*I thought it would be useful to see what folks here are using currently this season  for a shaky head main line ?

Along the same theme - here is a fairly technical exert on shaky head main line by: "jonnyblazex" (below) - interested to see what shaky head users think ?

Also it doesn't have to be just a braid vs. FC mainline debate - there may be those killing it with a co-poly main line for shaky head  :

 

"I use Seaguar Tatsu fluorocarbon line in 8lb test, 6lb diameter.  If you want the best fluoro, this is it.  The stuff casts perfect, knot strength is perfect, stretch is little, and perfect, not stiff.  Best fluoro ever.  I used to use braid, but fluoro provides so much slack line sensitivity it is unreal.  You cant really work the shaky head the same with braid/fluoro leader as you can straight high quality fluoro.  Braid requires tight line for the best sensitivity, where fluoro is sensitive even at slack, where you work shaky heads correctly, on slack line while you are shaking the worm.  Braid also floats at the top, down to the worm with a bow if left on slack line, if you can imagine it, and fluoro goes at a diagonal line to the worm because it sinks.  They are two different presentations, but if you are dragging the shaky head on a tight line, the braid will be more sensitive.  If you are shaking the shaky head, or hopping and dead sticking it, fluoro will be more sensitive.  I spent almost 600 dollars on my shaky head setup, so I am serious about it, and like the technique a lot.  I love to feel the bite, and slam the hook down.  I use a G Loomis NRX rod with Shimano Stradic Ci4+ 2500 reel, and seaguar Tatsu 8lb line.  Best shaky head setup ever IMO".

Main setup: Sufix 832 10# main line to an 8# leader of Tatsu fluoro.

 

As for johnnyblazex, whoever that is - LOL; yes and no. I don't necessarily agree with him on "where you work shaky heads correctly," so naturally different line choices will play into different scenarios and not necessarily fall in line with his thoughts.

 

Slack line sensitivity - yes, fluoro

tightline sensitivity - yes, braid

...but I rarely 'drag' and rarely 'shake', so my presentation style doesn't fit with either of his two scenarios.

braid vs. fluoro sinking and straightline - it depends on the diameters in question...not as dramatic in most cases as he suggests.

 

I do sometimes use straight fluoro for shaky heads and could see where it might be a better option, but I also can see where braid would have advantages including some not mentioned like hooksetting, especially at long distances. Think you could get by with either just fine depending on how you fish.

 

 

30 minutes ago, Team9nine said:

Main setup: Sufix 832 10# main line to an 8# leader of Tatsu fluoro.

 

As for johnnyblazex, whoever that is - LOL; yes and no. I don't necessarily agree with him on "where you work shaky heads correctly," so naturally different line choices will play into different scenarios and not necessarily fall in line with his thoughts.

 

Slack line sensitivity - yes, fluoro

tightline sensitivity - yes, braid

...but I rarely 'drag' and rarely 'shake', so my presentation style doesn't fit with either of his two scenarios.

braid vs. fluoro sinking and straightline - it depends on the diameters in question...not as dramatic in most cases as he suggests.

 

I do sometimes use straight fluoro for shaky heads and could see where it might be a better option, but I also can see where braid would have advantages including some not mentioned like hooksetting, especially at long distances. Think you could get by with either just fine depending on how you fish.

 

 

Good reply (as always) Team9nine : If you are  not dragging and you are  not shaking - then you are either hopping , swimming or dead sticking (sounds like a Ned Rig post - lol !) ... *johnnyblazex is / was a member here (has been MIA for a couple of years...) I remain "clinically goofy" using FC main line on a spinning reel ... Will wait for a TW sale to bite the bullet and try Tatsu #8 lb. FC as a main line to see if there is a benefit over  braid + FC leader or a decent co-poly main line .

My style is 15lb braid to 10 red label FC on spinning set ups. With casting gear I use 30lb braid to 12lb red label FC. Some lakes I fish I get a little deeper into to cover so I bump up to the heavier line.