High Temp Silicone for Mold Modification

The aim of this project was to eliminate the cone at the end of the collar to free up space on the hook shank for hackle. Also, since I fish these Poison Tails through rocks, mainly, I don't bother with a weedguard . That hole can be filled.

Auto Zone carries the silicone. The small cup holds a small amount of dish detergent. Save the fork from your deli lunch. Cut a tine off. Cut a strip from a plastic card and shape to fit. This will serve as a dam. Before you use the "dam" tool or the tine tool, dip in the detergent and wipe off excess on a paper towel. You want only a thin film to prevent the tools from sticking to the silicone.

After curing for 24 hours the silicone is ready to be trimmed flush. You may only need the single edge razor blades, but it won't hurt to keep a cut down acid brush, fine point tweezers and an X-acto knife handy.

Laying the blade as flat as possible, cut the silicone slowly using a sawing motion. The blade dulls quickly. Replace it to avoid frustration and the use of strong language.

You must use Drop Out if you're casting an alloy with bismuth in it. For the first pour, I made a couple dozen using 88% bismuth/12% tin. (Set heat dial at 3.) Then I cast the same amount with pewter. (Heat at 7.5.) I'm sure the Drop Out eases the removal of this alloy too.

Now you're ready to pour.

I do a bit of filing on the top of the head even though the fish won't care.

After four dozen pours, the silicone is holding up fine.

If you want to go back to the original mold, stick the silicone with a bodkin or other pointed tool and lift. You'll be surprised how easily your mold becomes "unmodified." For any small bits left behind, proceed with tweezers, your X-acto knife and patience.