion to make

it flat so you can then mount it to the metal plate you use to then

attach to the hull. You'll want to create a hole somewhere to get 

access to those drilled holes so you can secure it well with stainless

bolts and washers.

 

I did saw off a bit of the motor shaft to keep the profile down. And 

I also bought a pulse width controller from these folks:

 

https://www.wirelesstrollingpro.com

 

Which allows the trolling motor to have "infinite" forward and rev

as opposed to the standard 5 forward speeds and 3 reverse. You

only need to use the Red and Black wires from the trolling motor

head to make it work. Which is a lot easier than using the control

unit from within the TM head.

 

Appears the company is retooling or something but they say they

are still in business....

 

While this YouTuber (Aksman) wasn't around when I did my setup,

he's got a lot of vids on the topic you can peruse through that may

be of help.

 

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnl__DThu7j5W32-_8BFzkw/videos

 

Cool thanks. I plan on using a PWM too and design a foot controller for hands free use. 

 

So the mount part is sawed off okay thanks. Not sure how it's attached to the plate. I may go with a more "traditional" mount - well one that has a vertical piece for clamping the motor. Not sure yet. What I don't want are those 2x4 mounts that people stick in their rod holders. I want the motor in the back and I'd like a nice look. I've heard of people shortening the shaft, maybe I'll do that too.

 

Thanks guys for the replies.

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2 hours ago, schplurg said:

 

Cool thanks. I plan on using a PWM too and design a foot controller for hands free use. 

 

So the mount part is sawed off okay thanks. Not sure how it's attached to the plate. I may go with a more "traditional" mount - well one that has a vertical piece for clamping the motor. Not sure yet. What I don't want are those 2x4 mounts that people stick in their rod holders. I want the motor in the back and I'd like a nice look. I've heard of people shortening the shaft, maybe I'll do that too.

 

Thanks guys for the replies.

I attached it to the plate with stainless bolts as you can see

below. There are the two that secure the front of the plate,

then the first in the middle (below the bar code) also goes

thru securing the mount to the plate into the hull, the final

bolt comes up thru the plate and thru the mount. 

 

Never had an issue with wobble, or even bumping into stuff,

or getting hung up on logs. She's as secure today as when 

I first did it many years ago.

 

Bought the plate at a local TruValue. Have since had to grind

some rust off it (salt water issue), and spray it with some

Rustoleum.

 

large.17cd565f74e3668dcde9e22d69c3eb2b.jpg.44b91181db71d2cf6daa3f25dc398644.jpg

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Aha! Great photo! Thank you very much for providing that. So you just hack off part of the mount then. Can do!

 

Can the motor be easily removed for storage or transport? Maybe it doesn't need to be.

 

Thank you!

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1 minute ago, schplurg said:

Aha! Great photo! Thank you very much for providing that. So you just hack off part of the mount then. Can do!

 

Can the motor be easily removed for storage or transport? Maybe it doesn't need to be.

 

Thank you!

Yes to hacking off the part. I didn't do a great job as I didn't/don't have 

a band saw - which would have made it look better.

 

And yes to motor removal. I cobbled together a "pivot mount" for my setup,

see image below. FWIW, the steering arms have been modified from what 

I did in the pic below. Here I drilled through and used the buckles, but I have

since modded to use Aksman's method with shorter arms (more sensitive 

steering).

 

large.4cbf9bafb33530aa14ecaa9624743075.jpg.3b6f763e1e856c2343a31075a1974145.jpg

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Very cool! 

 

A few more questions if you don't mind ;)

 

When you're not using the motor do you find it easy enough to paddle with the foot pedals loose? Can they be locked into place?

 

Any battery recommendations? I'm not made of money - seems like 100ah would be the way to go if I can afford it. The again that may be more than I need. I'd like to spend all day on the water, maybe move higher speed from the ramp to the fishing areas, and use the motor sparingly or slowly while I fish.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K898AT6/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=A33N703ELCFX8U&psc=1

 

This one is 55ah which may be enough. Not sure it's the best type of battery or a good brand.

 

My plan right now is to control the motor/PWM with my feet. I can rig up a way to do that. I've seen that guys PWM setups and I can modify it with footpedals and switches or something. I think I want to put the battery in the front hatch for weight. My Ride 115 is setup to accept a rudder and controls easily enough.

 

I'm actually not sure I can reach the pedals well enough to steer though (I'm 5' 10"+) - they are at the maximum front position and if I move my seat too far forward I lose stand-up space. I don't stand much yet though, it seems shakier than I'd anticipated (first kayak, taken it out 3 days now). Shorter arms is a good idea and may help with any reach issues.

 

 Thank you very much for your help!

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11 hours ago, schplurg said:

Very cool! 

 

A few more questions if you don't mind ;)

 

When you're not using the motor do you find it easy enough to paddle with the foot pedals loose? Can they be locked into place?

  

Any battery recommendations? I'm not made of money - seems like 100ah would be the way to go if I can afford it. The again that may be more than I need. I'd like to spend all day on the water, maybe move higher speed from the ramp to the fishing areas, and use the motor sparingly or slowly while I fish.

  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K898AT6/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=A33N703ELCFX8U&psc=1

 

This one is 55ah which may be enough. Not sure it's the best type of battery or a good brand.

 

My plan right now is to control the motor/PWM with my feet. I can rig up a way to do that. I've seen that guys PWM setups and I can modify it with footpedals and switches or something. I think I want to put the battery in the front hatch for weight. My Ride 115 is setup to accept a rudder and controls easily enough.

 

I'm actually not sure I can reach the pedals well enough to steer though (I'm 5' 10"+) - they are at the maximum front position and if I move my seat too far forward I lose stand-up space. I don't stand much yet though, it seems shakier than I'd anticipated (first kayak, taken it out 3 days now). Shorter arms is a good idea and may help with any reach issues.

 

 Thank you very much for your help!

 

To your questions:

 

1) Yes, easy to paddle my setup, and no foot pedals do not lock into place. Have to remove locks in order to use as steerers.

 

2) Battery: For years I used a very heavy 80AH battery, but the weight was just too much in my yak to take in and remove after every trip. Was a pain. I ended up buying a sealed 35AH wheelchair type battery which weighs 26lbs, I think. I've never once run out of juice on the water, and that's with towing another kayak to a location often. 3-4 hours on water is usually my max. LiON would be best for weight but they break the bank for me.

 

3) For foot pedal distance, you can shorten the steering cable reach to bring the pedals closer to you. However, that may limit your steering angles. I actually moved my steering tracks a few inches closer to me in my yak (I'm around 5'7"), and I also shortened the steering arms on the motor itself which allows less foot movement for steering.

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On 7/1/2019 at 8:31 AM, Darren. said:

 

To your questions:

 

1) Yes, easy to paddle my setup, and no foot pedals do not lock into place. Have to remove locks in order to use as steerers.

 

2) Battery: For years I used a very heavy 80AH battery, but the weight was just too much in my yak to take in and remove after every trip. Was a pain. I ended up buying a sealed 35AH wheelchair type battery which weighs 26lbs, I think. I've never once run out of juice on the water, and that's with towing another kayak to a location often. 3-4 hours on water is usually my max. LiON would be best for weight but they break the bank for me.

 

3) For foot pedal distance, you can shorten the steering cable reach to bring the pedals closer to you. However, that may limit your steering angles. I actually moved my steering tracks a few inches closer to me in my yak (I'm around 5'7"), and I also shortened the steering arms on the motor itself which allows less foot movement for steering.

 

That all makes sense. Thank you so much for all the help. I'm thinking I could go with a 35ah. 55 probably max. Like you said you gotta lift it :( Good point.

 

I see how the footpedals could be moved closer. Maybe when I buy the aluminum slider gizmo I could just mount it closer.

 

Awesome!!!

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